DIY: Replacing Engine Mounts on 4.4i

[squidzilla]

I don't have a 4.4 x5 but I do have the N62 in my 545i, so thanks. I saw your post on the pelican parts DIY where you corrected them on some things. I think they should give you a nice discount for bringing that to their attention.

[admranger]

You're welcome guys! Glad I could help.

[X5only]

Originally Posted by admranger

Ok V8 owners, gather 'round for my tale of how to DIY the motor mounts, or if you prefer, engine mounts on my 2005 4.4i X5.

First of all, I didn't take any pics b/c when I got started I was using the DIY on Pelican Parts -- turns out it was only good for the 3.0 X5's...

Motor mounts:

2 of 22116770793

Torx bolts and mount nuts (if you want to be correct)

4 of 22111096940
2 of 33306760587

If you decide to change the front flex disc at the same time, you'll need the flex disc: 26117503159
And, if you want to be correct, the following bolts/nuts:

3 of 26117551225
3 of 26207564559
3 of 07129904473

Tools (that I remember) besides what you need to get the car in the air:

-E12 internal torx socket
-E18 internal torx socket
-3/8 stiff universal joint (floppy ones need not apply -- feed yours viagra or get a new one)
-3/8 extensions to get to 24 inches, or, if you are lucky like me, use your -Snappy 24" 3/8 extension
-3/8 ratchet wrench
-3/8 flex head ratchet wrench (just so you don't think I'm a tool snob, I used one from Harbor Freight since I didn't have one handy - Pittsburg brand and it worked great!)
-3/8 torque wrench
-16mm deep 3/8 socket
-16mm shallow 3/8 socket
-a couple pry bars
-1/2 ratchet
-18mm 1/2 socket
-16mm 1/2 socket (not mandatory, but the bolts on the flex disc are on there pretty tightly)
-16mm combination wrench
-jack and some scrap 2x4 or other wood block(s)
-10mm combination wrench -- you can use this on the e12 torx headed bolts on the motor mounts, but I don't advise it except for running them in when space is limited
-some grease
-a 2x4 about 12" long or so (to hold wheel away from X5 while you pry the half-shaft out)

Ok, so here's the step by step as I remember it (minus a whole lot of cursing).

Use the long 3/8 extension, regular 3/8 ratchet, and 3/8 universal joint (plus appropriate sockets) for the following two steps:

-Remove the front E12 torx bolt on the driver's side mount
-Remove 16mm nut from driver's side mount

Put the X5 in the air at this point.

-Remove stiffener plate (yeah, you're supposed to replace the bolts but no one does -- outside of some here)
-Remove the torx bolts and take the other motor mount nut off (flex head 3/8 ratchet will be your friend here!) -- also it may be useful to jack (and wood bits) the driver's side of the engine up a bit for access to the rear most torx bolt.

Now things get interesting...move the jack to the passenger side of the oil pan and jack it up as far as it will go (hint: the axle will hit the body, limiting how far things go).
-back the three front subframe bolts from the passenger side out 4-5 full turns, use a pry bar, if necessary, to give you room to twist the motor mount out -- even if you take them out all the way nothing bad will happen
-twist/turn/slide the new motor mount in
-slowly lower the jack while simultaneously snaking the motor mount stud through the hole in the support arm
-hand screw in the front and rear torx bolts and the nut on the motor mount stud -- do not tighten yet!
-if you totally unscrewed the subframe bolts then, screw them back in and then back out 4-5 turns

-Lower the jack and move to the driver's side of the oil pan, but do NOT jack that side up yet.

-use the 18mm 1/2 inch socket, 1/2 ratchet, and 16mm combination wrench to remove the bolt in the driver's side center control arm (at the engine end)
-use the 12" 2x4 to prop the wheel out from the body of the X5
-use your pry bar to pop the driver's side half-shaft out from the front diff, push the axle out of the way towards the rear of the car
-Use the 16mm 1/2 inch socket, 1/2 ratchet, and 16mm combination wrench to remove the front flex disc bolts out of the flex disc -- do the three that thread into the front diff first, then the three with the nuts
-use a pry bar to pry the front driveshaft all the way back as far as it will go (this will take some force, especially for those of you up north as the grease has dried up and there may be rust)
-take the flex disc out
-take the front drive shaft out, clean the splines (on the driveshaft and transfer case), and apply a good lube like molycoat or redline synthetic grease, set aside for reinstallation later
-Now jack the driver's side of the oil pan up
-Unscrew all the three e18 subframe all the way out
-Use the pry bar to pry the back of the front subframe down
-wiggle the driver's side motor mount out
-wiggle new motor mount in, lower the jack enough to get the motor mount stud through the hole (but not all the way), then hand tighten the E12 torx bolts, then tighten the rear E12 torx bolt with the socket and flex head ratchet
-put the axle shaft into the front diff
-lower the jack the rest of the way
-take the 12" 2x4 out and push the wheel in so the axle snaps back into place
-reattach the center control arm, but only hand tighten the nut as you have to have the wheel at ride height before torquing
-snug all the subframe bolts up, then torque to 100Nm (only torque value that I remember right now)
-tighten the passenger side torx bolts and the top nut
-reinstall the front driveshaft and flex disc (pay attention to the arrows on the flex disc)
-make sure you've tightened everything you loosened underneath the car
-put the car on the ground and tighen the top nut and torx bolt of the driver's side motor mount

drink heavily as you've successfully changed the motor mounts (and done some preventative maintenance on your front drive shaft splines).

