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  #11  
Old 08-06-2014, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minz-x5 View Post
#Rick Bobby - I'm not pussyfooting around - I detected the problem and took the car to the dealer (it's still there actually) to see what's wrong and not.

I'm trying to get an idea of the costs - and you'll probably agree that, if a BMW dealer charges me $2,200 all-in minus BMW CCA 15% discount on parts (around $200 from what I was told) and an indie wants $1,700 plus tax, then the answer is simple: OFC I'll go to the dealer. If an indie wants $1,300, well, that's another story.

And just to make another point, a third BMW indie gave me an estimate of $2,123 (see attached image below) - that matches the BMW dealer... So, as you can see, it's not all black and white, and doing your homework is necessary.

Plus, sharing these estimates for common problems with other members on this forum, is something I believe is beneficial to all.

The parts cost is the real raping. Go here and order a pair of the correct springs: https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...21_pid137.html As many here will vouch, the quality is just as good and the warranty is probably even better than OEM.
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  #12  
Old 08-06-2014, 10:30 AM
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My question is why are you getting the indy's estimates to provide BMW parts? The parts cost is killing you here.

Here is a Meyle HD tension strut, get both for $240 shipped:

BMW Tension Strut Front Right (E53) - Meyle HD 31126769718 | FCP Euro

Here are your Arnott Industries front air struts, $850 shipped for the pair:

https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...37_gid532.html

I would double check the labor estimates and the labor cost will be less if you have the dealership R&R the thrust arms as opposed to taking off and pressing out/in new bushings. There is also a $30 per side ball joint on the opposite side of the thrust arm I recommend replacing as well, but that's up to you. And again, surprised the dealer and/or the indy shops arent recommending alignment afterwards.


Comparing an indy cost to a dealer cost is somewhat moot if the indy is quoting you with BMW parts anyway. I take my X5 when it needs it to probably one of the premier Euro shops in the country right now (Redline Speed Worx if you were wondering), and their labor rate is probably 10-15% less per hour than the dealer labor rate, so not much savings. But they will give me options on parts or let me bring them pre-approved parts (aka they won't install junk), and just charge me actual time on labor, instead of typing it in their computer and estimating the job on book time.



For what its worth as well, if an indy whom I trust is working on my X and is "only saving me" $500 on a $2200 estimate from the dealership, I will go to the indy. Hell, I would go to the indy for repair on $200 savings.

In my experience and it is echoed extremely loudly on this forum is that the dealership's main objective since our E53's are over 10 years old and 2 model cycles old is that they do not always take the care and precision to always fix properly and/or repair just what is needed at the time, the sales guys are in the service advisors ears to get you to buy a new Bimmer on the lot now, and toss your old piece of junk E53. So yes they will inflate the estimates and give you a laundry list of repairs to scare you into trading in so you can add to their quota for the month, I've seen it and heard it many times before.
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Last edited by Ricky Bobby; 08-06-2014 at 10:35 AM.
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  #13  
Old 08-06-2014, 11:00 AM
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Rick# I didn't ask for BMW parts, I just mentioned the problems and shared the BMW diagnosis with the indies so they know what they're dealing with. Only the third indie ($2,122) quoted me specifically with BMW parts.

#Sweep I'll agree about ordering parts online and getting the indie to charge for labor only.

The difference wasn't $500 but more like $195 between one shop and BMW (due to the CCA discount) and the other one, BMW was actually cheaper by $122.

No idea why only one indie proposed alignment and whether BMW included it without mentioning it specifically.

From what I've read, you only need to replace the rear bags in pairs, not the front ones, though I see what you mean.
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2014, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minz-x5 View Post
From what I've read, you only need to replace the rear bags in pairs, not the front ones, though I see what you mean.
From an age/wear standpoint, by the time one goes, the other is probably pretty close (unless it was previously replaced for some reason). It really just comes down to whether you want to spend the money now, and whether you want to experience the time and inconvenience of taking it to the shop once...or twice.
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  #15  
Old 08-06-2014, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.8isX5 View Post
Get the parts and I can do the work for you for less then dealer/indy. Recommended to replace in pairs so you'd need to provide the thrust arms and 2 arnott struts.

I have a few members on here who can vouch for me. Let me know.
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  #16  
Old 04-20-2015, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
My question is why are you getting the indy's estimates to provide BMW parts? The parts cost is killing you here.

