x5 e53 4.4 misfire and rough idle

[LVP]

As some more insight to this topic, I've been getting misfires on really cold starts (temperatures -15C or below). The code descriptions were misfires with signal cutout on cylinders 1, 8 and 3. Misfire with signal or value above threshold on cylinder 6 and exhaust-gas-related misfire after starting on cylinders 2 and 7.

I noted all the codes and instances on each cylinder, cleared the codes and within a week and on a very cold morning, it started up rough and the check engine light came on. A restart tended to clear it up and get it running smooth again. The issue never presented itself on warm(er) starts or when the car was actually warmed up. It purred like a kitten then. Well, a V8 kitten.....

I took it to an independent shop and he suspected the intermediate levers. When I had my engine open before, my levers weren't part of those described in my SIB post above. The factory default of the levers is supposed to be 0.3mm. Apparently BMW came up with a software fix that allowed adjustment up to 0.8mm. Mine were actually set at 0.1mm. So we set to 0.3mm and I'll keep an eye on the cold starts. The closer you get to 0.8mm, the worse things get - hesitation on throttle response from idle, increased fuel consumption, and a coupe of other things it noted.

Not sure if this helps anyone, but sharing nonetheless. I'll keep this thread updated with any adjustment updates.

Cheers.

[ralpho]

I believe the dealers software adjust these out of tolerance when it is warm
Then you have trouble when it is cold and pay 7000 to fix it.

Else why would BMW not own this problem their f up.

[X5Moe4.4]

Originally Posted by ralpho

I believe the dealers software adjust these out of tolerance when it is warm
Then you have trouble when it is cold and pay 7000 to fix it.

Else why would BMW not own this problem their f up.

You can get a whole "new" low milage head for much MUCH less than $7000..
Take this with a grain of salt, but i see no reason what so ever to be taking a minimum 8 year old vehicle to a dealer to get service done on it, unless of course you have some sort of extra warranty.

Hell you can probably get a whole engine for half of that.

Any way, as for an update on how my vehicle is doing since the replacement of the eccentric shaft and levers..
Its doing just fine has no problems starting in the mornings even in -20C weather. But like every other winter since ive owned this car its been a constant struggle with window regulators and door handle carriers lol but thats pretty much expected at this point.

[Whitecat]

True for intermediate lever, but 1st check oil in the plugs - check valve cover gasket leaks and cam sensors leaks - some of us n62 experienced that problem especially during winter (not ur case i guess no winter in egypt) if it come back, just turn off and turn on again ...and yes ur service engine soon will flash.

Intermediate lever replacement is $$ expensive not sure you'll get a good ROI... Fix those things first and you should see improvement... The rest live with it if you can... Until ur next F15😄

[ralpho]

If you do go to the stealer they will first charge you 2000 bucks to change spark plugs and coils. 100 percent guarantee.

[X5Moe4.4]

Originally Posted by ralpho

If you do go to the stealer they will first charge you 2000 bucks to change spark plugs and coils. 100 percent guarantee.

LOL

The prices of parts from the dealer are sometimes really funny, they sell a single NGK or Bosch spark plug for somewhere around $35-$40 I found the EXACT same spark plug at Canadian Tire from NGK with the same part number for $13 for a pair and changed all 8 by my self in about an hour, the 2 plugs closest to the fire wall are sometimes a bitch to get to unless you use elbow joints..
As far as coils, were pretty much screwed on those because i would only trust the ones i get from the dealer because there are a lot of fake ones on the internet, i dont remember the price on them but there literally a 15 minute job to replace your self. The only tool you need is a torx bit to take off the engine cover and the brackets that hold the coils down.


If you have a high milage n62 that needs head work done (levers or eccentric/cam shafts) i highly suggest you just buy a low milage used head and just replace the whole damn thing.. Of course you should probably replace any gaskets and valves while your in there (the major things i remember replacing were the valve cover gasket, the CCV's and spark plug tubes)

[X5Moe4.4]

Originally Posted by Whitecat

True for intermediate lever, but 1st check oil in the plugs - check valve cover gasket leaks and cam sensors leaks - some of us n62 experienced that problem especially during winter (not ur case i guess no winter in egypt) if it come back, just turn off and turn on again ...and yes ur service engine soon will flash.

Intermediate lever replacement is $$ expensive not sure you'll get a good ROI... Fix those things first and you should see improvement... The rest live with it if you can... Until ur next F15😄

Those were the first things i checked for and replaced, i found oil in the spark plug wells but not the spark plug its self, that told me it was time for a new VGC after replaced it didnt really improve, i took to my indy and he knew right away that it was the valve-tronic that was the problem because once he set minimum valve lift to the highest setting she was smooth as ever.

[Whitecat]

Originally Posted by X5Moe4.4

Those were the first things i checked for and replaced, i found oil in the spark plug wells but not the spark plug its self, that told me it was time for a new VGC after replaced it didnt really improve, i took to my indy and he knew right away that it was the valve-tronic that was the problem because once he set minimum valve lift to the highest setting she was smooth as ever.

Nice, i guess in my case, because i had leaks from VGC and leaks from the cam sensors as well...i saw some improvement at cold start ....and how much $$ to fix that intermediate lever? - this is not a DIY kind of thing...

[hpy540]

This is the only option for this problem?

[Allante666]

Hi, I know this is an old thread but Im hoping someone might jumo in and answer a question here? it says :-
"he knew right away that it was the valve-tronic that was the problem because once he set minimum valve lift to the highest setting she was smooth as ever."

So I'm assuming that it means set the valve lift igher using INPA? If so, and it ran as 'smooth as ever', why cant you leave it like this? Is this just for when its cold and hasnt warmed up yet?
TIA
Andy