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#1
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BMW dealer takes a look at the issue and finds one of the EGR cooler bolts broke off inside the exhaust manifold. Someone (assuming it was the used car dealer) drilled a small hole in the broken bolt and stuck a trim screw in there to try and hold this EGR Cooler to the exhaust manifold. The BMW dealer of course told me this is not covered under the extended warranty. There was an option of taking the exhaust manifold off and replacing it, but that would be a $4000 repair. There is an option of taking the radiator and condenser out and that would get you a straight in angle to drill the bolt out and retap the threads. That is most likely the path I’m planning on taking. Looking for any advice that I can get. What do I need to know about pulling the radiator and condenser? I imagine the condenser I might be able to push it out of the way once the radiator is out. Please correct me if I’m wrong. |
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#2
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You bought an extended warranty to fix a pre-existing issue, and figured this was cool as long as you waited the proper amount of time to make the claim?
wow Instead of cheating the insurance company, you should have gone back to the dealer that messed up. Karma she be a bitch, eh? |
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#3
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I guess the wow factor would the fact that someone comes to this forum for advice, but then gets insulted. hmmmm, not very helpful of you.
Here's the part you missed or didn't care to ask. I didn't know it was a pre existing problem until BMW took it all apart. The dealer where I bought it didn't say anything to me about a broken bolt or a screw being used. But seeing they put a trim screw in there shows that they knew about it and choose to hide it. I chose to not use the place I bought the car from to fix any more problems, because I didn't have a good feeling about their work, beside the fact they had gave me too much of a run around to do anything with the car. Yes, I should of returned the car right then, but my wife fell in love with the car and didn't want to give it up. Sue me for making my wife happy. The reason we had replace the EGR cooler the first time was because it was rigged up with a string and spring to hold it open and had exhaust fumes coming into the cabin. I bought the extended warranty to take care of any issues that might come up that I didn't know about. Not to cheat them. Besides I told them about it and tried to cancel the warranty and they stayed on the phone with me for 45 mins talking me into staying with them...... sounds like I was out to cheat them, huh? I didn't go into that much detail before because I didn't think it would help to fix the problem I'm facing. Since I haven't gotten any advice from anyone that has dealt with something like this. I'm beginning to wonder why I joined this forum. Maybe I'm just not welcome here and I should go back to Bimmerfest.com where there is actual people that want to help others. |
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#4
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Whats your mileage?
Maybe you can cancel your warranty for a pro-ration? There is a BMW diesel performance shop not far from you that may be able to help you better than the dealer can. Stay away from the guy who sold you the car unless it is to pick up a check to pitch in toward repairing their botched repair. Legal recourse could be appropriate if he tells you to pound sand. Not my dept. If the rest of the car warrants it, just fix it. Do all the other "while you are in there or close stuff." If its better to cut your losses and start with a different car, do that. This is not an inexpensive car to keep on the road, but is incredibly rewarding to drive when is running right. I would be wary to drill or tap in that area to avoid metal shavings in exhaust.
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-------------------- 03 3.0 Alpine/Blk (sold) Sport, Prem, CWP, PDC, Xenon 10 35d Titanium/Blk - Sport, Lux Seating, Prem, CWP, Tech, Rr Climate, CA |
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#5
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My mileage is 101,000 when I bought the car it had 81,000.
