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#1
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Charger for use during programming?
I'm looking for a charger that will hold voltage over 13V for programming and diagnostics. Most smaller trickle chargers aren't big enough to keep the battery alive during extended programming. I have a large booster, but it doesn't get the voltage up over 13V. I've seen some in shops, but have not been able to find what they are using. Anyone have one they use/recommend? Thanks.
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Daily Drivers: - 2008 535i, 320,000km - 2004 X5 4.4, 01/2004 production, 420,000km - 1997 328i, 350,000km Track: - 1996 328i, track/race car, ~300,000km Winter: - 2013 Ski-Doo MXZ X 800 E-TEC, trail can - 2007 Ski-Doo MXZ Blizzard 800 HO - 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 w/800 engine, exhaust - 1978 Ski-Doo Olympique 340 (vintage race sled) - 1977 Ski-Doo Olympique 340E |
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#2
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The newer generation chargers are too small for that. The good news is the old style (cheap) chargers will be up to the task. you need charge rates around 10Amps. If it's set to 2 Amps, the battery will be discharged very quickly while doing programming.
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Stable: e92is, e46 M54B25, e83 N52, e53 N62 - sold, e39 M54B30 R.I.P. |
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#3
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Charger for use during programming?
I recall reading something recently from BMW (some sort of manual excerpt ) suggesting you should have a power supply capable of providing 40 amps? That sure seems like a lot but, I actually had this exact same question so I am glad it was asked.
I've knocked my battery down a few times doing diagnostics with DIS that required me to hook up my little jumpstart pack to start the car again. How about hooking up a jumpstart pack to supplement the battery with a little extra juice? Not the best long-term solution but might help you keep the battery happy while the ignition is on for an extended amount of time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Garrett Fell 2014 Honda Pilot - The *new* wife mobile 2005 BMW X5 - 4.4i - It's mine now! 2003 Honda CRV - My train car 1959 VW Beetle - My toy (13.18 @ 100.86 in the 1/4) |
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#4
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I wouldn't use a jumpstart pack - too hard. I should have probably said "at least 10 Amps".
The conventional chargers are like the modern chargers build for different battery size(s). For our battery, the smallest charger will have the 10Amp setting, that's why I mentioned that. Also, there are conventional chargers that can go to 75Amps, which I think is too much and might do harm. Even the 40 Amps seems a tad on the hi-side...
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Stable: e92is, e46 M54B25, e83 N52, e53 N62 - sold, e39 M54B30 R.I.P. |
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#5
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I have also heard that the mechanics select 40-50 amps during diagnostics. However, I have always selected 10 amps during prolonged programming and never had issues. BTW... Alternator output is around 50 amps while driving.
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2004 X5 4.4i 2001 E46 M3 1995 E34 525i 2008 Acura MDX 1984 Maserati 2011 997 Turbo |
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#6
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Any brand recommendations so I can hunt one down? I've seen ones (in videos) that let you set the voltage and it'll keep it at that.
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Daily Drivers: - 2008 535i, 320,000km - 2004 X5 4.4, 01/2004 production, 420,000km - 1997 328i, 350,000km Track: - 1996 328i, track/race car, ~300,000km Winter: - 2013 Ski-Doo MXZ X 800 E-TEC, trail can - 2007 Ski-Doo MXZ Blizzard 800 HO - 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 w/800 engine, exhaust - 1978 Ski-Doo Olympique 340 (vintage race sled) - 1977 Ski-Doo Olympique 340E |
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#7
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I have 10amp charger which hasn't fail me yet throughout multiple codings and NAV update for my MB which takes about 2 hours.
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#8
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I haven't got into coding, but I started looking for these a while ago when I was having ABS module problems. The schumacher INC-700A shows up several places (around $400) and some have said it similar to the snap-on power supply sold for coding. Decided not to DIY, so didn't look for cheaper alternatives.
FWIW, if these things are labelled a "power supply" it will provide a (fairly) constant voltage and vary the current within its limits to do that. A "charger" will push a certain amount of current even if the voltage increases (as in charging a battery) or decreases, which can be bad in that the voltage may move out of range and the coding abort.
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David.X5 2001 X5 4.4i Sport SOLD! at 160k miles |
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#9
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Power supply, not charger - that did it. I imagine something like this would work.
http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-TM-.../dp/B004OLJHCI You could use the pot to dial in the voltage at say 13.5 to make sure it never dips below. 20A I would guess would be enough to not allow the battery to drain while programming. I'll check my local electronics store and see what I can cook up.
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Daily Drivers: - 2008 535i, 320,000km - 2004 X5 4.4, 01/2004 production, 420,000km - 1997 328i, 350,000km Track: - 1996 328i, track/race car, ~300,000km Winter: - 2013 Ski-Doo MXZ X 800 E-TEC, trail can - 2007 Ski-Doo MXZ Blizzard 800 HO - 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 w/800 engine, exhaust - 1978 Ski-Doo Olympique 340 (vintage race sled) - 1977 Ski-Doo Olympique 340E |
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#10
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I use this when its cold and im messing around in gt1 or inpa for a longer while.. Works great for other uses as well.. I think i paid about $30 from Harbor freight
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2006 X5 4.8is Fully Loaded
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