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  #11  
Old 02-10-2014, 11:49 AM
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I agree on the valvetronic issue. I just figured I'd try every other possible fix before even thinking about that.

Good thing is the valvetronic problems can be lived with. My car only has the valvetronic/rough idle on very cold mornings. The rest of the time it's perfectly fine. When I start it on cold mornings I just hold my foot on the pedal to keep the RPM's around 1500 until the temp needle starts to move, once it starts to move even the slightest the car idles as it should with no SES light.
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burtsplash View Post
Did my PCV change last weekend, lot of mayonnaise in the valve and in the piping. Clean everything and the engine runs smoother but again in cold this morning , as soon as I engaged in reverse, the engine bucked and the engine light in the dash flashed. I have to look again somewhere else...
you probably still have a lot of mayo in the engine... you need to do several hot oil changes, back to back with some engine flush ( i prefer Liqu-Moly engine flush, it is gentler but your case may warrant SeaFoam) to get the mayo out of the engine... do search and read about this...
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2014, 01:46 PM
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Pm me and I can explain. Its really easy
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2014, 07:35 PM
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What does it meen when idle is intermitedly surging 10-20rpm slightly probly half the time once warm

and when u pull dipstick at idle the engine starts to run rough?

On a n62

I will pull my ccv diaphrams this weekend, it has been -5'C the last 2 weeks
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-AFE stage 2 intake system
-x-pipe/resonator delete
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-all front and rear end suspension parts and both front cv shafts replaced
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2014, 02:25 AM
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hi guys. ive replaced my ccv rubber diaphragms tonight and removed/cleaned out the 2 ccv hoses too from the dreaded oil emulsion/mayo but as I was putting the hose back on cylinder 1-4 side, I broke the attachment clip. SO I jumped on ECS Tunings site to see how much that hose was, but they show a newer/upgraded hose for this cylinder 1-4 side of the engine. Has anyone used it and whats the purpose of adding the 3rd ccv in-line just before the engine's ccv??
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2014, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gurjit View Post
What does it meen when idle is intermitedly surging 10-20rpm slightly probly half the time once warm

and when u pull dipstick at idle the engine starts to run rough?

On a n62

I will pull my ccv diaphrams this weekend, it has been -5'C the last 2 weeks
I believe pulling the dip stick can cause a vacuum leak. you shouldn't pull the dipstick with the engine running anyway.

N62 will almost never have a butter smooth idle. Call BMW and they will tell you the same. A 10-20 RPM fluctuation is not that bad.
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1995 540I Schwartz
2000 Z4 3.0 Titanium Silver
2000 330ci Coupe Titanium Silver
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2014, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
hi guys. ive replaced my ccv rubber diaphragms tonight and removed/cleaned out the 2 ccv hoses too from the dreaded oil emulsion/mayo but as I was putting the hose back on cylinder 1-4 side, I broke the attachment clip. SO I jumped on ECS Tunings site to see how much that hose was, but they show a newer/upgraded hose for this cylinder 1-4 side of the engine. Has anyone used it and whats the purpose of adding the 3rd ccv in-line just before the engine's ccv??

You have an 05 4.4I? The CCV's are on top of each valve cover, that's it. I think the pictures you posted are for the M62 engine, not the N62 that you have.
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Past Bimmers
1991 318I Alpine White
1995 740I Alpine White
1991 525I Schwartz
1998 323IS Scwartz
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1995 540I Schwartz
2000 Z4 3.0 Titanium Silver
2000 330ci Coupe Titanium Silver
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2014, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon002 View Post
I believe pulling the dip stick can cause a vacuum leak. you shouldn't pull the dipstick with the engine running anyway.

N62 will almost never have a butter smooth idle. Call BMW and they will tell you the same. A 10-20 RPM fluctuation is not that bad.
thank you
__________________
04 black on sapphire 4.8is personally put 90,000kms
fully loaded minus the fold out trunk floor
-20' DUB X10 3 piece rims staggered setup
-LED angel eyes + interior lights + e70 style shifter
-AFE stage 2 intake system
-x-pipe/resonator delete
-UV coat windshield
-rebuilt Pano roof
-dynavin N6
-all front and rear end suspension parts and both front cv shafts replaced
-OEM hitch

And 2007 GSXR750
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2014, 07:40 AM
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Those are the upgraded hoses to separate the banks. So one bank doesnt affect the other anymore on the vacuum side. Very high crankcase vacuum in the N engines. Almost double the M engines. The valvetronic causes that engine to have barely any intake vacuum (since the valves barely open when idling). Hence the need for the vacuum pump for thre brake booster. Strange that there is so much crancase vacuum and barely any intake vacuum. Who knows...The typical upgraded hoses do not have that one ccv on them. I believe that is for an n62b48 but only on a very specific application. I cant think of it right off hand but have seen it before. Those replacement pipes are pretty expensive. I am always so careful when removing the old one.
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  #20  
Old 02-12-2014, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon002 View Post
You have an 05 4.4I? The CCV's are on top of each valve cover, that's it. I think the pictures you posted are for the M62 engine, not the N62 that you have.
I have an 04 4.4L. When I go to realoem.com to look at my X5 with the VIN#, it tells me I have a N62 and when I changed my PCV's, one of those was on this housing on the vacuum line.
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