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  #1  
Old 06-20-2014, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g300d View Post
Ah, gotcha.

Maybe a temporary wheel swap with a known good set if you have access to them?
Unfortunately I don't have a set of the stock wheels, but I'm going to look into that. In the meantime, I'm going to throw the truck on jackstands again, put it into gear and look at the drivelines and CV joints spinning to see if they wobble at all. I'm also going to look into hanging calipers since I occasionally have a squeeling from the brakes when I back out of my garage, similar to what happens after washing the wheels when the rotors have that fine layer of rust on them.
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Old 06-19-2014, 01:20 PM
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Start by getting wheels/tires road force balanced, makes a HUGE difference.

If balljoints/arms are in good shape, replacing assemblies is a waste of money. Go Powerflex and do this......
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
Start by getting wheels/tires road force balanced, makes a HUGE difference.

If balljoints/arms are in good shape, replacing assemblies is a waste of money. Go Powerflex and do this......

I installed those same Powerflex bushings 3 years ago, I've had my suspension checked by 3 different shops and they each said all components are tight, and I had all 4 wheels roadforce ballanced. But I too have a wobble/vibration between 60-70mph, I've just learned to live with it, seems to be the nature of the beast...lol! It's funny how there are 3 threads going about this subject...lol!
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:15 PM
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Did you road force balance?
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
Did you road force balance?

Yes I did, I'm thinking it may be brake related, as in a sticking caliper.
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Old 06-19-2014, 03:44 PM
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I had mine road forced a year ago and although 90% good, still a slight shake on the highway. I painted my calipers a couple weeks ago and there is a TON of rust on the pistons. I am going to get 4 new calipers and SS lines next year preventativley, even if it is not fully stuck, I think I could have a slightly hung up caliper.
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Old 06-19-2014, 04:40 PM
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I too have this problem when braking at high speed around from around 75. No wobble though below 60.
My SA suggested using checking rotor temp with IR probe, says temperature deviation left vs right may indicate caliper sticking problem.
I have not done checking as our instrument at work is missing and don't know yet where i could rent one. I am convinced i may have sticky caliper as thrust arm bushings and bj as well as right cv joint have been replaced and no other front suspension parts are suspected.
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:12 AM
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[QUOTE=switchman;998744].....My SA suggested using checking rotor temp with IR probe, says temperature deviation left vs right may indicate caliper sticking problem.......[QUOTE]

I've posted that a few times on other "sticking caliper/warped rotor" suspect threads.

Hwy drive for over 10 mins, COAST off exit to safe area (NO brakes), set parking brake and IR pyrometer rotor surfaces.

This is part of my spring/fall clean procedure, verify brakes are not dragging. Just did it Mon.
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Old 06-20-2014, 10:16 PM
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I've posted that a few times on other "sticking caliper/warped rotor" suspect threads.

Hwy drive for over 10 mins, COAST off exit to safe area (NO brakes), set parking brake and IR pyrometer rotor surfaces.

This is part of my spring/fall clean procedure, verify brakes are not dragging. Just did it Mon.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, TiAgX5. I'm 90% positive sticky caliper is my problem even without the thermal check. I might just replace both L&R front caliper if i find repaired units. The few times i looked on web, only left caliper is available with Dugeon brand, oem is way too much $$$.

Anyone got any feedback about Dugeon calipers ?
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