Great write up! Wanted to add that I did not remove the drive shaft or flex disc on my 2005 4.4! All I did was drop the subframe a good 3 -4 inches and there was just enough space to wiggle out the driver side engine mount. The Passenger side was easy after this drop. I removed all the subframe bolts.

Not a hard job after the subframe is dropped. I did this project on my back in my garage - no lift. I have one of those tiny cheapo harborfrieght floor jack that came in very handy in lifting the subframe now and then.

[nextelbuddy]

So I'm tackling this job. I started this morning and 8 hours later. I just got one driver side mount in following all the steps in this thread. I double checked and reread and nowhere did I see anybody mention that you should loosen the steering rack unless I missed it somewhere... When I tried using a pry bar to pry down the subframe it started leaking power steering fluid from the top of the rack where the steering joint goes in.

At leaked so much fluid while I had it pried open to get that mount out. It stopped leaking when I put the subframe back up so I hope that it's not going to start leaking more later.

Did none of you guys have that problem?

[X5only]

Originally Posted by nextelbuddy

So I'm tackling this job. I started this morning and 8 hours later. I just got one driver side mount in following all the steps in this thread. I double checked and reread and nowhere did I see anybody mention that you should loosen the steering rack unless I missed it somewhere... When I tried using a pry bar to pry down the subframe it started leaking power steering fluid from the top of the rack where the steering joint goes in.

At leaked so much fluid while I had it pried open to get that mount out. It stopped leaking when I put the subframe back up so I hope that it's not going to start leaking more later.

Did none of you guys have that problem?

I didn't need to force down the subframe. I must have loosened the steering rack. When you observe so much force is needed, best to pause and re-assess the situation. Having to use a pry bar would make me worry something is not right

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by nextelbuddy

So I'm tackling this job. I started this morning and 8 hours later. I just got one driver side mount in following all the steps in this thread. I double checked and reread and nowhere did I see anybody mention that you should loosen the steering rack unless I missed it somewhere... When I tried using a pry bar to pry down the subframe it started leaking power steering fluid from the top of the rack where the steering joint goes in.

At leaked so much fluid while I had it pried open to get that mount out. It stopped leaking when I put the subframe back up so I hope that it's not going to start leaking more later.

Did none of you guys have that problem?

Did you see my diy on the job? It mentions your exact situation. You absolutely must disconnect the steering rack from the shaft up top. Or, my choice, which was unbolt the rack from the subframe. If you did not tear the seal... You'll be fine.

Don't forget to disconnect your leveling arm electrical connections or you risk tearing/beaking them....

[nextelbuddy]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Did you see my diy on the job? It mentions your exact situation. You absolutely must disconnect the steering rack from the shaft up top. Or, my choice, which was unbolt the rack from the subframe. If you did not tear the seal... You'll be fine.



Don't forget to disconnect your leveling arm electrical connections or you risk tearing/beaking them....

Yes, I stumbled upon your DIY after I read this one which didn't mention undoing the steering rack.

Regardless, I should have moved a little bit slower and more methodically and just unbolted the steering rack.

Actually did try to unbolt the steering rack but I could not get the e14 torx to budge or e12. Whatever it was. I use the breaker bar and an impact gun and would not budge. I was frustrated and the steering rack was leaking pretty heavily but it stopped leaking as soon as I have pushed the subframe back into place after changing the mount out.

I will know for sure once. I actually pressurize the steering rack with the pump and the engine on and see if it leaks anymore.


I think this is the most frustrating job I have ever done on any of my cars. I don't think I would wish an n62 e53 engine mount job on anybody.


It's pretty crazy. I can convert a e46 330 sedan to an M3, I can install a custom turbo kit from the ground up, I can do bathroom and living room renovations... But I can't change engine mounts on an n62 e53 without pulling my hair out.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by nextelbuddy

I think this is the most frustrating job I have ever done on any of my cars. I don't think I would wish an n62 e53 engine mount job on anybody.


It's pretty crazy. I can convert a e46 330 sedan to an M3, I can install a custom turbo kit from the ground up, I can do bathroom and living room renovations... But I can't change engine mounts on an n62 e53 without pulling my hair out.

Fingers crossed for you.

If you think this job is bad... you should R&R the transmission on an E70 diesel equipped with DPF and other emissions gear. THAT... sucked. And my reward was being locked out by the DME in a no-start condition due to DEF fluid error. Even though it had no codes before trans swap. Fun stuff.