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  #41  
Old 02-06-2015, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riggodeaux View Post
I think the OP is getting good information out of this thread, just the kind of cautionary advice the DDs and CCs [as well as more sophisticated posters] can give from their own experience. As with any vehicle, its 'buyer beware,' and the OP is wise to come to this valuable resource for info before buying. Personally, I would not advise anyone buying an E53 [or any 9+ y/o bimmer, or most vehicles, for that matter] who is expecting bulletproof reliability/no problems or even the same problems you can expect from a 2-3 year old Honda Pilot/Toyota Highlander. At this stage, these are enthusiast vehicles, best owned by folks willing to accept frequent [and sometimes confusing/expensive] repair/maintenance issue in return for (1) a lower initial purchase price and (2) the aesthetic benefits [in terms of appearance/relative performance/handling] that an E53 gives. Most all the valuable contributors here [including in this thread] fit this category.

As for me, I'll spend most of my Sunday this weekend [having already invested some hours in research/diagnosis/parts search] replacing a secondary air pump valve, spark plugs, O2 sensors, valve cover gasket, and oil change while also inspecting for other issues. It will save maybe a thousand bucks or so over having a dealer/shop do the same, and can also be therapeutic! On Monday, I'll fight the traffic in an ultimate driving machine, making the commute a little more tolerable. I hope others here do the same!


A lot of the NOOBS that comes on this forum and other car forums just brought their first BMW and they believed in all the marketing hype about the car being German engineered (sorry to disappoint them but Land Rover did most of the heavy engineering on the first gen of Xs) and that they are buying a better car. They lack the knowledge to fix their X when it is broken and they lack the funds to bring it in to get it fix.

I know how to fix my fleet of cars and when I can't fix it I have the funds to bring it in or donate it to an organization and just buy something else.

My advice to first time buyer is if they aren't a DIYer and the car doesn't have a warranty, a used BMW, PORSCHE or LOTUS is not the right car for them. Better to have a running car then a car park on the driveway.

Here's a good example as to why a NOOB should have come here first and asked questions before buying a BMW.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ml#post1026647
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD

Last edited by upallnight; 02-06-2015 at 01:31 PM.
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  #42  
Old 02-06-2015, 02:27 PM
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The OP is familiar with BMW's. He's not familiar with e53.

Hence, there are a few common tell-tale signs for specific e53 models, that even after an inspection don't show up, but they show after you drive the vehicle.

I will try do make some of these points (stuff that is considered "common"), maybe some others can chime in. By model would be great.

2004-2006 e53 N62:
  • Assuming visual inspection checks out, incl under the hood, see how "tight" it feels when opening the hood. If it feels "tight", the cables could be rusted, on the way out. Easy & cheap fix, to be done ASAP, so you don't end up busting the grille to access cables. This is valid for ALL e53 models, I believe.
  • if the rear wheels seem to have a high camber, especially with wheels considered "small" (17" - 18"), probably the rear ball joints are toast. The only way to check, is one side of the car in the air, and deflate the air bag, otherwise it will put pressure on the suspension component, and it will feel tight. Once the air is out, if the ball joint is toast, the wheel will wiggle.
  • Rear of transmission - check for oil leak. if it leaks, the sealing sleeve is toast. This part has been replaced with an updated part, that has black O-rings (the original has red ones), and will not leak anymore. Having low ATF level will induce a lag & a hard shift felt as a "clunk" when slowing down, the trying to accelerate, or when going from reverse to drive. Was on my N62, not sure about previous models
  • Once the engine is warmed up to operating temp, idling for a few minutes, then revving the engine - if it puffs a blue/black cloud of smoke - usually a bunch of seals & gaskets are gone and the debatable valve stem seals as well. N62 engine
  • This one, not sure how explain: If the car sits in the cold after it was driven (not garaged, or in non-heated garage) and there is coolant drip: pending from where it drips: a.) could be the lower radiator hose (very common) or b.) the cooling pipe starts coming apart. Has to be assessed carefully. N62 engine.
  • If the car has more than 100k miles, and the engine rattles, could be chain guides. M62 engine.
  • The M54 engine to test for issues, prior to starting it up, make sure the engine is stone cold. Most issues will unveil once you start it up. A warm engine can be started multiple times, no ill signs will show up.
  • On all models, the front CV boots can go - this should be a mandatory pre-purchase inspection. It's a normal wear & tear item, but can get expensive if not caught in time.
  • Rear air bags (not sure how long they actually last) - on my car I caught them "red handed" after the car sat outside in -20°C (-4°F) - I was visiting friends, and when I left, I could hear the compressor going steady. This didn't happen with the car garaged. Situation repeated throughout the winter when I had to park the car in the cold. New bags solved the issue (Arnott). Easy and relatively cheap fix.
  • If living in a cold environment, CCV on M54 need TLC, if equipped with OE system. Should be replaced with cold weather CCV including re-designed dipstick (otherwise it's pointless).
  • Some irritating rear view mirror issues (easy DYI fixes), pixilation of the cluster and HU (can be repaired for good)
  • Seems like the M62 & M54 engines are more susceptible to cooling issues than the N62 counterpart - I mean the rubber hoses, expansion tank, valley pan gasket, although the N62 has some other voes mentioned above.
I am sure there might be other things, but I believe these are the most frequent/mentioned over the years.
I also believe that these cars are quite reliable if the owner has a scheduled maintenance record of the car, sticks to it, and checks it out periodically for unforeseen issues that can arise on any model/make of a used vehicle.
I have no issue with my cars, and I own 3 different models BMW, each with it's own specifics, but as I said, in the end I'm very happy how they perform.
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  #43  
Old 02-06-2015, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru View Post
The OP is familiar with BMW's. He's not familiar with e53.

