No Start

[NYX5]

Hello everyone, I own a 2011 X5 35D. I purchased it as a CPO, it was 2 years old at that time. It has been a great vehicle for me and now that the warranty has expired I have my first issue which i'm hoping you guys can help me with. Two weeks ago we had a real cold freeze here in LI, NY. It was 10 degrees for 2 weeks straight. I don't drive the car everyday so it was sitting for about a week before I tried to start it. It wouldn't start, message came up about the battery being insufficient, I cant remember exactly what it said. It made sense because it's the original battery coupled with the cold weather.

I purchased a installed a new battery, 13.6 volts at install. Registered the battery with Carly. Car didn't start, all I get is a click. I tried grounding the vehicle with jumper cables, nothing, removed IBS and tried it and still nothing. The constant message I get before I try to start it is to please wait: preheating. My question is would a bad glow plug module cause a no start? I am at a loss here. I though the module came into play if its colder than 40 degrees which it has been in the last few days. Codes listed below.

Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Zylinder 1 Control
Code: 004A6E
Zylinder 2 Control
Code: 004A5E
Zylinder 3 Control
Code: 004A4E
Zylinder 4 Control
Code: 004A3E
Zylinder 5 Control
Code: 004A2E
Zylinder 6 Control
Code: 004A1E
Receive LIN-bus communication of the glow plug GSG
Code: 004A6F
Receive LIN-bus communication of the glow plug GSG
Code: 004A5F
Receive LIN-bus communication of the glow plug GSG
Code: 004A4F
Receive LIN-bus communication of the glow plug GSG
Code: 004A3F
Receive LIN-bus communication of the glow plug GSG
Code: 004A2F
Receive LIN-bus communication of the glow plug GSG
Code: 004A1F
Oil Pressure Switch Oil Pressure status implausible engine operating condition
Code: 004CA0
ABS / DSC / Brake:
Active Roll Stabilization / Rollstabilisierung
ECU not present/no response from ECU
Dynamische Stabilitaets Kontrolle / DSC
Steering angle sensor
Code: 006EC4
Immobilizer System:
CAS
Driver KL50L KS
Code: 00A0C1
Driver KL50RS KS
Code: 00A0C2
Instrument cluster:
Instrument cluster / Kombiinstrument
Shutdown
Code: 00A559

[Mackskibum]

There's more going on there tan the gp module. Did you clear the codes?

Our 2010 with failed gp module started at 5F. Rattled for 45 seconds but it started. Those codes may be from low voltage/ battery replacement.

[NYX5]

Originally Posted by Mackskibum

There's more going on there tan the gp module. Did you clear the codes?

Our 2010 with failed gp module started at 5F. Rattled for 45 seconds but it started. Those codes may be from low voltage/ battery replacement.

Yes, I cleared the codes and nothing. Thanks for your reply, you answered my initial question should the engine turn over with a failed gp module. So I went back and tried to ground the body and engine again in a different spot and it turned over. It took me a while to find the ground cable, a lot of post say its on the passengers side, it's not, it is located in the drivers side. It is extremely difficult to remove if you never done it before. One bolt can easily be removed from underneath the car, the other bolt is almost impossible to remove from underneath. I took a couple of extensions and removed the bolt from the top of the engine bay. The actual cable didn't look that bad but it just separated as soon as I tugged it a little bit. I am going to order one one Monday, hopefully this will fix my no start issue.

[pshovest]

Are you certain there's not another larger wire? That ground wire looks burned and doesn't look large enough to carry full starter current. If main gnd wire failed, this smaller one would burn up quickly. My 3.0si has a ~1/2" dia insulated ground wire on passenger side.

[NYX5]

Originally Posted by pshovest

Are you certain there's not another larger wire? That ground wire looks burned and doesn't look large enough to carry full starter current. If main gnd wire failed, this smaller one would burn up quickly. My 3.0si has a ~1/2" dia insulated ground wire on passenger side.

This ground cable doesn't carry full starter current. It just grounds the engine to the chassis. I was unaware of another ground cable on the passenger side, nor did I see one. Are you certain yours was an earth ground?

[pshovest]

We've got different engines, so your location may be different, but all cars have an engine-to-chassis ground wire that carries full starter current. It's about the same size as the 12v wire that connects to the starter.

[Stockx5]

Originally Posted by pshovest

We've got different engines, so your location may be different, but all cars have an engine-to-chassis ground wire that carries full starter current. It's about the same size as the 12v wire that connects to the starter.

this might be for something else but
there is one in the rear of the car it connects the exhaust to the chasis. It's right by the muffler. Mine broke and I didn't replace it didn't think it was important?

[Mackskibum]

That's the normal engine to chassis ground cable. It's a common failure point due to corrosion. On my 08 535 it was n the same condition.

The other main ground is next to the battery. Double check that it is intact and attached properly.

The starter is grounded through the case. No ground direct to the starter.

[ard]

Originally Posted by Stockx5

this might be for something else but
there is one in the rear of the car it connects the exhaust to the chasis. It's right by the muffler. Mine broke and I didn't replace it didn't think it was important?

Pretty sure the exhaust strap was secondary AND there was a BMW TSB to cut it, in order to eliminate radio(?) interference....

Hence it prolly didn't 'break', rather was cut....

[Stockx5]

Originally Posted by ard

Pretty sure the exhaust strap was secondary AND there was a BMW TSB to cut it, in order to eliminate radio(?) interference....

Hence it prolly didn't 'break', rather was cut....

ohh that's interesting. I will not be re attaching it then.