SMOKEY - My 2005 E53 3.0D Run Sheet

[Racoon]

Smokey, nice build!

Can you briefly describe the 5 minute process to block the EGR? Do you block the vacuum tube and the EGR itself? Does this in any way affect the electronics etc? Thanks.

[SMOKEY53]

Originally Posted by Racoon

Smokey, nice build!

Can you briefly describe the 5 minute process to block the EGR? Do you block the vacuum tube and the EGR itself? Does this in any way affect the electronics etc? Thanks.

Here is a quick write up.....



PROS: Smoother idle, Smoother mid range, reduce carbon buildup in manifold, eliminate EGR open/close issues, 10 minute mod, 100% reversible, no special tools required

CONS: may contravene emissions regulations in your area, in some cars EGR has some part to play in keeping cylinder temps down but hard to get definitive info on that, it will throw an EGR code when you scan for errors so you will need to plug it back in to eliminate that code or just be aware that it's going to show up

As you know I've been working through some issues with my 2005 3.0d since taking ownership a couple of months ago.

It got sick pretty quick after delivery. This turned out to be due to cracked injector mount allowing the injector to 'float' in it's seat and let compression past. This must have happened pre-delivery when they replaced the turbo (blown oil seals) and valve cover gasket. So I got that all sorted out, replaced all filters, put quality oil in and had the EGR cleaned out and all manifold seals/gaskets replaced.

It ran a lot better, but still would often feel 'grainy' during acceleration and rough on idle. IT was nothing dramatic, but to give an example, my iphone sitting in the windscreen mounted cradle used to vibrate a lot when ideling at the lights, indicated the engine wasn't running all that smooth. But I wasn't sure if it was just my paranoia, or if that was the nature of the diesel and the way the car was meant to be given I'd never driven it in 100% optimal health.

Anyway, after researching on blanking the EGR I decided to do it, given I'd just paid all this money to get the EGR cleaned and manifold seals replaced, last thing I wanted to do was for it to coke up again with carbon.

1. Pull the plastic engine cover off
2. Pull the vacc line off the EGR (it's very obvious)
3. Screw an inch long M5 fine threaded bolt down into the vacc hose. Secure with a zip tie for good measure.
4. Replace plastic engine cover

This process took no longer than 10 minutes. The results are dramatic.

The car runs a lot smoother at idle and pulls a lot cleaner. At first I thought the power felt a bit lower as the boost wasn't hitting as hard from 2k on, but the reality is I'm getting a lot smoother transition into boost, meaning a fatter torque curve and I'm sure the car is quicker as a result.

Now one could argue that this would indicate there was an issue with my EGR in the first place, but given I only just had it cleaned by a BMW specialist a few weeks ago, I doubt this is the case.

The mod is 100% reversible. Takes 10 mins max. Try it yourself, if you don't notice any difference feel free to resort back to standard - but I'm pleased with the results.

[Racoon]

Wow, thanks for that, Smokey! I was somewhat concerned about one of damned flashing error codes popping up all the time on the dash, but if it only comes up when the OBD system is checked, then I can live with this.

I will perform the operation as soon as practicable, and let you know. Cheers!

[ants_oz]

I had mine out for a trip on the weekend, and performed this mod before I left on Saturday morning. One thing I noticed was that the vacuum hose was perished, so have ordered another to replace it. However that did not prevent the hose being blanked and the EGR valve isolated. And all weekend she ran like a charm.

[SMOKEY53]

Update - Modifications - Suspension

Whiteline Rear Sway Bar
Lower Control Arms

I picked up this sway bar on eBay on a whim. I am well aware that the X5 in diesel format is no race car, but I put in an offer on a Whiteline RSB for $99 (which is about 1/3rd of RRP) and I won the auction. Stock swaybar is 23mm - the Whiteline is 26.5mm....call it 26mm I guess? I have put sway bars on multiple cars before and been amazed at how they transform the handling, particularly by fitting a rear sway bar only on a car that has under steer tendencies. In theory stiffening the rear pushes more grip to the softer front end. In practice, my Mazdaspeed3 with Hotchkis was case in point.

Moving on, so this weekend I also installed new Meyle lower control arms in the front end, which immediately got rid of the feeling like I was steering the car with a piece of rope connected to the front steering knuckles. The OEM items didn't look all that bad, there were some cracks/tears in the main bushing but they were very small - I expected them to be falling to pieces based on how violently the wheel shook when braking at hwy speed. Took it for a drive, was happy with my work, no knocks or noises, no shimmying on light braking, job done. So decided to throw the sway bar in next. (I didn't want to do both at the same time in case something did knock - it can be tricky sometimes with suspension to work out where the knock is coming from so I didn't want to introduce too many variables.)

RSB took about 2 hours from start to finish. With a hoist and a workshop setup, it would probably take 30 minutes. I greased the poly bushings with CV & axel grease as I know from past experience they can get squeeky with time.

