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  #1  
Old 10-23-2019, 11:52 AM
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DMTL Help

Ugh, almost $1,200 to turn off a check engine light - DMTL pump, filter, and carbon canister need to be replaced, 2009 30i. Are they any better options besides staring at the light forever to resolve?
7 months out of extended warranty...

Last edited by imalabil; 10-23-2019 at 12:50 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2019, 01:36 PM
ard ard is offline
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How is it that all three of those items all went bad at the same time?


Or is that a 'dealer shotgun parts' special?


Codes would be helpful, no?
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2019, 03:10 PM
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Here is what Carly told me:

Faultcode: (0x2A13) DMTL leak diagnosis pump control
Faultset 1:
(appeared at: 177320.0km)
Voltage cl. 87:
12.70 V
Voltage Current Measurement DMTL:
4.98 V
Status motor control:
4.00 0-n
ambient pressure:
966.00 hPa

Dealer said the carbon canister was cracked as well.
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  #4  
Old 10-23-2019, 03:29 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imalabil View Post

Dealer said the carbon canister was cracked as well.

Im sure they did.


Pump is ~150.



Can you change parts?
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  #5  
Old 10-23-2019, 06:16 PM
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I hate to ask but the car is an older model BMW . Why even go to the dealer?! If no cheap Indy look for a mobile mechanic on Craigslist yes there is risks but I've done it and found a great guy. and make sure you watch him do the work but please avoid the dealer this car should not need a dealer ....
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  #6  
Old 10-23-2019, 09:21 PM
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Pelican has the whole a assembly, pump, filter, canister, for $384. It looks like you just drop the inner fender liner at it's right there. I think I'll order one and change it out myself when my daughter gets back from college at Thanksgiving.
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Old 10-23-2019, 11:32 PM
ard ard is offline
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Assuming the dealer's diagnosis is actually true.
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  #8  
Old 10-23-2019, 11:48 PM
ard ard is offline
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So... lets do this...


does the code come back every time after clearing? Or is this intermittent?


You can chase down the schematic, attach a voltmeter and confirm the pump is being activated.


Historically (based on other posts, other forums) it can be a bad pump OR a wiring issue (damage or corrosion).
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2019, 07:06 AM
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Code does not come back immediately, typically takes a few days. I was told the canister was cracked, and the only way that could be is by them inspecting it. I'll see if there are new plastic rivets on the pass side rear wheel arch, since I believe that is the only way they can visually see the canister. Good point about the harness!
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2019, 12:08 PM
ard ard is offline
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If the pump is dead, it would fail every time the sequence runs. I don't know if this is every start. Dunno.


New rivets?!? I'd bet my car they didn't replace rivets, likely didn't look. Far easier to read a code, toss a $1200 estimate at you, charge a diagno$tic fee... And figure 'if he goes for it, there's plenty of money to replace everything'.

GL
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