Remove front clip and pull motor?

[StephenVA]

Great job and congrats on "plowing through" all the odds and ends that come up on a project of this size. Rear suspension is easy including the lower control arm ball joint. make sure you have the right tool as it will make the job a 15 min push out push in process.

[bcredliner]

If I waited a month to do the reassembly I would have a small pile of fasters left over that I didn't know where they go. As a matter of fact if I only waited a couple of days I would likely have some.

[andrewwynn]

that's why i take a lot of photos along the way, also; when i change the timing chain covers i've used a piece of cardboard where i poke the 6mm (10 head) bolts in the same pattern; they have like 4 sizes so it's definitely a challenge to get back into the right holes

[Spanker]

How many hours to remove the front clip would any of you say?

[TriX5]

About 3 hours, quicker if you know what you are getting in to. Good idea to do what Andrew said, take a pile of pictures. It is not too bad to reconstruct but easier with pics.

I made the mistake of putting the bumper cover on before putting headlights in......not funny as putting the units back as one piece is not really possible with the cover in place.

Two pics of before and after a wash. Still need to install new belts (main belt is very chirpy and I suspect my A/C belt tensioner) and nav screen. Windscreen is cracked but not as bad as I thought and can wait till spring.

Could have done a bit more but the gen-1 Tundra needed emergency surgery to implant a new steering rack and I replaced the exhaust at the same time which I already had sitting in the garage for a few weeks.

[TriX5]

Although the battery survived for many years on a maintainer, it died after a few days more despite being on the charger. So, replaced the battery and also ordered a tensioner for the AC belt.

FCP Euro sent me a near empty box, only an unidentifiable steel cap in it..... I went ahead and swapped the belts as they were looking brittle. The customer service guys had the tensioner on my front porch the next day! Pretty good service from them over the course 8 orders I have to say. Parts arrive significantly quicker than from Pelican or Autohause.

The Nav screen only flickered when I got the car running. It revived for a few minutes but nothing since. Yesterday I put in a new screen which had been languishing in a closet, no luck. Ordered a replacement Nav from an Ebay source.

Yesterday I ran it on the beltway for a bit and nothing wrong but on restarts I still get an initial error with CEL, the engine stumbles for a few seconds, revving it gets it going and it settles in to a steady idle. My guess is that this will be the case until the Vanos seals wear-in a bit more. I will reset the codes once more and report them here.

[thesalboy]

Nice work! Do keep us posted.

Ground cross-country is slow for sure. I'd order more from FCP is they were closer. That said, Autohaus and RMEuropean shipping is not what it used to be. I used to get things next day for free, but now it takes 3-5 days, sometimes more. I only order (pick-up) from Pelican when they are the only source as they are usually more expensive.

[TriX5]

The NAV unit decided to revive after all....ofcourse after I ordered a replacement. It still dumps occasionally but the intervals in between are getting longer.

Installed the new AC belt tensioner and got the airbag recall done at the dealer. Then took it to be aligned and it looks and drives much better.

Been trying to figure out why I am having a persistent error 33 for Bank 2. In INPA live data shows about -2 deg for Bank 1 but -19.8 for Bank 2.

Swapped the CPS but that changed nothing. I disconnected the solenoids and checked the voltage on both connectors with the engine running, both are a notch over 10 Volts. So, I presume the electrical connection is fine. I checked inside the Bank 1 wiring-box and don't see anything untoward in there. Is there any way in INPA to activate the solenoids?

I think the next move is to swap the solenoids between Bank 1 and Bank 2 but it seems impossible to do so without removing the spider hose on the coolant pump.... Anyone have experience with a failed or stuck solenoid and the readings in INPA? Am I correct in thinking that the Bank 2 solenoid can only be removed by draining the coolant and removing the top hose?

I'd like to think that the basic timing of the engine is fine (it runs smoothly) and that the placement of the CPS trigger wheels is correct given that I used a timing kit and quadruple checked the settings.

[andrewwynn]

More than once in the past year somebody posted on xo that their reluctor wheel had gotten loose enough to move from its set position.

You can see the bank one wheel through the oil fill on m62 but I think you can check either bank for the wheel being loose by exploring through the cps port.

I initially hooked up the timing guide incorrectly the first time I set the timing on M62, did you take pictures?

I believe the solenoids are positioned with pwm if you have a DMM with duty cycle like higher end fluke you can confirm the signals make sense before attempting to remove them.

FYI don’t have to remove much coolant to remove the upper level houses maybe a pint no more than a quart.

I changed an aux coolant pump recently and I let out maybe a pint then when I disconnected the hoses I just lifted the end quickly to make it stop spilling. (I also put some plastic over the alternator to prevent coolant dribbling in there)

The most logical way to access the operating condition of the solenoid is to swap and see if the error swaps banks so that’s what I would do.



I took these last night to show my m54 requested vs actually cam positions. It’s extremely helpful to verify the cam can track the computer’s request.

[TriX5]

Andrew, thanks for the advice. I did as you suggested and switched the solenoids but unfortunately no change in symptoms. When I first started it after the switch, Bank 2 oscillated between -19 and 41 but once it warmed up a bit, it stayed on -19 again.

Now that the actuation and the sensors are no longer a consideration, I have to think what might be wrong with the mechanical items. The Vanos units were tight after I put the new seals in but not beyond reason. I replaced the rectangrings and the check valves. There should not be a major issue with either of those. I guess I will have to lift the driver's side valve cover to see what is going on with the timing.

I am about to get a Foxwell for the Cayenne, looks like I should get the BMW software as well.

Unfortunately I am away for a few weeks and it will be a while before I can get back to this problem.

EDIT: I checked my pictures of the timing and the timing looks in order. I wonder if the check-valve could be bad? If not I will have to take the vanos off anf check the distribution piece as well. Could I have damaged the Vanos seal when I installed it and have a loss of pressure? Will add pics a bit later.