2006 e53 3.0 hesitiation little to no power - Page 2

mendes9 · #11 10-12-2014, 03:23 PM

So honestly stupid me... what happened was.. I took out the t40 torx bolt no problem, then the bottom one .. I was fooled because the bottom bolt wasn't a t40 head as I said it was a square head and I was expecting a t40 torx .. what I did was taking out the t40 torx bolt that actually holds the ICV valve metal plate and that's the one I wound up stripping.

Now, since I thought that was the bottom bolt of the DISA and I couldn't get it out.. and had bad access to the bolt.. I said screw it I'm going to force out the DISA and I will just replace it.. when I popped out the DISA it broke the bottom plastic piece that holds the bolt, that was not an original T40 was still on..

Now to answer your question.. it's hard to tell because I forced it out as I said. But I found a web site to test DISA and it looked good.. flap moved piston.. it had resistance, and if I plugged the vacuum hole the flap stopped at 45deg. Thanks for your reply, and suggestion would be appreciated.

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Ricky Bobby · #12 10-12-2014, 04:38 PM

So you basically broke the DISA mount because of haste and could have originally probably did a preventative rebuild with the 90 dollar GAS kit but instead now needed a new valve from the dealer,

upallnight · #13 10-12-2014, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

So you basically broke the DISA mount because of haste and could have originally probably did a preventative rebuild with the 90 dollar GAS kit but instead now needed a new valve from the dealer,

Sounds more like he broke the DISA Valve due to a lack of knowledge and experience. If you don't know what you are doing you can view A VIDEO on Youtube. There are hundred of videos on repairing the BM Trouble U. If after reviewing the video and you still don't understand the procedure to repair the X, you will be better off to take it to a shop. Breaking good part is not going to save you money.

upallnight · #14 10-12-2014, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trader4

That about covers it. I don't know why he's even fiddling with the DISA, it can't produce the sudden almost total loss of power he's experiencing anyway. It just fine tunes the mid-range performance and most people wouldn't even notice it if it's not working. If it's leaking air around it, that could account for the lean codes, but then it should be a gradual process, and not one where the car just suddenly loses most of it's power.

I'd focus on that P1515 code. Googling, not sure what it means, comes back with several different meanings. Checked Bently, they have no 1515.

If the pin came out and the flap was stuck in a certain position it can cause a sudden loss of power.

upallnight · #15 10-12-2014, 06:51 PM

Air leak around the seal of a DISA valve can produce p0172 and p0174 lean codes. If you Google it you will find that other then a broken boot this is one of the most common source for these codes.

I had the p0172 and p0174 on my BM Trouble U, replace the seal with an o-ring and never got those codes again. However being anal about my cars, I went and brought a new Disa Valve from the dealer. I would sell you my old valve except that I have already sold it to another member on this forum when he was having a similar problem.

Here's a link to m y post on the Disa Valve:

http://www.xoutpost.com/906117-post26.html

upallnight · #16 10-13-2014, 12:53 PM

Another source for the lean codes for both banks could be inadequate gasoline supplied to the cylinders. This could be due to a weak fuel pump or a very dirty fuel filter. You can connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and check the fuel pressure with just the key on (running position of the ignition switch) and with the engine running. If you are not getting at least 45 psi you should replace the filter if it wasn't done recently, and most likely it wasn't done recently since most third and beyond owners are too cheap to maintain a BMW. If the pressure is still low you have a weak pump. Buy a genuine BMW pump and not one of those cheap pump found on eBay or Amazon.

bcredliner · #17 10-13-2014, 02:50 PM

Assuming the problem happened all at once, not over a period of time.

When you have a problem like you have, because there are many possible causes the best course of action is to troubleshoot until you have discovered the core cause. Codes are some indication but not always conclusive. If you didn't clear the codes first they may be old. Best approach is clear the codes and see what returns. IMO you have more and simple troubleshooting to do before replacing parts.

Since an engine needs spark, air and fuel to run, start there. As per other posts the problem is not likely spark because the code indicates all cylinders are impacted. It is not likely air filter since it came on so quickly. Per upallnight, you need to know if it is getting fuel. Auto parts stores often have a fuel pressure tester that you can use free of charge.

The first thing I would do is eliminate the MAF as the cause. I'm not sure you have. I suggest you test the MAF again by removing the connector and seeing if the idle is smoother. If it does not it is time to look elsewhere. The engine will not rev properly with the MAF disconnected. The test is only at an idle. Did you use MAF cleaner? Did you spray the wires that are partially hidden?

Vacuum leaks were also mentioned. Sometimes you can find a vacuum leak by spraying carb or brake cleaner where there could be a vacuum leak. It a vacuum leak is sprayed the idle will increase for a short period of time. The best way to determine is there a vacuum leak is to have a smoke test done. One of the more common sources of a vacuum leak is the air intake tube. A visual inspection should work if that is the case.

You mentioned a knocking sound. That could be coming from the DISA valve or the throttle body but because you were trying to rev the engine I suspect it was spark knock. How would you describe it, fast, slow, steady pace, loud, constant, only when you tried to accelerate?

mendes9 · #18 10-13-2014, 03:32 PM

bcredliner,

The car was working perfectly last week, and just happened all the sudden.. car felt like someone was rapidly turning a light bulb off and on.. stuttering. As I barely made it home, yes I can start the car and it will idle although it's not 100% normal.. and when I try to accelerate it hesitates and will stall. Any other suggestions would be great.

bcredliner · #19 10-13-2014, 03:35 PM

Before doing anything need to know if knocking sound is present at an idle.

Cadburysx5 · #20 10-15-2014, 05:51 PM

Honestly sounds like a lack of fuel to me... If the throttle pedal and body are in sync. You could have a fuel pump that is barely operating at normal pressure just enough to get it to start. Could also be a bad fuel filter since the fuel pressure regulator is integrated into it. I have seen those go out and the car has the same described symptoms I would check that. There is also a vac line connected to the filter that can crack. No vacuum not fuel pressure... Hope this helps

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