New X6 murdered out! couple projects

[eddieb022000]

Hi all,
i know this is the X5 forum, but its way more active. just picked up 2012 x6 50i black on black, with dipped rims. Its been snowing in NYC and just got back from a long trip with the car so its full of dirt and salt but will get actual pics up. While this isnt my car its a perfect match as everything has been blacked out like this. see pics (will get real ones up shortly)

Rotors are warped but pads are good, but i was told you cant just slap new rotors on there, the pads must be replaced with them, so i have attached a pic of a online quote i got for parts delivered. seems insanely cheap because my indy mechanic who i have trusted for years gave me a quote of ~1100$ just for parts, WITH his 20% discount. i assumed he was still making something on the parts, but the online parts are Zimmerman rotors and OEM pads (see pic). he wants $300 for labor

I plan to paint the brake calipers blue, hopefully close to BMW M brake color, and feel like if i am going to do the brakes myself this would be the time to hit the calipers with some paint. Any idea where you can buy the right paint to match? i have the BMW color codes, but the auto stores just sell generic colored brake spray paint.

finally i have a dash cam, V1 and a laser jammer that i used to have plugged into the cig outlet and id like to hardwire them in. got a quote for $400 which i think is nuts so again i plan to tackle that myself. not sure how to run the wires in the headliner and down the A-pillar? do those come off or do u just sort of jam it in there.

the dash cam i think i could just tap into the dome light, but i have been told that the V1 could throw fault codes and should be hardwired into the fuse box below the glove box.

as for the laser jammer i am really not looking forward to mounting that above the front bumper and finding a way to cleanly run the wires, but the guy that quoted me $400 said that he wouldnt just do the jammer bc that was the bulk of the job.

anyway sorry for the long posts, but those are the projects i have in store for this weekend.

[byM5]

I thought people were scared of the 50 due to reliability and engine lights

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[eddieb022000]

BMW has the cust care program where they replace the problem issues, and i have a warranty til 100k

those should help, and i must say the 50i is such a beast.
what i love most about it is that you can be cruising at 65mph and its smooth and quiet, if you give it a little gas it stay smooth and quiet, but if you really "get on it" the beast awakens and the sound it makes is pure

[byM5]

That warranty is a must. I know so many people who blew motors and techs who hate that engine.

[ard]

Your rotors are NOT WARPED.

Do a brake pad bedding procedure. Actually do it twice on consecutive days:

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...Path=6446_6443

DO IT!

[eddieb022000]

but my experience tells me that BMW rotors warp easily and one or more of these are cooked and need to be replaced, but hey its worth a shot, as long as the vibration doesnt mess up other components

[Proflyer]

The factory rotors are so heavy I can't see how someone would warp them unless they basically rode their brakes a ton. A metric $h!t ton. When I did my brakes on the X5 I took the rotors to Napa to have them turned and the guy said even after turning them I could likely get another turn out of them and still be in spec. $12 each. If you call around you can find a shop/parts store to turn them.

Also, I would NOT use the stock pads unless you love brake dust. I was so happy to replace ours with good ceramic pads and they make 10% of the dust.

Finally yes, you must bed them in properly. I think that (like ard said) is missed most. I also notice that if my brakes on either BMW (have an m3 as well) get squeaky I can repeat that process above and they are quiet for a few thousand miles.

Oh, best place to do this is a frontage road along the highway. You need a good bit (several miles) of room on a straight road with zero traffic.

[eddieb022000]

for some reason they are delicate - could be the north east with snow and salt but i suspect they run hot and have maybe a puddle give uneven cooling cycle

so given ur views on break in period what do you think of new rotors on my existing pads which have plenty of meat left. more than a few shops told me thats a no-no as they wont work well given different grooves and that they will squeal

[eddieb022000]

being that i live in NYC its hard to find the open road to perform this brake test.

not ideal but i was able to warm up the brakes and do several very hard stops. i did 8 but at about 5 traffic picked up and i couldnt resume immediately.

few observations and tips:
1) dont be stupid like me and go to home depot before and have a trunk full of paint and stain. i cringed every time one of the cans slapped into the back.

2) dont have a big meal before hand this is nauseating as you are quickly braking then gunning it over and over. so prob best not to have passengers either.

3) i found that from 60-20 mph was way too short for these big brakes. i think its better if possible to take it up to 80 and pull back down to 10mph, prob need less passes as well

SO THE RESULTS:

much improved and very noticeable improvement in the pedal feel. i still have a problem with the front right rotor as it still has rust on the face (obviously not making good contact) and it doesnt have the clear bluish tint the others do.

As per the instructions given the promising improvement i am going to try again once the brakes have cooled. perhaps in the middle of the night or super early morning. the biggest challenge is doing this safely

[Proflyer]

it states very clearly why you go from 60-20. No offense, but you don't know enough about the process to assume you need to go faster. Speed creates heat and excessive heat can be an issue.

Also, you're not doing yourself any good without a clear road. If you want this to work you have to do it the right way. Go for a weekend drive?

And no, you can not use old pads with new rotors or old rotors with new pads. The very process you're trying to accomplish when bedding the brakes is because they need to be married together to work appropriately.Either have the rotors turned (resurfaced) or buy new ones or you'll just end up with poor performance and brake dust built up in the grooves from the old pads which could take forever, if at all, to work its way to a good connection.

If you can't spend $12-$15 per rotor to have them turned, maybe a BMW isn't for you.