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  #11  
Old 01-13-2014, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkycosmos View Post
Does anyone know if the part quantity in the 'value line' is any lower than the standard single parts by BMW or are the just cheaper as they are sold in sets ?

I too am looking at doing some suspension refresh in the spring and have been eyeing those sets on real oem

Anti-roll bar end links front
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.8is Repair kit for anti-roll bar links

Anti-roll bar links rear
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.8is Repair kit for anti-roll bar links


Radius Rods
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.8is Service Kit, radius rod / Value Line


control arms
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.8is Service Kit for A-arm / Value Line


Thanks
Junkycosmos

4.8is 2005 @ 90k
I'm just doing my complete rear suspension at the moment and went with a complete Lemforder kit including the integral links, and wheel carrier ball joints.

I've also got the lower wishbone ('LOWER SWING PART') bushes on order and will be replacing them too.

My advice to you (take it or leave it of course!) is do it while you have it all broken down. You won't want to be getting under there again, taking it all apart to change a bad balljoint or bush just because you didn't change it out this time round
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Last edited by Isambard; 01-13-2014 at 09:03 AM.
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  #12  
Old 01-14-2014, 12:10 AM
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I bought Moog ball joints (which I have always know to be a good brand) off of Ebay a while back. However, I will tell you I was suspicious of them not being genuine. They were stamped MOOG in very plain letters, and the boxes were old and used looking. Seems like anyone could have stamped them like that and put them in old Moog boxes. I called Moog and they basically told me they were okay if they said Moog. That's all I could get out of them. Makes me think there might be a place for a good forum on identifying counterfeit parts.
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  #13  
Old 01-14-2014, 12:34 AM
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Isambard, what tool did you use to remove/install the ball joint?
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  #14  
Old 01-14-2014, 12:45 AM
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X5Cat, I've come across Moog ball joints/suspension parts on Amazon; perhaps you can do a comparison with the ones you have with the ones pictured there. For example I notice that Lemforder ball joints have a green color ring on the rubber base while Febi has blue color. Hopefully you can spot like similarities with Moog and ease your concern.
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  #15  
Old 01-14-2014, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Kristophe View Post
Isambard, what tool did you use to remove/install the ball joint?
I haven't yet as I'm still waiting on the lower wishbone bushes to arrive. Then I'm going to use my mates 20T press and press them out/in. Already tried with a bearing puller, not a chance-it's like they've grown in there!
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89 R32 Skyline various mods, running 442 BHP
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02 E46 M3 Supersprint Cats, Eibach Lowered, Thorney Motorsport Remap, running 368 BHP
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  #16  
Old 01-14-2014, 11:24 AM
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This is the tool you need if you want to leave the axle carrier on the car:

BMW Rear Axles Bush Removal Installer Tool E38 39 52 53 60 61 63 65 66 67 70 | eBay

Considering the ball joints are about 70 bucks and probably wont need to be done again for a while, its a pretty cheap investment to get the job done easier. When I start tackling my rebuild I probably will buy this and sell it when done.
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  #17  
Old 02-08-2014, 07:29 PM
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Isambard, how'd your rear ball joint R&R go?
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  #18  
Old 02-08-2014, 10:19 PM
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All done!

I got my mate who has an Engineering firm to swap them out. I was going to do it myself but I'd have to buy the press which would then collect dust for the next few years.. He had to turn up a few bushes to press the bushes and balljoint out so I'm glad I didn't go down the route of doing it myself as I don't have a lathe!

Not only am I glad I have replaced everything as it already looks and feels as it should, I'm also glad I did all this because I'm 99% sure I've found the cause of the noise I've had coming from the rear for a while.

I replaced the handbrake cables as I had to cut them in order to get them out of the wheel carriers. 13 years of salt, shite, and corrosion had prevented me from pulling them out of the carriers! I used WD40, oil penetrant, as well as rust inhibitor. Not a chance!

Anyhoo while I was setting the handbrake cables up and tried moving the disc to affirm the shoes were holding, the outer CV joint moved about 3-4mm but the axle stayed still. I tried the left side and it was perfect, no movement whatsoever. BINGO!

So, I'm pissed off that I have to get back under and change out the driveshaft, but I'm pleased I will have my motor back to it's proper running again-no slight drone from the rear right!

How are you getting on?
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Present:
01 X5 4.4i
07 Yam R1

Past:
89 R32 Skyline various mods, running 442 BHP
00 Merc CLK55 AMG
01 E39 M5 Haywood and Scott silencers
02 E46 M3 Supersprint Cats, Eibach Lowered, Thorney Motorsport Remap, running 368 BHP
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  #19  
Old 02-11-2014, 09:09 AM
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All I have left on my front end re build are the control arms and tie rod ends, which I have, just needing a free weekend to do it. I've previously changed the thrust arm bushings, ball joints, struts, strut mounts, and tie rod links. While my rear suspension seems OK I know with my mileage a rebuild should be on the to-do list. I'm thinking maybe a summer project.

The only "challenge" seemed to be the R&R of the rear ball joints. There is a fellow forum member that has offered his BMW tool for loan and I may inquire about that when the time comes.

I'm glad you've had success with your rear suspension rebuild. No doubt you can tell a big improvement on your X.
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  #20  
Old 02-11-2014, 11:16 AM
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Great advice, when it comes to the rear end, I would just remove the wheel carrier and lower swing arm, and REPLACE EVERYTHING. you don't want to do that job for another 75k-100k miles.

As well, order a set of handbrake cables as they almost certainly will be seized in place and needing to be cut out, parking brake shoes and hardware if you need them, and don't forget the 2 bushings on the lower swing arm piece that are pressed in and out. It may be a hefty bill but considering the weight and power that travels through our rear ends it is proper do do a full rebuild, esp knowing that many pieces may be rusted/seized in place.
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