My turn to do valve seals

[Entropy]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

I saw some threads discussing it but none of them met my bar for anything definitive. The BMW part number for the seals never changed and there is no mention of it in TIS or an SIB bulletin. I did find someone talking about the N63 seals being exactly the same dimensions but lasted longer. This sounds plausible as the turbo N63 is going to run A LOT hotter on the exhaust side and the rubber on the seals may be a different / better material. I decided not to even go that route as I had no way of verifying they are in fact the same dimensions.

Both Elring Klinger and Victor Reinz are OE suppliers for BMW. When a seal is first introduced they are typically all from the same supplier, but that doesn't last long. Within a very short period of time, all the OE suppliers will be making the seal and the only people who are going to know what supplier they bought them from is the buying group. If they meet the specs BMW considers them interchangeable and uses the same part number. If anyone at a dealership tells you otherwise they are just guessing or passing on hearsay.

That's just my $.02 though, take it for what it's worth lol.

According to AGA's website, the Elring seals are the way to go. They are an improved design. I think you made the right call.

Which tool are you using for the install? AGA?

[ard]

It is my understanding that BMW updated the seals (shape and materials) about 3 years ago, give or take. So the new BMW seals and the elring are the same.

BUT...Im not going to argue with AGA.



Am also wondering what tools OP is using..... timelapse vid somewhere, worth watching...

[wsmeyer]

Originally Posted by ard

It is my understanding that BMW updated the seals (shape and materials) about 3 years ago, give or take. So the new BMW seals and the elring are the same.

BUT...Im not going to argue with AGA.

Am also wondering what tools OP is using..... timelapse vid somewhere, worth watching...

Generally BMW part numbers coincide with the specs for the part. If they update the specs, it gets a new part number. This doesn't mean that newer parts aren't better, if a supplier improves it they may use an indicator like color to distinguish them but since the old and new versions both meet BMW's specs they are interchangeable in their mind and will retain the part number.

I rented the AGA tool kit off of eBay, $175 for 2 weeks. Supposed to arrive today.

[ard]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

Generally BMW part numbers coincide with the specs for the part. If they update the specs, it gets a new part number. This doesn't mean that newer parts aren't better, if a supplier improves it they may use an indicator like color to distinguish them but since the old and new versions both meet BMW's specs they are interchangeable in their mind and will retain the part number..

Again, as I understood it, the new BMW valve stem seals are a different part number than the ones they put int he motors when first built.

Here ya go:
50i N63 valve stem seals job. Timelapse video - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

[wsmeyer]

Originally Posted by ard

Again, as I understood it, the new BMW valve stem seals are a different part number than the ones they put int he motors when first built.

Here ya go:
50i N63 valve stem seals job. Timelapse video - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

That's for the N63 motor that I mentioned above.

[Skyline]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

That's for the N63 motor that I mentioned above.

Here's the video for the N62:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE5PsbHgzM4

[Toothbrush]

When you try to remove the valve covers, just a tip that worked for me (on install, my experience with removal was before this method )...

No brute force or fighting is necessary if you angle them just right.

1. Once you have them free (e.g. spark plug tubes clear, unbolted) and ready to lift off
2. Turn the front of one cover up and towards the other side of the engine so that the top-back corner is the only thing you need to clear the eccentric sensor
3. While looking/feeling along the top-back corner, gently slide the cover over the eccentric sensor

if you have a second pair of eyes, it's much easier of course.

If you do it right, it will slide right over the top of those sensor ears (that everyone breaks) without too much trouble, strain, stress or words you wouldn't normally say in mixed company. It also may take some time to figure out the correct angle, but it can be done.

[wsmeyer]

Originally Posted by Toothbrush

When you try to remove the valve covers, just a tip that worked for me (on install, my experience with removal was before this method )...

No brute force or fighting is necessary if you angle them just right.

1. Once you have them free (e.g. spark plug tubes clear, unbolted) and ready to lift off
2. Turn the front of one cover up and towards the other side of the engine so that the top-back corner is the only thing you need to clear the eccentric sensor
3. While looking/feeling along the top-back corner, gently slide the cover over the eccentric sensor

if you have a second pair of eyes, it's much easier of course.

If you do it right, it will slide right over the top of those sensor ears (that everyone breaks) without too much trouble, strain, stress or words you wouldn't normally say in mixed company. It also may take some time to figure out the correct angle, but it can be done.

You make it sound easy lol.

That's pretty much the way I do it. The passenger side isn't much trouble. On the driver's side:

I get the wiring harness and the heater hoses on top of the VC
Pull it straight up about 2 inches
Rock it towards the drivers side
Push the wiring harness under the VC
Rock it back over the wiring harness
Push the heater hoses under the VC
Then rotate front of VC to the driver's side and up

Unfortunately, no matter how careful you try and be you're dealing with old brittle plastic and I now have one broken ear on each sensor.

Even if you break both ears there is no reason to replace the sensor. Cut a 1 inch long piece of 1 inch diameter shrink tubing and shrink it over the connection and it will never just pop out.

[wsmeyer]

Two hours in, removed everything necessary to gain access to the valves. So far nothing tricky. Will get back in there in a couple hours when it warms up a little.

[byM5]

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

Two hours in, removed everything necessary to gain access to the valves. So far nothing tricky. Will get back in there in a couple hours when it warms up a little.

It took me forever and I'm not done. Im going to pull the intake cams and re time one bank at a time.
There is just not enough visibility to zip through without losing a valve.

This is my eBay cam timing kit for returning after cams off and seals done.
I'm at 1 month and only have bank1 done

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