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  #1  
Old 09-13-2014, 11:05 PM
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X5 4.8is N62 valve cover removal

In the process of replacing valve cover gaskets and started with driver side. Having a bit of trouble lifting and removing cover. Do I need to drain the coolant and remove the heater valve assembly with hoses from that side, as well as disconnect the fuel
Line. Just thinking that this seems very difficult to remove.

Any thoughts
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Old 09-13-2014, 11:26 PM
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I remember reading something about the adjuster unit bolts having to be removed before the cover can be lifted off. The adjuster's mounting tabs are supposed to be very fragile though.

I have not done this myself (yet, it's on my list as I have the parts here already) but from the DIY I think that is what I remember being what holds the valve cover from coming straight off easily.

Hopefully someone more experienced can chime in for you.
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:03 AM
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I had similar clearance issues with mine. I just moved the hose mess out of the way a bit. No need to disassemble. Just remove the fasteners that hold it down to the fender well and you'll get a couple inches of movement in there. Enough to remove the cover.

Clearance is pretty tight. Don't break an "ear" on the sensor at the rear of the valve cover (like me). I broke one ear and ended up sticking the wire-down with a little RTV.


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Old 09-14-2014, 12:56 PM
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^Good deal, that was what I was referring to... not the adjuster. Knew I read something about fragile tabs or ears in there.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles)


2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)
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Old 09-14-2014, 01:40 PM
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I unhinged the heater valve from the bracket, but still was not enough room, I will try to remove the bracket and try that. I read that the fuel injection pipe may need to be removed which has the fuel hose located on top by valve cover, anymore had to do this.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:40 AM
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I had all of the fuel injection stuff and the intake removed when I did mine. I was also doing the valley-pan at the same time - so cannot comment on the ease of removal with all of that stuff in place.


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Old 09-15-2014, 10:41 AM
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Yes. I also removed the bracket itself now that I think about it.


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Old 09-15-2014, 11:43 AM
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To remove the right Valve cover, first you have to take off the upper trim around the brake fluid reservoir & brake booster. Then you have to take off the lower cam sensor. Then you bleed the coolant, and take off the heater hoses & heater valve. then you take off the "hook" that keep the 2 heater hoses from the heater core to the heater valve. Look up this post, and scroll down. It's explained.
Then you should have no issues.

Good luck

P.S.: To re-install the valve cover, after you replaced the gasket, here is how to do it in one shot, without issues:

Put gasket maker around the halfmoons (rear) and around the 2 spots where the upper timing gasket mate with the cylinder head (in your case bank2). I would also change the upper timing gasket(s) together with the solenoid seals & vacuum pump seal (bank#1) prior to this.

Once the bead of gasket maker is laid, and the new VCG is on the cover, place the spark plug pipes in their place. Lube both ends, and also lube the inner part of the valve cover where they will go in. Then slide the cover behind the eccentric shaft sensor (Attention fragile). Push the valve cover in. Take a hammer or a piece of wood (long), place on the lower part of the cover (where you won't break any plastic ridges - hammer handle is best), and tap gently with a rubber mallet so as the cover will seat properly on the lower half (You might have to guide/make sure that the spark plug pipes are in the correct position), Then, screw in the long bolt that is closest to the firewall.
Then screw in the 4 short bolts/nuts at the bottom. Then you switch sides and screw in the longer bolts/nuts on top. Then you screw in the last 4 long bolts at the front. All this, without tightening them down. Once this done, screw them starting from the back, to the front. the tightening torque is 10NM for the 5 long bolts and 15 NM for the 8 bolts/nuts at the lower & upper perimeter. So use 10 NM for ALL, then once this is achieved, tighten the perimeter ones at 15 NM.
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Last edited by Doru; 09-15-2014 at 11:57 AM.
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  #9  
Old 09-15-2014, 03:39 PM
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X5 4.8is N62 valve cover removal

Doru, thanks for the detail info, I will update
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  #10  
Old 09-20-2014, 07:06 PM
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Just got left VC and timing cover off. A bit of challenge.
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