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  #71  
Old 02-16-2017, 11:29 AM
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I should have mentioned this note: it is apparent to me why they have issues with the 2009 and up driveline, it is much lighter around the u joints, the joints appear to be the same size but the driveline support for the joints has a lot less metal around them.

The new design would be a lot easier to install with the slightly smaller flange but does not look as strong.
If I choose to use the new driveline the only options are to remove the flange on the front differential and replace it with the newer design, I don't see it for sale anywhere.
Another option is to remove the front flange and re drill it and tap it for the new shaft.
Both shafts center on a guide in the middle of the flange so it would be easy to drill and tap while staying balanced. The newer shaft also uses smaller bolts to attach to this flange.
The newer shaft on the splined end moves the U Joint closer to the transfer case by about an inch, so the shaft is longer and the U joint support is shorter.
That is it for the comparison of the 2008 4.8L shaft to the newer 2009 and up shaft.
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  #72  
Old 02-16-2017, 11:55 AM
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Can you take some pictures and post them?

This would be helpful to get a better idea as to what is going on with the changes/differences.
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  #73  
Old 02-17-2017, 10:12 PM
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Photo's of the 2008 Driveshaft compared to the 2010 Driveshaft.
Attached Images
       
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  #74  
Old 02-17-2017, 10:30 PM
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I did not figure out how to comment next to a picture but here are some notes on the Drivelines.
Top four pictures show the Old driveline on left.
The pictures on the bottom showing the splines show the new driveline from the 2010 model and up has slightly longer splines and the splines are much closer to the Ujoint.
The older driveline has an extension before the splines.

I think the newer design moving the u-joints closer to the loaded area will help durability by design but they are smaller so not as much mass for strength.
The BMW design on the condensate drain from the AC system draining water to the top of this u-joint is pathetic. They could have routed that water to the ground with a little effort. I have installed the new shaft just to make sure it would fit, it does.
The fit for both shafts is so tight it takes a heck of a lot of manipulation to get it in place.
Took me 45 minutes to find the sweet spot and get the new shaft into the car and then 2 hours to get it back out.
I closed up the car with no front shaft installed and we are driving it that way for now. I will fix the front flange so I can install the new 2010 shaft.
I am going to pull the front flange and drill and tap it for the new bolt up pattern. There is room. The car drives perfectly with no front drive shaft, no codes, no add sounds. It is quiet and SMOOTH, no more bearing noise and no vibration.
I will order in new flange seals for this car and do the repair when they come in.
Hope this helps.
If the two shafts were the same price I would put the original design back in but one is $245 and the other is $1050. The new shaft works in the Diesel versions and they have more torque than my 4.8L so I am sure I will have no issues.
For $800 I will drill and tap 4 new holes. Should take about 2 hours tops including removing the flange fixing it and re installing with new a new seal.
Then I hope I can achieve installing the new shaft in only 45 minutes.
( The paint on the new shaft had zero scratches when I got it, after install and removal it looks all scratched up ) I think it would be possible with an angle drill to do this job with the flange in place but I prefer to do it accurately on a drill press.
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  #75  
Old 02-18-2017, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the pictures.

I do have a few questions, if you line up the differential flange evenly, can you take a picture with a reference with the splined yoke? I have a big concern that the splined portion is much shorter than the original shaft.

The problem I saw on my X5 is the splined end really needs to be shoved into the transfer case about another 1/2" for better support.

Maybe there is more to what I am seeing here, but newer shaft is supposed to be 4mm longer than the original but it looks like overall with the splined yoke there may be a net loss in overall length??

I hear you on trying to get the shaft in and out around the exhaust, I never bothered to did mine out once I got it loose, but may be revisiting this again soon.

I may get a custom length shaft built, about 13-15 mm longer than the stock 2007-2008 E70 X5 4.8l shaft.

Before you get too far down the path, these guys have an aftermarket shaft with the correct flange for around $285. The dropped the price big time because I purchased one I never installed from them about 2 years ago for around $500. If they would make the shaft about 13-15mm longer it would be ideal.

2008 BMW X5 Drive Shaft - BMW X5 Driveline - Free Shipping
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  #76  
Old 02-19-2017, 03:40 AM
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From what I have learned the 2008 shaft had a little more play than the 2010 shaft when installed, play at the slip joint yoke. I no longer think this was my issue. The bolt on flange at my front differential had a bearing just starting to go bad. It rotated tight but it was rough to rotate. The 2010 shaft is about 3/16 inch longer and has splines about 1/8 longer so it fits tighter.
You will never get a longer shaft than this in the car. This one barely goes in, there is just no room.
Install your new shaft and see for yourself.
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  #77  
Old 03-10-2017, 12:20 PM
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FYI - Just heard this on my local news wire - BMW has announced they are extending the Driveshaft Recall on the E70/E71 to 2014 model year vehicles -

I thought they would as my wife's 35D was built 2 months after the recall range - nothing updated on BMW recall website yet and I'm trying to find an official announcement - but I just heard on the radio they were adding to the original recall notice, not a new one -

Lots of new driveshafts for all
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  #78  
Old 05-25-2017, 08:32 PM
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FYI, a little follow up. My new installed shaft is working perfectly. With my drilled and tapped new mounting bolts. No issue at all, just took a 1,200 mile trip in this car, much of it 70-90 MPH all smooth and good.

I should add that after replacement I still had a minor vibration. Could not identify this vibration. Put the car up on 4 quality jack stands, ran it in gear at 40 MPH while I searched underneath with a mechanics stethoscope. Front driver side wheel bearing had a minor growl. Changed that wheel bearing and the car is now totally smooth and quiet at all speeds. The wheel bearing had no play that I could feel while jacked up but did show as failing in the run test.
Hope this helps someone else.
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  #79  
Old 05-31-2017, 02:46 PM
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That sounds brave.
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  #80  
Old 12-01-2017, 11:25 AM
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Anyone know whats the torque settings for M8 bolts that hold prop shaft to front diff?

Will be replacing it myself now but was wondering how tight they should go?

Any help appreciated
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