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#11
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Quote:
I've also got the lower wishbone ('LOWER SWING PART') bushes on order and will be replacing them too. My advice to you (take it or leave it of course!) is do it while you have it all broken down. You won't want to be getting under there again, taking it all apart to change a bad balljoint or bush just because you didn't change it out this time round
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Present: 01 X5 4.4i 07 Yam R1 Past: 89 R32 Skyline various mods, running 442 BHP 00 Merc CLK55 AMG 01 E39 M5 Haywood and Scott silencers 02 E46 M3 Supersprint Cats, Eibach Lowered, Thorney Motorsport Remap, running 368 BHP
Last edited by Isambard; 01-13-2014 at 09:03 AM. |
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#12
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I bought Moog ball joints (which I have always know to be a good brand) off of Ebay a while back. However, I will tell you I was suspicious of them not being genuine. They were stamped MOOG in very plain letters, and the boxes were old and used looking. Seems like anyone could have stamped them like that and put them in old Moog boxes. I called Moog and they basically told me they were okay if they said Moog.
That's all I could get out of them. Makes me think there might be a place for a good forum on identifying counterfeit parts.
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2009 X5 3.0 2001 X5 4.4 - Sold |
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#13
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Isambard, what tool did you use to remove/install the ball joint?
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2001 3.0i * SOLD * Current 2010 E83 Alpine White |
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#14
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X5Cat, I've come across Moog ball joints/suspension parts on Amazon; perhaps you can do a comparison with the ones you have with the ones pictured there. For example I notice that Lemforder ball joints have a green color ring on the rubber base while Febi has blue color. Hopefully you can spot like similarities with Moog and ease your concern.
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2001 3.0i * SOLD * Current 2010 E83 Alpine White |
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#15
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I haven't yet as I'm still waiting on the lower wishbone bushes to arrive. Then I'm going to use my mates 20T press and press them out/in. Already tried with a bearing puller, not a chance-it's like they've grown in there!
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Present: 01 X5 4.4i 07 Yam R1 Past: 89 R32 Skyline various mods, running 442 BHP 00 Merc CLK55 AMG 01 E39 M5 Haywood and Scott silencers 02 E46 M3 Supersprint Cats, Eibach Lowered, Thorney Motorsport Remap, running 368 BHP
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#16
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This is the tool you need if you want to leave the axle carrier on the car:
BMW Rear Axles Bush Removal Installer Tool E38 39 52 53 60 61 63 65 66 67 70 | eBay Considering the ball joints are about 70 bucks and probably wont need to be done again for a while, its a pretty cheap investment to get the job done easier. When I start tackling my rebuild I probably will buy this and sell it when done.
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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#17
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Isambard, how'd your rear ball joint R&R go?
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2001 3.0i * SOLD * Current 2010 E83 Alpine White |
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#18
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All done!
I got my mate who has an Engineering firm to swap them out. I was going to do it myself but I'd have to buy the press which would then collect dust for the next few years.. He had to turn up a few bushes to press the bushes and balljoint out so I'm glad I didn't go down the route of doing it myself as I don't have a lathe! Not only am I glad I have replaced everything as it already looks and feels as it should, I'm also glad I did all this because I'm 99% sure I've found the cause of the noise I've had coming from the rear for a while. I replaced the handbrake cables as I had to cut them in order to get them out of the wheel carriers. 13 years of salt, shite, and corrosion had prevented me from pulling them out of the carriers! I used WD40, oil penetrant, as well as rust inhibitor. Not a chance! Anyhoo while I was setting the handbrake cables up and tried moving the disc to affirm the shoes were holding, the outer CV joint moved about 3-4mm but the axle stayed still. I tried the left side and it was perfect, no movement whatsoever. BINGO! So, I'm pissed off that I have to get back under and change out the driveshaft, but I'm pleased I will have my motor back to it's proper running again-no slight drone from the rear right! ![]() How are you getting on?
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Present: 01 X5 4.4i 07 Yam R1 Past: 89 R32 Skyline various mods, running 442 BHP 00 Merc CLK55 AMG 01 E39 M5 Haywood and Scott silencers 02 E46 M3 Supersprint Cats, Eibach Lowered, Thorney Motorsport Remap, running 368 BHP
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#19
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All I have left on my front end re build are the control arms and tie rod ends, which I have, just needing a free weekend to do it. I've previously changed the thrust arm bushings, ball joints, struts, strut mounts, and tie rod links. While my rear suspension seems OK I know with my mileage a rebuild should be on the to-do list. I'm thinking maybe a summer project.
The only "challenge" seemed to be the R&R of the rear ball joints. There is a fellow forum member that has offered his BMW tool for loan and I may inquire about that when the time comes. I'm glad you've had success with your rear suspension rebuild. No doubt you can tell a big improvement on your X.
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2001 3.0i * SOLD * Current 2010 E83 Alpine White |
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#20
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Great advice, when it comes to the rear end, I would just remove the wheel carrier and lower swing arm, and REPLACE EVERYTHING. you don't want to do that job for another 75k-100k miles.
As well, order a set of handbrake cables as they almost certainly will be seized in place and needing to be cut out, parking brake shoes and hardware if you need them, and don't forget the 2 bushings on the lower swing arm piece that are pressed in and out. It may be a hefty bill but considering the weight and power that travels through our rear ends it is proper do do a full rebuild, esp knowing that many pieces may be rusted/seized in place.
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE 19k miles -Bright White/Black - Big Horn Sport - Crew Cab Short Bed 2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 - 82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards |
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