Hence, there are a few common tell-tale signs for specific e53 models, that even after an inspection don't show up, but they show after you drive the vehicle.

I will try do make some of these points (stuff that is considered "common"), maybe some others can chime in. By model would be great.

2004-2006 e53 N62:
  • Assuming visual inspection checks out, incl under the hood, see how "tight" it feels when opening the hood. If it feels "tight", the cables could be rusted, on the way out. Easy & cheap fix, to be done ASAP, so you don't end up busting the grille to access cables. This is valid for ALL e53 models, I believe.
  • if the rear wheels seem to have a high camber, especially with wheels considered "small" (17" - 18"), probably the rear ball joints are toast. The only way to check, is one side of the car in the air, and deflate the air bag, otherwise it will put pressure on the suspension component, and it will feel tight. Once the air is out, if the ball joint is toast, the wheel will wiggle.
  • Rear of transmission - check for oil leak. if it leaks, the sealing sleeve is toast. This part has been replaced with an updated part, that has black O-rings (the original has red ones), and will not leak anymore. Having low ATF level will induce a lag & a hard shift felt as a "clunk" when slowing down, the trying to accelerate, or when going from reverse to drive. Was on my N62, not sure about previous models
  • Once the engine is warmed up to operating temp, idling for a few minutes, then revving the engine - if it puffs a blue/black cloud of smoke - usually a bunch of seals & gaskets are gone and the debatable valve stem seals as well. N62 engine
  • This one, not sure how explain: If the car sits in the cold after it was driven (not garaged, or in non-heated garage) and there is coolant drip: pending from where it drips: a.) could be the lower radiator hose (very common) or b.) the cooling pipe starts coming apart. Has to be assessed carefully. N62 engine.
  • If the car has more than 100k miles, and the engine rattles, could be chain guides. M62 engine.
  • The M54 engine to test for issues, prior to starting it up, make sure the engine is stone cold. Most issues will unveil once you start it up. A warm engine can be started multiple times, no ill signs will show up.
  • On all models, the front CV boots can go - this should be a mandatory pre-purchase inspection. It's a normal wear & tear item, but can get expensive if not caught in time.
  • Rear air bags (not sure how long they actually last) - on my car I caught them "red handed" after the car sat outside in -20°C (-4°F) - I was visiting friends, and when I left, I could hear the compressor going steady. This didn't happen with the car garaged. Situation repeated throughout the winter when I had to park the car in the cold. New bags solved the issue (Arnott). Easy and relatively cheap fix.
  • If living in a cold environment, CCV on M54 need TLC, if equipped with OE system. Should be replaced with cold weather CCV including re-designed dipstick (otherwise it's pointless).
  • Some irritating rear view mirror issues (easy DYI fixes), pixilation of the cluster and HU (can be repaired for good)
  • Seems like the M62 & M54 engines are more susceptible to cooling issues than the N62 counterpart - I mean the rubber hoses, expansion tank, valley pan gasket, although the N62 has some other voes mentioned above.
I am sure there might be other things, but I believe these are the most frequent/mentioned over the years.
I also believe that these cars are quite reliable if the owner has a scheduled maintenance record of the car, sticks to it, and checks it out periodically for unforeseen issues that can arise on any model/make of a used vehicle.
I have no issue with my cars, and I own 3 different models BMW, each with it's own specifics, but as I said, in the end I'm very happy how they perform.
Great information-in a positive and constructive presentation--as it should be done!
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  #44  
Old 02-06-2015, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post


A lot of the NOOBS that comes on this forum and other car forums just brought their first BMW and they believed in all the marketing hype about the car being German engineered (sorry to disappoint them but Land Rover did most of the heavy engineering on the first gen of Xs) and that they are buying a better car. They lack the knowledge to fix their X when it is broken and they lack the funds to bring it in to get it fix.

I know how to fix my fleet of cars and when I can't fix it I have the funds to bring it in or donate it to an organization and just buy something else.

My advice to first time buyer is if they aren't a DIYer and the car doesn't have a warranty, a used BMW, PORSCHE or LOTUS is not the right car for them. Better to have a running car then a car park on the driveway.

Here's a good example as to why a NOOB should have come here first and asked questions before buying a BMW.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ml#post1026647
It doesn't matter the circumstances surrounding a new member. If they ask a question they should expect a courteous answer. If you feel they shouldn't have purchased an X5 help them make the most of it or ignore the thread. Look at your posts from the standpoint of you being the OP and consider what you would think of the forum and his posts to you. Same goes for the link you posted. Sometimes your posts are great and sometimes you seem to be mad at the world and want everyone to share your pain.

