Rebuilding suspension. Where to start please!!!

[Professor]

Hello all. I've got an 05 4.4 (non sports ride) w/ 128k on the clock now. I have had a lot of creaking and popping when I take a turn or go over a bump. I've done some forum searching but came up with a lot of different things of what to replace.

My question is what kit is worth buying? I don't want to do anything made in China, but I do t want to spend big money either. I thinking in the $500 range. Is this doable with good parts? I looked at FCPeuro and ecstuning. Just not sure which kit to buy from either. Ecs seems to have there own kits at a significantly less price but I don't know the quality.

Any advice or direction is greatly appreciated!!!!

[Ricky Bobby]

Don't buy the ecs kits that are cheap. They have some parts in the kits that are cheaper level.

Tmv just bought a full front/rear kit from FCP which was all Meyle and Meyle HD parts, if anything id get that

[cn90]

Stick to Lemforder.

I don't have X5 DIY for you but when I did my 1998 528i suspension overhaul, I wrote it up below:

FRONT:
DIY: 1998 BMW 528i COMPLETE FRONT SUSPENSION OVERHAUL - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums


REAR:
DIY: 1998 BMW 528i Complete REAR Suspension Overhaul - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

[Professor]

Thanks for the responses! I had the rear ball joints replaced about 4,000 miles ago. All the noise is coming from the front. Is there a front kit that addresses all the things that need or should be replace on a ride with 128k??

[Professor]

Don't know about this one: BMW Suspension Kit - Front (e53) - 100K10010 - Free Shipping

Or

BMW Control Arm Kit 10 Piece (X5) - Meyle BMWX510PieceMY | FCP Euro

Just not sure what absolutely should be replaced and what isn't necessary.

[lhordmclain]

- It won't hurt to check your Power steering system (e.g. Leaks, fluid level) - low PS fluid can cause weird noise from PS pump during cold start and turning.

- check your inner and outer CV boot

- creaking sound is usually ball joints ( like driving an old school bus ), use a pry bar and listen closely to verify ( while someone shakes the vehicle to reproduce the creaking sound )

- cracked front thrust rod (castor) bushings can cause movement from your steering wheel when sudden braking at low speed or driving over a speed bump. It also can cause jabbing sounds or excessive play/movement from your front wheel.


But if you have funds to do a complete suspension overhaul by all means go for it.

GL

[thrillcat]

Sub'd. I'm in the same boat right now. I've got a shimmy in the wheel that comes and goes. I'm thinking it's the bushings (2005 4.8is w/111K). Going to get under it Sunday and see if I can get a good look at them.

While I'm under there, and since I don't have a press, I'm thinking it would probably be a good idea to do the control arms as well? Get a kit that has the bushings already in?

The struts have been replaced, though I need to pull out the carfax again and check when. It was one of the things listed. (I rescanned it the other day and realized that I had better service records than I thought...it has been pretty well maintained, and mostly at the dealership - oil changes around the 10K mark for the life of the truck, scheduled large maintenance done, etc.)

Any tips will be appreciated.

[Professor]

Cv boots are all good. Just had new half shaft installed and other boot checked out fine. It's definitely a metallic creak/pop from the drivers side when I turn right. I also get it ( not quite as bad ) from the passages side when I turn left. Really think it's a bunch of worn out ball joints and suspension pieces. Don't want to do an entire front end rebuild. I don't think I'll have it much long but I want to fix how sloppy it feels before I do another alignment.

[admranger]

Check your sway bar links. They clunk when loose or bad, either one (or both).

thrillcat, buy the arm with a new bushing pressed in. Bimmerworld will even press in Powerflex bushings for you if you want (for a price). Don't forget the little ball joints that bolt to the thrust arm. Tie rods should be checked too. Your front struts are probably toast if they haven't been replaced by now (bounce test doesn't work, but I can assure you that midwest roads and >100k miles have done them in as mine were shot at <90k miles). All of this individually would require an alignment so I prefer to tackle it all at once. If you do it yourself, torque the thrust arm and control arm bolts with the suspension at normal ride height.

[thrillcat]

Thanks! Struts were done at a dealership, need to look at the carfax again and check the date. Will continue in the direction I was heading. Appreciate it!