I tried to cancel the warranty. They lowered my payments and gave me a free month. I have no issue with keeping the warranty for when I really getting into a major repair. I would be interested in finding a diesel Performance shop and see what they can do for me. If you know what it is called please let me know? Yeah, I don’t trust the seller. I did put a call into them to see what they are willing to do seeing they can’t get around the fact their shop did such shotty work. The General manager said she will have to talk to the owner about the findings. I don’t mind getting a car with a few small problems. I can normally take care of them myself. I’m stepping out of my comfort box when I bought a BMW Diesel. I have no problems working domestic or Japanese cars. I figured I would expand my knowledge with a BMW. I have looked up a lawyer to maybe handle some of this but it doesn’t look like that path with take me anywhere. I realize the parts are not cheap, that wasn’t my concern when I bought the car. My goal was to get my wife a reliable car that I don’t have to turn wrenches on all the time like I do with my jeep. The jeep has 270,000 miles on it will need work here and there. I know that once I fix this stupid mistake that someone made with this car that this car will be a good car to own. I will get some good years out of it, because I keep my cars up with OEM parts and I use Amsoil Lubricates in them. My idea to get the broken bolt out is to use a left handed drill bit and go at it a real slow hoping that the bit will get a bite and unscrew it. The BMW dealer told me the manifold is cast iron, drill it out and retapping it would be an option as well. I’m thinking the bolt was cross threaded I don’t see how it could be that rusted in just 9 yrs. I will keep a magnet close by to try and get most of the metal shavings. If there is any other ideas please let me know. It was noted that I needed to change the crankcase oil vent tubes as well. Anything else in that area I should change while the EGR Cooler is pulled off? |
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#6
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Quote:
Lots of people here subscribe to the deletion method when it comes time to deal with expensive or complicated emissions issues. While the EGR cooler is off, I would at least install a thermostat (+water pump and AT thermostat if so inclined, check running temp prior), inspect harmonic balancer, Intake pipe seals. You may also be interested in checking out the condition of all your vacuum lines. If your manifold has to come off, good time to deal with your pressure converters and other stuff. Any idea if you have any pending codes? or what they are? Look up BPC in Raliegh. I don't know much about them, but my impression is they have a very good clue what they are talking about.
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-------------------- 03 3.0 Alpine/Blk (sold) Sport, Prem, CWP, PDC, Xenon 10 35d Titanium/Blk - Sport, Lux Seating, Prem, CWP, Tech, Rr Climate, CA |
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#7
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I normally always stay ahead of the maintenance. Once the car is brought up to oem condition.
The thermostat sounds like a good idea to replace while I’m in there. Not sure I want to mess with the water pump yet. The vacuum lines are another good one. How can you check the running temp? I have recently bought the Carly to mess with the comfort features. Is there something in there that might show me the running temp? I will have to look at my OBD2 reader and see if that will give me the temp. I would have to hear out the pros and cons to doing the EGR delete. It is something I would consider, but I want to make sure it won’t shorten the life of any parts. Someone has already done the swirl flap delete which is something I would have done. I have a pending code for the DEF metering valve. I figure that is something that needs to be cleaned and put back on. I hear the def crystalizes and causes problems. Awesome BPC is right up the road from me. That is a must to check them out. It seems like they would be pretty knowledgeable about these cars. Thanks for your help. |
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#8
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Quote:
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1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S 2003 Dodge Ram 5.7L Hemi 2011 BMW 335D 2013 BMW X5D Last edited by BB_cuda; 02-21-2018 at 12:42 AM. |
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#9
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BB_cuda,
Thanks for getting in touch with me. I would like to hear his story and what he had to take out to get the room he needed. I would also like to know about the EGR delete that you did. Was there any noticeable difference in the way the motor runs? I have thought about doing the delete but wasn't sure what it entailed with mapping out the sensors from throwing a code. Please explain? This is my first BMW and first Diesel that I have ever owned. |
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#10
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When I had to remove a broken screw from my A/C compressor I didn't really want to have to remove the radiator/condensor so I used at right angle attachment on my drill https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&tag=pda0ea-20 and and extractor set like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&tag=pda0ea-20 both worked perfectly for me.
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'01 740i Sport MKIV, Quad Brake Lights, Bi-Xenon retrofit, HID Fogs Dinan 7 Struts, Springs, camber plates, Intake, MAF, CAI, Throttle Body, NBT Retrofit, Strong Strut ![]() '99 318ti Titanium Silver; '97 318ti Boston Green; '13 X5 3.5i Saphire Black Metallic '84 633csi Black (sold); '88 325iC Black (sold); '97 740iL Black(sold); '01 740iS Black (sold);'97 318ti White (sold); '08 X5 4.8i Titanium Silver (sold); '96 318ti Alaska Blue (sold) |
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