I support your advice until you got to the part where you more than imply if OP doesn't meet your criteria that the X5 will be sitting in the driveway most of the time. I noticed in your link you posted another great greeting to a new member. I don't condone the manner that OP responded but I applaud that he stood up for himself.

I still don't get why you own an X5. You are taking something you believe is unreliable and submitting it to above normal stress. There are so many other vehicles that will do the same thing that you obviously think are more worthy of that trust.
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  #45  
Old 02-06-2015, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
It doesn't matter the circumstances surrounding a new member. If they ask a question they should expect a courteous answer. If you feel they shouldn't have purchased an X5 help them make the most of it or ignore the thread. Look at your posts from the standpoint of you being the OP and consider what you would think of the forum and his posts to you. Same goes for the link you posted. Sometimes your posts are great and sometimes you seem to be mad at the world and want everyone to share your pain.

I support your advice until you got to the part where you more than imply if OP doesn't meet your criteria that the X5 will be sitting in the driveway most of the time. I noticed in your link you posted another great greeting to a new member. I don't condone the manner that OP responded but I applaud that he stood up for himself.

I still don't get why you own an X5. You are taking something you believe is unreliable and submitting it to above normal stress. There are so many other vehicles that will do the same thing that you obviously think are more worthy of that trust.
I have already explained in past posts why I own a X5, you just need to read all my posts. I am not the only one that posted problems with the X to the OP on this thread, why don't you get on their cases?
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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  #46  
Old 02-06-2015, 06:18 PM
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Bcredliner,

The guy gets his jollys from trolling and just posting negative shit in general to get a reaction. Its obvious by his posts on the other forum which appears to be his main dumping group as there is a high member turn over rate. Just ignore the negative posts as he is just trying to bring you down onto his level.
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  #47  
Old 02-06-2015, 11:17 PM
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Upallnights humor is dry and sarcastic you have to get used to it. I don't mind one bit and he is mostly helpful here
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  #48  
Old 02-07-2015, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
I have already explained in past posts why I own a X5, you just need to read all my posts. I am not the only one that posted problems with the X to the OP on this thread, why don't you get on their cases?
My initial post on DDs did not mention anyone by name. I responded to your post directed to me. I agree with Ricky Bobby your posts can be great and extremely helpful. I enjoy sarcastic dry humor. I certainly recognize the sarcasm--missing the humor. That could be my shortcoming. It is hard to recognize sarcastic humor unless you are face to face to see body language and and also know the other person very well. I apologize to anyone annoyed by our exchange which includes apologizing to myself. I'll be more careful in the future.
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  #49  
Old 02-09-2015, 11:28 AM
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A gracious post, bcredliner, well said. A good example for us all.
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  #50  
Old 02-15-2015, 06:10 PM
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I'm a long time BMW owner. I've had two E36s and two E46s. I know the M50 and M52 motors pretty well -- the outsides of them at least. I do not know the 4.4, 4.6, and 4.8 V8s.

I drove two 4.4L cars, one with the wrong tires and one with worn out tires, and both of these had what I think were wheel bearing noises, and they absolutely had loud tires. They were not pleasant at all.

Last week I drove a 4.4 and a 3.0 that were nice, so the first two cars were nothing more than bad specimens.

Yesterday, I drove a delightful 3.0. It's at the top of my Short List. I have another that I want to go see, but the seller is not responding -- Valentine's Weekend might be getting in my way.

The car that made it to my Short List has a stunning interior color, and the engine bay is as clean the day it got pushed off the end of the assembly line. Panorama Roof, Nav, and PDC. It's an '05 with the 3.0. The Nav screen has some dead spots that almost look as if the screen was pushed in or something. Information that should be displayed was hidden in those areas -- there were two.

The car I want to see is also an '05, 3.0. This one has more options, including video screens in the headrests. It also has fewer miles. The color combination is not unique in any way. (I'm sounding like the guy that was telling his friends that he just bought a new car. They ask, what kind is it? He replies, a white one.)

Back to my first post, I was disappointed at the way the cars felt and sounded. I've since driven a different V8, and an I6, all of these cars are far better than the first two.

I am familiar with the M54 engine, and I'm inclined to do my own maintenance so I think I will probably get the M54. The V8 engine is the N62, is that right? In any case, I was pretty happy with the 3.0's performance. It's better than I expected, and I was willing to figure out the V8 if the 6 was too weak. I don't think the 6 is so weak that I need to avoid it. I started my search with only looking to the 4.4 as the power plant, I have since changed my mind.

The car I am waiting to see has sport seats, panoramic roof, nav, and only 87k miles. Both cars are one-owner cars, one has the factory window sticker and was driven by a woman -- presumably she has a lighter foot than a man might have. I'm about ready to pull the trigger, and I'm looking forward to it.


How much does the nav screen cost?

Also, the CD changer choked on a CD that will not come out so the seller took it out. I could get the CD out if he gave me the changer, but he tossed it. I think the changers are not difficult to find, if they are common among all of the cars.
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