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  #21  
Old 02-17-2014, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puddinboo View Post
I thought someone on here with an aftermarket door carrier had to drill a hole bigger on the carrier to make it fit ,but don`t quote me on this .I do a lot of reading so I could get things mixed up lol. I read in case if I have a problem down the road or help someone out if I can.
Should that be the case though? Because with the carrier off the door, I'm able to place the lock tumbler in the carrier and screw in the hex bolt just fine. The way I have it seated at the moment is the front screw on the door handle is seated as far back.



I've tried other positions but I'm not having any luck. Where should it be seated?
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  #22  
Old 02-17-2014, 01:06 PM
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Try this... remove the new carrier and put the old one back in. If the holes line up then good. Now, put the new one back in, if it is still out then the part is defective.

But if you put the old one back in and it doesn't line up, then something might have moved, or again, its not seated properly. It really doesnt take much since the carrier is pretty much molded to the sheetmetal. So once you lay it in there, it should be able to find it way into its "Groove"
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  #23  
Old 02-17-2014, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TwinTurboGTR View Post
Try this... remove the new carrier and put the old one back in. If the holes line up then good. Now, put the new one back in, if it is still out then the part is defective.

But if you put the old one back in and it doesn't line up, then something might have moved, or again, its not seated properly. It really doesnt take much since the carrier is pretty much molded to the sheetmetal. So once you lay it in there, it should be able to find it way into its "Groove"
I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that I took the previous carrier out and zipped tied it. When I tried to install it, after zip tying it, I had the same exact issue. However, I was able to get it to fit by brute force. I then received the new carrier last week and wanted to install the new one because I didn't want to rely on a zip tie to get the door open.
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  #24  
Old 02-17-2014, 01:18 PM
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did you try using the factory screw? the tapered 1 .
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  #25  
Old 02-17-2014, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by puddinboo View Post
did you try using the factory screw? the tapered 1 .
I haven't yet. I will try that later today when I get home from work.
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  #26  
Old 02-17-2014, 03:09 PM
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might make it easier start the screw counter clockwise and then clockwise . don`t cross thread it though. and don`t rush and get frusterated thats when things go wrong ,just take a break ,have beer ,try again
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  #27  
Old 02-17-2014, 03:10 PM
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have you tried pushing the cylinder in while moving the screw (mine was taped to the allen wrench) backwards and pushing the wrench out towards the cylinder?

That worked for me.
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  #28  
Old 02-17-2014, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by e30cabrio View Post
have you tried pushing the cylinder in while moving the screw (mine was taped to the allen wrench) backwards and pushing the wrench out towards the cylinder?

That worked for me.
When you say push the cylinder in, you mean push it in so it sits flush with the car?
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  #29  
Old 02-17-2014, 04:23 PM
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Push is as far into the car/correct position as possible, towards the screw while pushing the screw into it.

I had to also twist the screw backwards into position. I am sorry if I am not explaining well, it is hard to do & imho poorly designed on numerous levels.
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  #30  
Old 02-17-2014, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by e30cabrio View Post
Push is as far into the car/correct position as possible, towards the screw while pushing the screw into it.

I had to also twist the screw backwards into position. I am sorry if I am not explaining well, it is hard to do & imho poorly designed on numerous levels.
No worries, I appreciate the advice. I was trying that all yesterday and when I was able to get the bolt in, the lock tumbler wouldn't sit flush with the car. I'm gonna try the original bolt later today and I'll let you know.
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