Took the car for a spin and hit a particular down hill S-curve I know well. The car sat so much flatter, and hussled through the corner at a speed I had never taken it at before. However, with every improvement, a deficiency in other areas is highlighted. I noticed that as I loaded up the front wheel and powered out of the corner, the unloaded front wheel would start to 'wheel hop' and fight for grip. This is without doubt further evidence that my front shocks are FUBAR'd as they're just flapping about in the breeze and influencing no control over the wheels. The Bilsteins can't come soon enough!

Sorry for the photos, didn't realise how bad they were until now....

[THATDONFC]

I Love your wheel setup. Hows the ride quality with the 20s?

[SMOKEY53]

Originally Posted by THATDONFC

I Love your wheel setup. Hows the ride quality with the 20s?

Thanks, the ride is fine. It is on the firm side, but the Style 168s came fitted from the factory, so I guess they intended it to be that way. All I have done differently is put 25mm spacers on the rear and fitted a set of 10.5" rears up front. Steers and handles great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SMOKEY53]

Update - Maintenance - Exterior

Passenger Side Mirror Replacement


I always thought the visibility over the passenger side was really poor. I never trusted my mirrors and would always do a frantic head check before changing lanes as most of my driving is in city traffic. Too many times I'd find a small econo box in my blindspot, or a motorbike etc. One day I noted my passenger mirror was a different color and didn't have the defrost element running down it. Turns out that mirror had been replaced at some stage with a flat glass version. So bought an aespherical mirror (blue tint) with heating element off eBay to match the D/S mirror and hopefully open up the field of vision.

Removal is easy. Using controls, put mirror as far up as motion allows. Get a large trim removal tool under the edge of mirror and lever off the mirror housing until it pops off. If you have heating element, remove wires. The miror I got off ebay didn't have a bracket so I had to remove that off the existing mirror. It is a large circular piece with four locking tabs, just slide downwards, takes some force. Put onto new mirror taking note of the marking that indicates 'top'. Reconnect heating wires.

Putting it back into place requires some force. You're trying to get that circle in the middle of the mirror bracket to lock onto the ball joint of the mirror motor housing. Centre it as best you can, then push like hell with one hand on the back of the mirror housing, the other on the mirror face. I used a bit of silicon spray to lube up the process. Visibility is now so much better, can see clearly 3 lanes of traffic beside me over my passenger side. Not to mention the blue tint now matches the drivers side and looks much better. A solid improvement for $30 if it saves me side-swiping someone or knocking a rider over!

Dip Switch Cleaning

While I was in here, I also took the opp to take apart the motor and clean the tracks on the dip switch sensors. Normally when the car reverses, it should dip the mirror to look at the wheel so you don't kerb your rims. Mine stopped doing that soon after I bought the car, for a few weeks it would just spaz out and go up and down rapidly then it stopped doing it all together. I followed this guide. Worked a treat, thanks @Bulk

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...d-writeup.html

[bcredliner]

Good choices, well done!

[powers1]

Originally Posted by SMOKEY53

Update - Maintenance - Exterior

Passenger Side Mirror Replacement


I always thought the visibility over the passenger side was really poor. I never trusted my mirrors and would always do a frantic head check before changing lanes as most of my driving is in city traffic. Too many times I'd find a small econo box in my blindspot, or a motorbike etc. One day I noted my passenger mirror was a different color and didn't have the defrost element running down it. Turns out that mirror had been replaced at some stage with a flat glass version. So bought an aespherical mirror (blue tint) with heating element off eBay to match the D/S mirror and hopefully open up the field of vision.

Removal is easy. Using controls, put mirror as far up as motion allows. Get a large trim removal tool under the edge of mirror and lever off the mirror housing until it pops off. If you have heating element, remove wires. The miror I got off ebay didn't have a bracket so I had to remove that off the existing mirror. It is a large circular piece with four locking tabs, just slide downwards, takes some force. Put onto new mirror taking note of the marking that indicates 'top'. Reconnect heating wires.

Putting it back into place requires some force. You're trying to get that circle in the middle of the mirror bracket to lock onto the ball joint of the mirror motor housing. Centre it as best you can, then push like hell with one hand on the back of the mirror housing, the other on the mirror face. I used a bit of silicon spray to lube up the process. Visibility is now so much better, can see clearly 3 lanes of traffic beside me over my passenger side. Not to mention the blue tint now matches the drivers side and looks much better. A solid improvement for $30 if it saves me side-swiping someone or knocking a rider over!

Dip Switch Cleaning

While I was in here, I also took the opp to take apart the motor and clean the tracks on the dip switch sensors. Normally when the car reverses, it should dip the mirror to look at the wheel so you don't kerb your rims. Mine stopped doing that soon after I bought the car, for a few weeks it would just spaz out and go up and down rapidly then it stopped doing it all together. I followed this guide. Worked a treat, thanks @Bulk

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...d-writeup.html

Thats a great job ,Smokey ..Good tips too .Mine still fine but its a matter of time .