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#1
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4.8 Radiator Fan Replacement
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#2
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Don't know what year your 4.8i is (or even if it matters), but I plugged in a manufacturing date of August 2009 in Realoem.com so as to see what the radiator fan looks like. This link is what I came up with. That looks nearly identical to what is on my 2010 35d (600w vs 850w, but the mounting components look the same).
So assuming that the procedure is similar between a 35d and your 4.8i, you can look at this link to see some pictures. That link is for a thermostat diy, but removing the fan is discussed. No special tools required. With experience (and assuming it's the same basic process as on the 35d), it should only take about 10 minutes to remove the fan. Start by removing the engine cross brace (13 mm bolts x 4 hold part # 5 in this link). The Bowden hood release cable needs to be popped out of the clips on the cross brace, as well as an electrical connection on the drivers side of the brace that is held in place with a 10 mm nut. Undo the electrical connection to the fan. The 35d has a charge air hose that is connected via a bracket to the fan shroud as part of the turbo system. On the 35d, this bracket needs to be unscrewed, and the charge air hose removed from the throttle body and pushed out of the way. Of course, I don't know if you have a charge air hose on the 4.8. As noted in the diy link above, "there are two flanges/flaps/tabs (one on driver's side and one on passenger side) about six to eight inches down on either side that slide into slots to keep the fan and shroud in position. Use a screwdriver to press the flange in, and then you can lift the fan/shroud up a couple of inches. Once it's been lifted a few inches, be aware that the flange/flap/tab on the driver's side is hinged, and needs to be flipped inward to clear obstructions and allow the fan to be lifted out." Check the diy link for a photo or two. Be aware the flippable flange requires a moderate amount of force to get it to flip inward, and it flips with a moderately loud "pop" that will make you think you broke the flap. As you slowly raise the fan and shroud, be aware that a few of the cooling hoses are attached to the shroud via press in brackets. On the 35d you can get your hand down there and easily get the hoses out of the press in brackets. When you're replacing the fan, make sure that all 6 of the slots/tabs/flanges line up. There are two tabs on the bottom, one flange on each side, and two slots on top. The driver's side flippable flange is flipped closed initially to clear obstructions, then flipped open so it will lock into the driver's side slot. The bottom tabs are the hardest to see to make sure they are in position properly. Use a mechanics mirror, or remove the splash shield under the engine so you can be sure the bottom tabs are correctly positioned inside the proper slots at the bottom of the radiator carrier. Put the radiator hoses back into the press in brackets to make sure they can't vibrate into contact with a spinning fan. Reconnect electrical connections, Bowden cable, and charge air hose (if needed). One last full disclosure, the manual says the cross brace bolts are single use only, and to replace them (torque 10 Nm plus 90 degrees). I've been re-using mine without apparent problems. Your decision. Good luck.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife Last edited by sgrice; 12-13-2015 at 11:48 AM. |
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#3
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Thank you so much!
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#4
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Here is a link to my DIY for the coolant exchange pipe.
Most of the pictures from top down until you get to the fan will be good steps to follow. Obviously you should not have to disconnect battery or remove the air boxes. http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-n62-4-8l.html Good luck. |
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#5
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Yes!!!! Dude I love you! Thank you so much!!!
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#6
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lol, no worries.
Glad you found it helpful.
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#7
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Save yourself the headache of doing the job twice - don't use a Dorman replacement - go oem.
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#8
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I got the OEM Replacement. But it still doesnt work. Can someone advise me on what to do next.
0. Motor Control: <---------------------------> Engine / Motor: - Fault: e-fan - Code: 002EFE Is the fault I have. I have read from another thread that the fan comes on for 10 seconds when the car comes on but it doesn't do that. I tried turn on the the A/C in automatic and manual. Fan still does not come on and I still have the code! |
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