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  #11  
Old 12-14-2018, 08:30 PM
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11.7 volts is not normal. It indicates a battery hovering around 50% SOC and a cell may have already reversed or be at a significantly lower SOC.

Open circuit voltage should be more than 12.7 volts. A fully charged battery in good condition should not lower more than 0.5 volts at nominal discharge rates. A 12 volt automotive battery that drops to 11.7 volts for anything longer than a second at anything less than a couple of hundred amps discharge rate is deficient.

Batteries in this condition will probably be able to start a vehicle for a few months, longer if it is periodically charged at around five amps or less to 100% Ah capacity. Less time overall if the vehicle is used for short trips.

The onboard regulator and rectifier circuit of a modern alternator will keep the output within safe levels. Additional protection is afforded by the IBS that newer BMW vehicles have. Even if the IBS is demanding a high or maximum output from the alternator, at some point, the required power to maintain the vehicle's systems operational and the battery at a satisfactory SOC will exceed the safe capacity of the alternator. The vehicle will keep running so it is the battery that will suffer in the long term.

AGM and flooded battery voltages are slightly different but will operate similarly.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2018, 10:19 AM
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The battery voltage is a fair point and thank you for pointing this out.

However, I've charged the battery and it stays between 12.5 and 12.4 Volts for a few days now. Alternator voltage on idle 14.89V .Still original problem exists:
1. No Warning tones message when I start the card , repeating every 30 sec to 1 min for the first 5 min
2. No sound from any source
3. For the first 5 min I don't even see a radio station name

Starting at about 5 min point I start to hear some audio cutting in and out randomly. For next 10 - 15 min it's getting better and better then starts working normally.

Problem goes away if car is sitting in a warm garage - like in a dealership where they couldn't replicate this problem after car spent a night in 70F environment.

I've recorded this video next day after I've brought it back from the dealership where they couldn't reproduce this problem. Video doesn't show how bad it gets when temperature drops below 30F, at that time I think the temperature was around 40F.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCmN4M12YVo
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2018, 03:10 PM
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Wouldn't have a clue as to where, but seems like you have a loose ground or other wire that loses connection after contraction occurs due to the cold temp. I would check the wiring closely in the rear compartments on both sides. Then in the dash where the monitor and CIC reside.

Per your description, non-existent when cold (no connection from contraction), intermittent during warm-up (periodic connection due to warming expansion occurring) and fully functional after warm-up complete (full connection after fully expanded due to warmth). Do I understand you correctly? If so, then, as mentioned, connections need to be checked one by one.
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2018, 04:52 PM
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12.4 or 12.5 volts is still low. Your battery is not in good condition. Additionally, your battery was depleted when it was at 11.7 volts. What depleted it? Was your latest voltage check done open circuit or with it connected to the vehicle? When was this battery installed and/or manufactured? Have you checked for any DTCs?
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2018, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josiahg52 View Post
11.7 volts is not normal. It indicates a battery hovering around 50% SOC and a cell may have already reversed or be at a significantly lower SOC.

Open circuit voltage should be more than 12.7 volts. A fully charged battery in good condition should not lower more than 0.5 volts at nominal discharge rates. A 12 volt automotive battery that drops to 11.7 volts for anything longer than a second at anything less than a couple of hundred amps discharge rate is deficient.

.
Key word is open circuit... I agree about that. But on the e70 it likes to keep a lot of things on even with key out of ignition.

I got a new battery a year ago and fully charged it and installed it. It was measured after key off 11.7, but if I let the car sit with the hood open, it went back to around 12.5.
My previous battery acted the same, but I was unsure of its age. It started with no issues on cold days of 10 F and this is a diesel engine!

I gave that battery to my friend to use in his beater e60 530xi.
On my friend's e60 nominal key out load with hood open, It's around 12.2. After sitting for a while it was 12.6. Some loads take time to clear out like on the e70.

My point is that the e70 has some really stupid programming that keeps heavy loads on for a while after key off. That's why op saw 11.7 and later 12.5.

The way bmw implemented power control on the e70 is really stupid... And that's why you can't really measure open voltage unless you physically disconnected the battery!
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  #16  
Old 02-02-2020, 07:28 PM
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Still trouble

I've taken my car to BMW dealer and they were unable to diagnose it, just charged me $175. Figures.


Taken car to another shop, they've replaced battery and after about 1 week of trying couldn't figure this out.



So , as before, colder it gets - longer it takes to for radio to start working.

I suspect CIC module, since on a cold start at about 0F CIC reboots several times before "heating up" and starting to work.



Going to open central console and heat up a CIC just to get it worm. Hope this helps to pinpoint the problem.
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  #17  
Old 02-02-2020, 10:09 PM
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Heating CIC module to about 80F made it work without any problems. So the problem is with CIC.
Going back to BMW to get it replaced under extended warranty.
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  #18  
Old 02-03-2020, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yogik View Post
Heating CIC module to about 80F made it work without any problems. So the problem is with CIC.
Going back to BMW to get it replaced under extended warranty.



One point- and this has worked with BMW before, albiet I was friends w the SA- if you have an issue that is documented WHEN THE CAR IS UNDER WARRANTY, and it take months or longer to figure out, the BMW warranty is supposed to cover 'a defect discovered during the warranty period', and not 'when we figure it out or when we finally fix it'.


This is why I harp on "make sure the SA properly documents your issue on the work order".


gl
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2020, 12:27 PM
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Thank you very much for this note. I'll check in my records.
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