New purchase, a few questions

[Parrot356]

Key Battery change is simple. It is a CR2032 I believe. Take the key blade out and pop the cover off. Putting it in the ignition will charge the battery if not too dead, but for $2.50. Just change it. Takes about 15 secs... If that doesn't work you may need to have it programmed by the dealer. My car came with two keys, one was brand new and hadn't been programmed. Cost about $65 to have it taken care of. Also I believe if it is not possible to change the battery (re the key is sealed) then it is not a CA key and can't be programmed.

[absentmathis]

It's funny - the last time I dealt with a key battery was on an e39 and it was a PITA. This one is simple now that I know what I'm doing.

How's the idle on y'all's V8? Undetectably silky or feel a little vibration in the steering wheel? How about streaming - no go with stock hardware?

I'll add a new question to the mix... The idrive has been a bit sticky on occasions. Just lagging in response. I know the newer versions are better but I've got what I've got. Anything to be done on this one?

[Ron07x5]

Originally Posted by bawareca

I am not going to argue with you here. It is your car and your money, but if you go this route you have to change at least the MAF too because he also gets de-calibrated over time and it is also a factor in the short and long fuel trim adaptations. However there are a few very important facts that you are missing:
-The pre-cat sensors in your car are so-called wide-band O2 sensors. You can Google, but in a few words they are sensors with a very precise readings. Compared to the regular O2 sensors of the yesteryear is like comparing Huyndai Pony to BMW M3. The DME will figure out something is out of spec long before you will find some difference in the MPG, let alone a danger to the catalytics.
-Post-cat sensors do absolutely nothing for the fuel economy or to protect the catalytics. They are there to monitor their efficiency.
-All 02 sensors are made for heat. As a matter of fact they dont even work when they are cold.

If.you look at bmw.service info they advise replacing the O2 sensors at 100k. The exhaust really beats on the fronts so replacing those first is good. Now.they are pricey and one can let it go til failure per my offer message. The maf isn't subject to punishment of exhaust and has no wear service interval.

[bawareca]

Originally Posted by Ron07x5

The maf isn't subject to punishment of exhaust and has no wear service interval.

What about all the oil vapors that go thru the MAF, especially with the known N62 problematic CCV system?

[absentmathis]

Originally Posted by Ron07x5

If.you look at bmw.service info they advise replacing the O2 sensors at 100k. The exhaust really beats on the fronts so replacing those first is good. Now.they are pricey and one can let it go til failure per my offer message. The maf isn't subject to punishment of exhaust and has no wear service interval.

How do I access this service info you reference?

[Ron07x5]

Originally Posted by absentmathis

How do I access this service info you reference?

A good question. You can go to amazon.com and order a used ...2008 chilton European service manual ... and find on 5-9 the scheduled maintenance intervals showing ... replace 100000 on all models. For less than $12 including shipping it is a bargain reference. Has 40 pages on the x5 and 128 pages of bmw diagnostic troubles codes. Or you could call a.bmw service somewhere.

[MAK3N3]

#3. Check your front lower rear control arm/wishbone basically #10 in the diagram here for a slightly loose bolt where it attaches to the subframe. I had 1-2mm of play w that bolt being loose which caused my clicking sounds when turning etc. Would be good idea to also replace your sway bar end links along with your tension struts as Ard says. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0789

[absentmathis]

^ Thanks will do. It sounds like something loose more so than something worn out.

[Parrot356]

Originally Posted by absentmathis

It's funny - the last time I dealt with a key battery was on an e39 and it was a PITA. This one is simple now that I know what I'm doing.

How's the idle on y'all's V8? Undetectably silky or feel a little vibration in the steering wheel? How about streaming - no go with stock hardware?

I'll add a new question to the mix... The idrive has been a bit sticky on occasions. Just lagging in response. I know the newer versions are better but I've got what I've got. Anything to be done on this one?

I did the cut and separate the key thing on my old E53. PITA for sure but worth saving the $200 for a new key. The comfort access keys are a cinch.

Re the idle. I am with you. I have had 4 other 6 cylinder BMWs and they were/are smooth and responsive. I kick myself regularity for a) selling my 2011 335 and b) for not considering a 35i X5. I can feel vibration in my steering wheel and wondered for a while if I had an engine mount going out, but 30k miles later it appears to be normal for the v8.

Don't know what you can do re the I drive. Mine is pretty sticky as well. But to be honest, while the I drive was nicer in my 2011, the navigation still sucked...

[absentmathis]

Originally Posted by Parrot356

I did the cut and separate the key thing on my old E53. PITA for sure but worth saving the $200 for a new key. The comfort access keys are a cinch.

Re the idle. I am with you. I have had 4 other 6 cylinder BMWs and they were/are smooth and responsive. I kick myself regularity for a) selling my 2011 335 and b) for not considering a 35i X5. I can feel vibration in my steering wheel and wondered for a while if I had an engine mount going out, but 30k miles later it appears to be normal for the v8.

Don't know what you can do re the I drive. Mine is pretty sticky as well. But to be honest, while the I drive was nicer in my 2011, the navigation still sucked...

Ah...thanks for posting this. On the one hand I'm happy that what I'm experiencing appears to be normal and not something wrong, but I do wish it was more patented bimmer smoothness.