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#1
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DIY Front Differential Fluid Change Complete
1. Remove the 6 bolts on the aluminum skid plate. 2. Use the 1.5" long 14mm allen wrench piece to verify you can remove the fill plug using a 14mm box-end wrench. (see pictures) 3. Remove drain plug & drain differential. 4. Replace drain plug. 5. Fill with proper fluid until it runs out of the fill plug. 6. Replace fill plug. 7. Replace skid plate.
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Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming: "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!" 2007 M6 2018 Chevy 2500HD Diesel Alaskan Edition 2011 X5 35d 1972 Chevy K20 4X4 1972 Ford F-600 1959 Chevy Viking 60 Dump Truck 2015 CanAm Outlander XT 1000 Last edited by Lambeau; 03-21-2015 at 03:40 PM. |
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#2
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Great info, Thanks
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We never have problems, we always need solutions |
#3
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Thanks for posting. Where did you get the stubby 14mm allen key?
Also, to add that both drain and fill gaskets should be replaced. And when replacing the aluminum plate I would guess those bolts are one-time use, and should also be replaced. They need to be torqued as well....to what value I don't know.
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2014 BMW 328i Xdrive 2011 BMW 335i M-Sport 2008 BMW X5 4.8i Sport 2000 BMW 528i 5sp |
#4
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I assume that the skid plate you are referring to is the reinforcing plate (part #3 in the Realoem diagram below)?
If that is the case, then be aware that the bolts (part #4) are part # 33306772888 (M10x35-10.9), and appear to single use TTY bolts. I think 45 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees, but I am not certain. Hopefully, someone has access to a manual and can chime in. There seem to be a number of threads about the value and/or necessity of TTY bolts, but this link refers directly to the stiffener plate on the e53 X5. See post #12 for a good tensile strength-strain diagram. On a more practical note, see posts # 20 and 21 for reports of creaking front suspensions that started after re-using the bolts, and were fixed by replacing with new TTY bolts. Of course, there are lots of opinions about this - many other posters have said they re-used the bolts without problems. But it's always good to at least know about the issue. Otherwise, good job with the repair. Gotta love a DIY with pics! Regards.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
#5
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Quote:
__________________
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming: "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!" 2007 M6 2018 Chevy 2500HD Diesel Alaskan Edition 2011 X5 35d 1972 Chevy K20 4X4 1972 Ford F-600 1959 Chevy Viking 60 Dump Truck 2015 CanAm Outlander XT 1000 |
#6
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I highly recommend this:
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#7
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I know this is an old thread but it helped me get my fluids changed today.
I had a set of the above mentioned ez-red connectors which helped get the fill plug loose. Since I measured what I took out (600ml) I then jacked the drivers side of the truck up enough to extend the travel of the suspension and make it easier to slide around (no lift here). With that done I was able to use two wobble extensions from the wheel well to torque the fill plug back on. As I am changing all of the fluids in my new to me 2012 X5D with 65k on the clock, I appreciate the time you had spent making these DIY threads Lambeau. |
#8
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and I appreciate you appreciating him.
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#9
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What's the torque on the fill and drain plugs?
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#10
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Just gutentight. Don't go crazy on it.
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