No Defrost or Footwell Heat, Dash vents fine

[thrillcat]

Checking over the service records, I'm seeing that the upper cooling system hoses were replaced almost exactly 2 years ago (15K miles ago) at the dealership. That's the last cooling system work that's been done.

[bcredliner]

Open the fill cap when the engine is cold and has not yet run to check if coolant is up to the proper level in the expansion tank. Put the cap back on and make sure it is tight.

Do not remove the fill cap when the engine is running as the system is pressurized. Open The bleed screw, right next to the fill cap, should be open only enough so that coolant comes out and leave it open until only coolant comes out. Do not remove the bleed screw.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

Open the fill cap when the engine is cold and has not yet run to check if coolant is up to the proper level in the expansion tank. Put the cap back on and make sure it is tight.

Do not remove the fill cap when the engine is running as the system is pressurized. Open The bleed screw, right next to the fill cap, should be open only enough so that coolant comes out and leave it open until only coolant comes out. Do not remove the bleed screw.

Do you need to siphon coolant out after you get to the no bubbles from the bleeder screw point?
Seems the level would be way to full if your pouring coolant into it until your bubble free.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by CrazyOneToo

Do you need to siphon coolant out after you get to the no bubbles from the bleeder screw point?
Seems the level would be way to full if your pouring coolant into it until your bubble free.

No. When the engine cools back down the coolant level will drop in the reservoir. Then you can top up the system to the "Cold" or "Kalt" fill line on the float.

Do not open the fill cap with the system pressurized... which it will be if you are trying to bleed the system.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

No. When the engine cools back down the coolant level will drop in the reservoir. Then you can top up the system to the "Cold" or "Kalt" fill line on the float.

Do not open the fill cap with the system pressurized... which it will be if you are trying to bleed the system.

OK I checked it yesterday while cold and the measure stick goes all the way up as far as it can.
When I open the bleed screw there was coolant there up to the top also.
I am wanting to bleed the air out and make the level right after changing out my ET last week.
Does this sound correct???

[thrillcat]

Just checking back into this.

Coolant was about a liter low, topped off. Bled the system. Seems better, but temps also haven't been below 0ºF like they were, so I can't be sure.

Shop also said I should be keeping the stratified air dial all the way to the 3-red dots and dialing back to cool it off, since all it really does is mix in some fresh air. I was under the impression it should be kept in the middle as a default and adjusted either way...

Regardless, it seems better, but temps are also much more mild. Haven't had any snow/cold to really tell if it's taken care of and if the defrost can keep up. Time will tell at this point. I'll be in touch.

[crystalworks]

Here's the procedure.

1. Start car and get up to operating temperature.

2. Set heater fan and temp to full (so full fan and 90 degrees)

3. Set the temp wheel between the vents to the 3 red dots for full heat

4. Open bleed screw and watch for air bubbles

5. Close bleed screw when clean flow of coolant with no bubbles

6. Let engine cool down, check the coolant level and top up as necessary.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Here's the procedure.

1. Start car and get up to operating temperature.

2. Set heater fan and temp to full (so full fan and 90 degrees)

3. Set the temp wheel between the vents to the 3 red dots for full heat

4. Open bleed screw and watch for air bubbles

5. Close bleed screw when clean flow of coolant with no bubbles

6. Let engine cool down, check the coolant level and top up as necessary.

Thanks!!!


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[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by CrazyOneToo

Thanks!!!


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No problem. I forgot to mention in there that during step 4 you might want to blip the throttle and rev it up to like 3000rpm a few times to help dislodge any stuck air bubbles or pockets.

[Doru]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Here's the procedure.

1. Start car and get up to operating temperature.

2. Set heater fan and temp to full (so full fan and 90 degrees)

3. Set the temp wheel between the vents to the 3 red dots for full heat

4. Open bleed screw and watch for air bubbles

5. Close bleed screw when clean flow of coolant with no bubbles

6. Let engine cool down, check the coolant level and top up as necessary.

I think the correct procedure of bleeding any BMW is slightly different than what was posted above. Here is what's the Bentley & TIS has for procedure:

• set the temp all the way to Max, fan speed at min
• key in pos II, engine off, cold engine - this will start the aux pump for the heater core
• open expansion tank & bleed screw(s) (pending on model - some have 2)
• Level is low - slowly add coolant while monitoring the bleed screw(s) - air should hiss out
• coolant level stabilizes close to max, steady stream of coolant is coming out of the bleed screw(s). tighten the bleed screw(s) - not much force
• adjust the level as indicated on the exp tank
• close expansion tank & hood
• go for a drive 2 blocks should be OK.
• re-check the coolant level (engine is still not warm) & top if necessary
• Take car for a drive until reaches operating temp.
• Stop the car & wait until engine is cold.
• Check again level & top if necessary. Done

if the coolant level still drops after this, there might be a coolant leak somewhere, and a pressure test should be performed.

GL

P.S.: Forgot to mention: car should be on a level surface, but preferably have the front ever so slightly higher than the rear.