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  #11  
Old 02-10-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by n64456 View Post
Not sure if that's a rod knock; it sounds duller in frequency. A rod knock sounds more metallic in nature. Also, a rod knock will be much more pronounced under sharp engine accelerations. Stab and let off the throttle quickly, and listen for it. Have you revved the engine higher than 2500 RPMs; like up near 4-5000?? Does the noise increase, subside, or stay the same? Is there roughness/vibration in the engine while its running?
The knocking subsides after I pass 3000 RPM, knocking comes on at 2000-2500 rmp the loudest. When the engine is cold in the morning there is no knocking whatsoever if revved to the 2000-2500 it only happens after it gets to operating temp.
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2016, 02:41 PM
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A rod knock will usually be most audible when the engine is cold; because the tolerances are loosest until the metal expands with heat. At least that's the case with most less complex V8 engines. Change that tensioner assembly, and see if anything changes. That problem is a no-brainer and may be causing contact with some other external moving parts. Good luck.
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2016, 11:51 PM
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The rod knock may not be heard when the engine is cold due to the low oil temp=more viscosity. The hotter the engine gets more audible the knock will be. but it will increase with RPM, not decrease.
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2016, 08:38 AM
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Question, when changing the water pump and thermostat, and checking alternator for problems, do the belts need to come off. I ask because I had a month ago the water pump and thermostat replaced, and the indy though I had a bad alternator but at the end it was a bad and wrong battery fit in the car by the Acura dealer where I bought the car. So maybe he left it loose or didn't adjust properly when putting it all back.
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2016, 10:55 AM
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The waterpump is electric FYI, it's not mechanical
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2016, 10:02 AM
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Guys before I bring it to the mechanic, if any of you have a 2011 and later X5 35i can you please check for me that your tensioner is not moving like mines on the second video.
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2016, 10:41 AM
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Update, it is not the tensioner is the dreaded Vanos bolts that are loose again. Now get this the Vanos recall was performed on January 31 2015 and a year later Vanos bolts are loose again sounds like the updated bolts dit not fix the problem.

After speaking in person at the dealer that performed the recall work (Paul Miller BMW in Wayne, NJ) they are washing their hands and not willing to do the repair under the 2 year warranty of the recall because I am not the original owner of the car when the recall was done. That is just a load of bull.

What you guys think, my indy told me he can do the work for around $850.
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  #18  
Old 02-15-2016, 11:15 AM
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Get warranty,wait a month and take it in lol
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  #19  
Old 02-15-2016, 02:13 PM
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I'd call BMW NA if this problem was a recall indeed.
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  #20  
Old 02-15-2016, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bawareca View Post
I'd call BMW NA if this problem was a recall indeed.
Here is the recall info in case you any of you missed it.

| Safercar | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/11/au...ines.html?_r=1
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