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  #31  
Old 02-11-2015, 02:44 PM
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Not wishing to hi-jack this thread- is my assumption correct that there is no split for air between the defrost and lower vents. Our problem is recently we were out in -45C and we could either boil the whole car out by setting to defrost or drive in controlled comfort with the AUTO setting. X5 does not split air nor control temp of defrost then???
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  #32  
Old 02-23-2015, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
If you open the console the rear compartment of the two will pull out. Once you have pulled it out look at the rear toward the vent you will see a vertical piece that is almost as wide as the compartment. That piece can be out of place if someone has been working in that area. I have not seen it get out of place on it's own but it is easy to check. The piece also just pulls out. It connects to the incoming air and links to the rear air duct inlet.
Ok great, I checked the area you suggested and it seemed the duct may have been out of place a little. I didn't check if air was blowing out of the top of that duct piece before I removed it. I took it out and replaced it as best I could in line with the bottom section and lots of air is blowing out of the top of it now. I then aligned the top of it but alas still no air out of the rear vent. I'm now thinking it could possibly be the vent open/close rotary may have something detached or broken. Is the removal of the vent a pain?

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  #33  
Old 02-23-2015, 03:13 PM
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Nope, easy. Rear vent removes easily with 2 philips head screws which should be visible if you have access to that duct already. They will be just under the lid hinge mechanism.

Edit: There is small micro switch in there too attached that could have been damaged which tells the blower motor how much air you want.
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  #34  
Old 02-23-2015, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Nope, easy. Rear vent removes easily with 2 philips head screws which should be visible if you have access to that duct already. They will be just under the lid hinge mechanism.

Edit: There is small micro switch in there too attached that could have been damaged which tells the blower motor how much air you want.
Ok I'll check that out as soon as I can. The blower does turn on and off via the power switch. I can hear it blowing alot just the air seems to be going elsewhere or being blocked by the vent. Ill check the switch also tho. Thanks
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  #35  
Old 02-23-2015, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoser View Post
Not wishing to hi-jack this thread- is my assumption correct that there is no split for air between the defrost and lower vents. Our problem is recently we were out in -45C and we could either boil the whole car out by setting to defrost or drive in controlled comfort with the AUTO setting. X5 does not split air nor control temp of defrost then???
Yes...you can split between defrost vents, dash vents, and floor vents. That's what the buttons along the left side of the IHKA are for...the ones above the AUTO button. If the green LED is lit...then the air distribution is NOT in AUTO mode but blowing from the vents you've selected (see pic below).

It sounds like you've fallen victim to thinking that the RAPID DEFROST/DE-ICE button is the regular defrost button...it is NOT. That button is a special program button (like the MAX button) that is used for quick defrost/de-ice and removal of condensation...just like written in the owners manual.

To have controlled temperature and fans speed blowing toward the windshield...then use the regular defrost button.





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Last edited by Qsilver7; 02-23-2015 at 05:39 PM.
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  #36  
Old 02-24-2015, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Nope, easy. Rear vent removes easily with 2 philips head screws which should be visible if you have access to that duct already. They will be just under the lid hinge mechanism.

Edit: There is small micro switch in there too attached that could have been damaged which tells the blower motor how much air you want.
I checked this out earlier and where the on/off switch is, there is also a plastic arm on the side by the switch that was hooked to some sort of lever that won't budge. I assume that must open the vent up for air flow. I didn't try very hard to move it. I didn't want to break it. I will investigate more at another time when I can get the vent out completely. Actually I couldn't see right away where all the wiring unplugs. One plug is obvious but the other ones are not so much. I'm guessing the way to unplug the wires must be covered. I didn't have much time to study it and also it was around 20 degrees today. I will soon tho.
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  #37  
Old 02-25-2015, 09:49 AM
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To check back in on this, my indy topped off the coolant but said I needed to keep the stratified air dial on the dash more into the red. I had assumed it was meant to live in the middle to allow adjustments either way, but he said that's constantly letting in outside air temp, thus making it not as warm.

I've been keeping it closer to the red-2 setting and it definitely gets warm enough. But the dash vents always did a better job than the others. I used some compressed air on the return flow vent on the panel of the IHKA and that seems to have things working much better. Less fluctuation in the fan speed and more accurate temps.

I'm dropping it off for a week next month while I go on vacation and the thermostat is one of the things on my list for them to go through, along with several others.
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  #38  
Old 02-25-2015, 02:48 PM
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I thank you Qsilver7 for your enlightenment. Who would have thought an arrow pointing skyward would become a new international symbol for "regular defrost". We will at least now be able to winter travel in more comfort than before- I thank you for that. There are some things in a vehicle one assumes will be done to standards universally accepted-I guess BMW has another universe.
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  #39  
Old 02-25-2015, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoser View Post
I thank you Qsilver7 for your enlightenment. Who would have thought an arrow pointing skyward would become a new international symbol for "regular defrost". We will at least now be able to winter travel in more comfort than before- I thank you for that. There are some things in a vehicle one assumes will be done to standards universally accepted-I guess BMW has another universe.
No problem. I could only imagine the discomfort of using the rapid defrost/de-ice in times when regular defrost would work just fine.

I'm grateful for this programmed option...because the times you need it (heavy condensation or humidity in the air at the same time the ambient temps are cool enough that all the windows are wanting to stay constantly fogged over)...it's a God-send. But for normal use...it is definitely overkill.
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  #40  
Old 02-25-2015, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
Here's the procedure.

1. Start car and get up to operating temperature.

2. Set heater fan and temp to full (so full fan and 90 degrees)

3. Set the temp wheel between the vents to the 3 red dots for full heat

4. Open bleed screw and watch for air bubbles

5. Close bleed screw when clean flow of coolant with no bubbles

6. Let engine cool down, check the coolant level and top up as necessary.
I think the correct procedure of bleeding any BMW is slightly different than what was posted above. Here is what's the Bentley & TIS has for procedure:

  • set the temp all the way to Max, fan speed at min
  • key in pos II, engine off, cold engine - this will start the aux pump for the heater core
  • open expansion tank & bleed screw(s) (pending on model - some have 2)
  • Level is low - slowly add coolant while monitoring the bleed screw(s) - air should hiss out
  • coolant level stabilizes close to max, steady stream of coolant is coming out of the bleed screw(s). tighten the bleed screw(s) - not much force
  • adjust the level as indicated on the exp tank
  • close expansion tank & hood
  • go for a drive 2 blocks should be OK.
  • re-check the coolant level (engine is still not warm) & top if necessary
  • Take car for a drive until reaches operating temp.
  • Stop the car & wait until engine is cold.
  • Check again level & top if necessary. Done
if the coolant level still drops after this, there might be a coolant leak somewhere, and a pressure test should be performed.

GL

P.S.: Forgot to mention: car should be on a level surface, but preferably have the front ever so slightly higher than the rear.
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