Here is a Meyle HD tension strut, get both for $240 shipped:

BMW Tension Strut Front Right (E53) - Meyle HD 31126769718 | FCP Euro

Here are your Arnott Industries front air struts, $850 shipped for the pair:

https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...37_gid532.html

I would double check the labor estimates and the labor cost will be less if you have the dealership R&R the thrust arms as opposed to taking off and pressing out/in new bushings. There is also a $30 per side ball joint on the opposite side of the thrust arm I recommend replacing as well, but that's up to you. And again, surprised the dealer and/or the indy shops arent recommending alignment afterwards.


Comparing an indy cost to a dealer cost is somewhat moot if the indy is quoting you with BMW parts anyway. I take my X5 when it needs it to probably one of the premier Euro shops in the country right now (Redline Speed Worx if you were wondering), and their labor rate is probably 10-15% less per hour than the dealer labor rate, so not much savings. But they will give me options on parts or let me bring them pre-approved parts (aka they won't install junk), and just charge me actual time on labor, instead of typing it in their computer and estimating the job on book time.



For what its worth as well, if an indy whom I trust is working on my X and is "only saving me" $500 on a $2200 estimate from the dealership, I will go to the indy. Hell, I would go to the indy for repair on $200 savings.

In my experience and it is echoed extremely loudly on this forum is that the dealership's main objective since our E53's are over 10 years old and 2 model cycles old is that they do not always take the care and precision to always fix properly and/or repair just what is needed at the time, the sales guys are in the service advisors ears to get you to buy a new Bimmer on the lot now, and toss your old piece of junk E53. So yes they will inflate the estimates and give you a laundry list of repairs to scare you into trading in so you can add to their quota for the month, I've seen it and heard it many times before.
Just a few thoughts to give insight to the above. I've been a car junky since I was about 12 and started working at a Mercedes dealership in my senior year of college. I have been a service advisor, assistant service manager, Regional Vehicle Distributor for Nissan, Sales associate for Volvo, Mercedes, and BMW (most recently) Total of 40 years in the industry. I have NEVER witnessed or heard of a plan for Service advisors to present pumped up tickets, in an effort to coerce dealer customers to trade in their older vehicle for a new or Newer pre-owned,..............However, you may be unaware that SERVICE ADVISORS ARE COMMISSION PAID SALES PEOPLE. Think about that for a minute and I think you will see how this perfectly explains the frequent long laundry lists of repairs and services that service advisors present. Also remember that New BMWs have FREE MAINTENANCE during the warranty period,.....paid by BMWNA. So,...there is a bit of an effort to recapture some of that expense. In addition to above positions I listed, I have also been an independent dealer specializing in BMW, Porsche and Mercedes, mostly dealing in the models I personally liked and generally looking for older well maintained performance variants,........Over the years I have found on a number of occasions that the dealer was actually cheaper than the indie, so do your research. I used an independent guy for years to do my Mercedes Transmissions,.....he knew what he was doing, but he was 40 miles away, I had to have someone follow me to drop the car off, and then drive me back to pick the car up. He sometimes would take a few weeks to get it done, and I got a 90 day warranty. I discovered that the Mercedes dealer would do it for about the same price, have it done in ONE DAY, and provide a free rental car, and give me a one year warranty. So, I never used the indie shop again after that......BTW, it was actually about $150 cheaper at the dealer as well. Had an indie down the street from my shop fuss with an Audi Turbo for a couple weeks,.....I had a tail light glowing dimly all the time. He ended up cutting in to the wiring harness,.....and somehow disabling my cruise control in he process. $400. I was at the Audi dealer a week later for a part, and the service manager told me that they fix the glowing taillight problem under a free recall,.....bad ground.

Another indie charged me $475 to replace a fuel pump check valve and a few other items in an effort to make a Volvo Turbo 240 wagon run right. It ran worse after I picked it up than it did when I gave it to him. I found the problem a few days later,.......I was a loose clamp on the intake boot at the air flow meter,.........

Point being, Always do your research, realize that many indies are not aware of a particular vehicle's characteristic problems or how to fix them.

My solution,......I now do my own work when ever possible, using the information provided by forums like this. Best way in my opinion.
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