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#1
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Engine Malfunction! Reduced Power Warning, Code Help Please.
Movi Pro Mac Diagnostics & Got These Codes. Mass Airflow Sensor Issues? Can anyone assist if you've had these codes before? Found these code explanations: http://engine-codes.com/p0112_bmw.html http://www.obd-codes.com/p0101 I took off the air filter housing and all looks good. It's a new K&N filter. I disconnected the plug that plugs into the MAF Sensor so I'll clear the codes and take it for a ride and see if it comes up again. Thank you!
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Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming: "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!" 2007 M6 2018 Chevy 2500HD Diesel Alaskan Edition 2011 X5 35d 1972 Chevy K20 4X4 1972 Ford F-600 1959 Chevy Viking 60 Dump Truck 2015 CanAm Outlander XT 1000 Last edited by Lambeau; 03-20-2015 at 09:18 PM. |
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#2
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These are looking related to the MAF. The problem is that the codes are shown generic and not manufacturer specific. In "BMW language" sometimes there are nuances that give a clue. It may be electric problem, or readings may be out of range. If the codes pop-up again you may want to clear the MAF with special cleaner.
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#3
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K&N filter...
I am not much into conspiracy theories, but K&N is associated with MAF sensor failure too much. Yours is another case? May or may not be. But for limited increased airflow (debatable in this post) it is not worth the risk. |
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#4
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I had a K & N filter and the oil coated the MAF. I had to get rid of the K & N filter and put the factory filter back on. Luckily the shop was able to clean the MAF. The K & N filter ended up costing me a lot of money.
Chuck |
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#5
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I've had the K&N filter for over 3000 miles. I don't know if the MAFS was cleaned before I got the vehicle 11,000 miles ago but after checking everything I got a can of MAFS cleaner, took off the air filter housing, removed the 2 torx crews, pulled the MAFS housing out of the air cleaner housing, sprayed the MAFS with the cleaner on both sides, reinstalled, cleared the codes and drove it for 20 miles with no further codes. Seems to run much smoother also. I have no problem cleaning the MAFS every 3K miles as it takes less than 5 minutes to remove the MAFS, clean it & reinstall.
I would suggest everyone clean their MAFS with dedicated cleaner and see if you notice a difference. It's very, very simple. Loosen the clamp between the MAFS and the tube that goes down to the turbo,(or however yours is configured) unclip the 5 clips on the air cleaner housing, pry the plug off of the MAFS, lift out the housing which has the MAFS in it, take off the 2 torx screws, pull the MAFS out, spray it on both sides, put it all back together.
__________________
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming: "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!" 2007 M6 2018 Chevy 2500HD Diesel Alaskan Edition 2011 X5 35d 1972 Chevy K20 4X4 1972 Ford F-600 1959 Chevy Viking 60 Dump Truck 2015 CanAm Outlander XT 1000 |
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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K&N filters are just BS.
They are KNOWN to contaminate MAFs...the oil on the element solubilizes and gets into the maf...and they do so in a way that eventually they cannot be cleaned. (The MAFS develop and oxide coating that tends to insulate the sensor leading to lower sensed airflows. Eventually the car richens the mix.) Take a modern BMW and take the filter out. Dyno it. you will find very little on the table.... 5-10HP replacing this with a K&N ***cannot*** give more than that... plus they let more dirt into the motor, silica into the oil and increased bearing wear. They are a scam. |
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