2008 4.8i valve cover stuck

BMWjason · #1 03-23-2015, 07:52 PM

Most likely the alignment tabs inside the valve covers are heat cycled deformed. They are located on the exhaust side of the valve cover. Need to carefully pry on the corner closest to the alternator. When you do get the valve cover off, make sure you remove the 3 tabs inside the valve cover or you will never get the cover to seat. Another BMW gotcha! Also you have to remove the fuel rail to get the drivers side valve cover to clear the Valvetronic sensor. Be careful cause that sensor is 300 dollars! You need to rotate the steering wheel with the universal joint union bolt clocked properly to remove the drivers side cover. Do not ever force anything! This is a level 8 repair as far as mechanic skill, it is the most difficult valve cover gasket I have ever repaired! Oil pools in the rear lower corner of the cover, need sealer in that corner as well as the half moons.

Boosted_s52 · #2 03-24-2015, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMWjason

Most likely the alignment tabs inside the valve covers are heat cycled deformed. They are located on the exhaust side of the valve cover. Need to carefully pry on the corner closest to the alternator. When you do get the valve cover off, make sure you remove the 3 tabs inside the valve cover or you will never get the cover to seat. Another BMW gotcha! Also you have to remove the fuel rail to get the drivers side valve cover to clear the Valvetronic sensor. Be careful cause that sensor is 300 dollars! You need to rotate the steering wheel with the universal joint union bolt clocked properly to remove the drivers side cover. Do not ever force anything! This is a level 8 repair as far as mechanic skill, it is the most difficult valve cover gasket I have ever repaired! Oil pools in the rear lower corner of the cover, need sealer in that corner as well as the half moons.

So I must remove the driver side fuel rail? Ive heard mixed reviews on this. I will remove it now and see if this helps. Thanks

BMWjason · #3 03-24-2015, 11:51 AM

I don't think it's possible to remove the drivers VC without removing the fuel rail. The Valvetronic Sensor is in the way, cant lift the valvecover over it without hitting the fuel rail. Not too difficult to remove, once the wire harness is out of the way. Make sure the plastic panels are removed from the rear of the engine compartment and the 2 reinforcement rails. I think the N62 motor should just be removed at 100,000 miles for a complete reseal job. The whole subframe is attached with 6 bolts. the engine and subframe are removed as a unit from under the vehicle. Need a lift and a subframe jack to do it. Not too difficult with the proper tools.