What engine oil do you use in your gas E70?

[Entropy]

First off, oil threads, for some reason, can go sour quickly... so let's try to keep this one positive. Remember to keep in mind that (most) of us are not petroleum/chemical engineers and there is a lot we don't know.

Things to include in your post:

1. Which engine do you have and mileage
2. Typical climate your E70 operates in (temperatures, etc.)
3. Oil brand and specific type (a link to the oil webpage or PDF technical data sheet would be great as well)
4. Oil filter brand
5. Typical oil change interval
6. List any additives used
7. And a brief note about why you chose said oil/filter/additive would be great

Remember, this is for gas engines only. For you diesel folks, feel free to copy this post and create a diesel specific thread.

I think this thread could be a great reference thread for those who would like to start performing there own oil changes.

[Entropy]

1. N62TU 4.8i with 77k miles
2. Pacific Northwest climate. Winters low 20s to 50s. Summers low 60s to 90s
3. Liqui-Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40
4. Mann oil filter
5. Prior owners were 5-6k OCI, I plan to do 6,500.
6. BG "MOA" additive

German oil for a German engine right? kidding. But this oil carries all of the certifications I was looking for, and has solid NOACK and flash point figures for the price. It has great reviews as well. As for the additive, BG MOA has amazing reviews from all over and has proven results. The prior owners used it, and the engine is as clean as a whistle inside and dead-quiet. I don't see any reason to change that.

[SeanC]

Have been using BMW oil, but I will be switching to European formula Mobil 1 0-40.

[Entropy]

Originally Posted by SeanC

Have been using BMW oil, but I will be switching to European formula Mobil 1 0-40.

Just and FYI, 0W-40 no longer carries LL-01 approval. The new formula is thinner than the original, and uses a different base-stock (GTL versus VISOM). It is still great oil, however.

[the_ulf]

1. N62TUB48
2. -5C - +30C (approx)
3. liqui moly 5W-30 (LL04)
4. mann oem replacement filter
5. change when due (we drive fairly conservatively)
6. no additives
7. i get a good deal, a friend of mine manages an auto parts store

[Entropy]

Originally Posted by the_ulf

1. N62TUB48
2. -5C - +30C (approx)
3. liqui moly 5W-30 (LL04)
4. mann oem replacement filter
5. change when due (we drive fairly conservatively)
6. no additives
7. i get a good deal, a friend of mine manages an auto parts store

Thanks. LL-04 is a low/mid SAPS oil, which removes some anti-wear and detergent additives for the sake of increasing the DPF filter's life. Since you're not a diesel, maybe consider one of Liqui-Moly's LL-01 oils?

[jfoj]

My comments below:

1. Typical climate your E70 operates in (temperatures, etc.) - Washington, DC Metro area 0F - 100F with LOTS of traffic with stop and go driving. Very hard on any vehicle. Run hours are higher than mileage typically. Average MPH per tank is usually only around 18-22. NOTE, this is MPH not MPG!
2. Oil brand and specific type (a link to the oil webpage or PDF technical data sheet would be great as well) - Castrol 5W40 which has the BMW LL-01 Approval on the bottle, or at least it did last time I purchased it. Like anything the Approvals come and go depending on a lot of factors. I am not 100% hung on on BMW LL-01 oil in my vehicle because I do not believe or subscribe to the 15k mile OCI. In fact in my E46 I have reprogrammed the OCI reminder from 15k miles to 7500 miles.
3. Oil filter brand - Mann brand filter usually from the dealer or online
4. Typical oil change interval - About 10k miles, do not believe in the 15k mile BMW interval
5. List any additives used - None. Occasionally on other cars add a can of SeaFoam or STP Multipurpose Motor Treatment about 250 miles before oil changes. This helps keep the crankcase clean.
6. And a brief note about why you chose said oil/filter/additive would be great -

I do not get all wrapped up around the axle on BMW LL-01 Approvals. Some folks might. Once any vehicle is beyond the Warranty, the specified oil may or may not make much of a difference. I do not extend my oil changes to the max mileage and I am not racing or tracking my vehicle, it is a daily driver. My attitude is any good quality synthetic oil that is clean and not contaminated is more than adequate for the majority of vehicles on the road.


I do not want hear about sheer numbers and all the other oil related specs, few people care or understand. Also the folks that preach all of the petroleum specs never explain them because either they do not understand them or they think they are so much smarter than everyone else. I frequent another forum where one member continually tells people they are using the wrong oil. Funny how the engines have not immediately seized on all of these vehicles. Just because and oil does not meet some spec, does not mean it will cause catastrophic problems with an engine. The API standards that were recommended for the E70 are usually exceeded by most of today's current synthetic oils unless you are buying the cheap, not synthetic oil from the Dollar Store.



Clean and uncontaminated oil is the import part of any engine longevity. You cannot always rely on mileage to determine if the oil is clean. SO MANY people drive there cars in severe situations where the oil will not come up to temperature and cook off water and fuel in the crankcase. This is often due to short drives, severe low temperatures and also soft failing cooling system thermostats. Also keep in mind the 9 quart oil sump in the V8 takes about 3 times longer than the engine to come up to temperature, so in the very coldest parts of the years, this may mean up to 30 minutes of driving which many people do not do on a per trip basis.

I almost always change my oil in late Fall, regardless of actual mileage on the oil. This way I start out the Winter months with a fresh oil change so hopefully I can get through the Winter without severely contaminated engine oil. I also monitor the engine oil color when checking the oil as my E70 still has a dipstick, but I understand dipsticks are going the way of the dinosaur these days.


Not here to have a discussion, just stating my position and reason that I do what I do. Choose to take some or none of what I have to offer, but my approach has worked well for me over the years and I have never had an oil related engine failure.



Each person does things differently. This is how I operate.


As they say, YMMV.

[Entropy]

Originally Posted by jfoj

[...]

Each person does things differently. This is how I operate.


As they say, YMMV.

Thanks for the comments. I am in the same boat as you when it comes to OCI. I have seen so many BMW engines sludged up because the owners blindly follow BMW's destructive maintenance schedule. 15k OCIs? "Lifetime" fluids? It really grinds my gears!

Tomorrow I will be giving a giant middle-finger to BMW's maintenance schedule and doing the transmission, t-case, and differential fluids :-)

[jfoj]

Originally Posted by Entropy

Tomorrow I will be giving a giant middle-finger to BMW's maintenance schedule and doing the transmission, t-case, and differential fluids :-)

Do you have the software to reset the adaptions for the transfer case when you change the fluid?

What fluid are you going to use in the transfer case?

[JCL]

Originally Posted by the_ulf

1. N62TUB48
2. liqui moly 5W-30 (LL04)

Agree with Entropy, that LL04 isn't a good idea. BMW issued a tech bulletin years ago advising not to use LL04 oils in North America, due to our fuels. Those oils simply break down too early. If you insist, just make sure you change it much more often than you would an non-LL04 oil. Or buy your fuel in Europe.