E53 3.0 X5 Pre-Purchase Advice

[Bluemach1]

I am looking at a 2003 3.0 X5 with 60k miles and I would appreciate any advice on things to look for on my pre-purchase run through.

I am a E39 (2001) M5 owner and have a pretty good feel for what may lay in store for the power plant (have also owned a 330i) but have no idea what to look for regarding other common issues may lurk with the X5.

Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

[SMOKEY53]

Check the FAQ section but in summary, things you need to be aware of in no particular order of seriousness are:

- cooling system (pretty much along the same lines as e39)
- caster bushes aka thrust arms (to test, put car in D from standstill, don't touch accelerator, wait for it to gain speed and jam on brakes - if you hear a loud bang, they're gone)
- transmission - any hesitation, juddering or slipping - walk a away.
- sunroof esp if pano roof. Check for full range of motion with no noise.
- windows. Regulators go often a la e46, listen for clicking or grinding or slow movement.
- door handle carriers. Check all work smoothly.
- tyre wear - esp with larger wheels, particularly rear. Can be alignment at best, new tyres worse, worn suspension and all of the above at worst.
- pixelation of dash cluster and Nav screen where fitted.


.....that's a start. No need to go into explaining that a cheap bmw to buy is often the most expensive to own as I am sure you know. But those are some common faults.

3.0 is a pretty sound engine and avoids a lot of the V8 issues, but it will probably feel pretty underpowered and be somewhat thirsty compared to what you're used to.

Good luck!


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[g300d]

Just to add to SMOKEY's list:

Engine oil leaks: valve cover, oil pan, oil filter housing bracket.

Excess negative camber on the rear wheels - worn rear suspension bushings.

Check the rear subframe bushings too.

[stackz]

make sure the cv joint boots arent cracked either.

[Doru]

Coming from the ///M & 330, I would suggest to test drive a 4.4, 4.6 or 4.8 after you test drive the 3.0
If you look at the 3.0 for mpg, this is NOT a factor - fuel economy is sensible equal (or close) between all these models, but oomph factor is lacking.

[cn90]

Coming from another BMW, you should be familiar with the usual issues (Cooling System etc.).

The particular issue for 2001-2003 X5 is the transfer case. Subsequent TC (2004-2006 models) seems to be better.

[Ricky Bobby]

Well the 3.0 is the most reliable engine for the most part. You already know all the E46 issues:

-CCV (make sure updated to cold weather version and replace dipstick guide tube to Cold Climate), in CA this isn't as important, but I would make sure to replace it, mine was original when replaced this year at 11 years of age
-VCG / Vanos - At your mileage again probably not necessary but an easy DIY
-DISA Rebuild - Easy DIY with the G.A.S. kit
-At the age of the vehicle, expansion tank should have been replaced at least once, coolant flushed twice, new hoses, Tstat, and perhaps water pump. If these are all original I would do this AT ONCE
-At the age I would inspect/replace tensioners, belts, and perhaps fan clutch (mine was almost seized at 10 years old) - All E53
-Check tire age and condition (all E53)
-Due to age many bushings/ball joints at least in the front suspension will be fairly shot, recommend replacing the front end stuff first as that is most noticeable
(This is across all E53)

Other than that just change all the fluids if you buy it, give it a good hot oil change and drive the piss out of it. I have no remarks on AT issues because I have a 5 Speed

[upallnight]

If you are buying it from a dealer, and they offer an extended warranty, buy the extended warranty for it.

[lo_jack]

This is especially and best true with auto transmissions. The difference being the failure rate of early automatics is higher at all engine hour counts, not because of the fuel consumption difference which is, as already pointed out, negligible.

Put it another way: if you are looking at Gen 1 X5s with automatics, you might as well pick a 4.4. The only reason to pick a 3.0 at this point in time is for a manual transmission which has a lower failure rate.

Originally Posted by Doru

Coming from the ///M & 330, I would suggest to test drive a 4.4, 4.6 or 4.8 after you test drive the 3.0
If you look at the 3.0 for mpg, this is NOT a factor - fuel economy is sensible equal (or close) between all these models, but oomph factor is lacking.

[upallnight]

3.0 trans are GM trans.
4.4 trans are ZF trans.

Two completely different type of trans from two different suppliers.

4.4 trans are known to have issue with cracked drums and o-rings problems. You know you have this problem when the trans slam into gears.