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  #1  
Old 01-14-2020, 02:46 PM
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Tutorial: Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor and Wire Adapter N62

Ok, so I did the repair myself and it works now. Though I doubt anyone will need this, but just in case if someone searches for this in the future, I will write a tutorial on how to do it...hopefully they can find it. This should work with all cars with N62B44 motor 550i, 750i etc.

Car:
2007 BMW X5 4.8 (E70), N62 Motor


Post with my codes:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1175464
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So basically, the car was in limp mode with all the lights on, abs, dct, transmission failure, limp mode etc etc (see codes attached above).

I took it to the dealer and they said that the crankshaft position sensor and the adaptor connecting to it was shorted. They wanted $1600 to fix it (along with a failed pre-cat oxygen sensor). No way in hell was I going to pay that, so I tried looking to repair it myself.

I went under the car to confirm that the crankshaft position sensor (CPS) failed, and the dealer was correct that it shorted. The CPS has three pins, and the middle pin was melted and separated from the sensor.

The parts total was around $200 (bought some extra parts from dealer too), all bought from FCP Euro (due to their warranty). The part numbers are:

CPS: 13627548995 (~$121) x1
CPS o-ring: 12141748398 (~$0.87) x1
CPS mounting screw: 13627545338 (~$1.00) x1
Socket Housing: 12527507526 (~$3.84) x2 (an extra in case you mess up)
Terminal Socket: 12527545852 (~$0.88) x8 (5 extra in case you mess up (high chance of happening))
Sealing grommet: 61138366245 (~0.48) x5 (2 extra in case you mess up)

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Replacing the Sensor:

The location of the sensor can be found in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1QpwyDigNc

Unlike the video, it is easier to remove all three panels (plastic front, metal under oil pan, metal under transmission pan). You will have a lot more room to work with.

The sensor overall is really easy to replace.

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Replacing the wires:

MAKE SURE YOU REMEMBER THE COLOR COMBINATION OF THE WIRES (take a photo). For me it was, from the top, yellow, black, orange/red. This is with the little knob of the adaptor facing up.

I basically cut the wires as short as possible to not use too much old wire. I tried crimping the terminal sockets under the car, but it was near impossible for me. So here was how I did it:

I bought some 18 gauge wire from HomeDepot. I mounted the wire onto the terminal sockets (without using the green rubber grommets), crimped the terminal socket holders, and soldered the crimped part a little bit to prevent the wire from moving out. You have to make sure that when you are soldering it, the metal soldered cannot be bigger than the front of the terminal socket, or else it won't fit in the blue piece. You will need to do this 3 times (for three wires).

After the three wires are done you will insert it fully into the blue part. Make sure that it is fully inserted, or else the flap on the blue adaptor will not close, and do not try to close the flap for fun, as reopening it will break it. Feel free to order 2 so you can experiment with it (by pulling the flap all the way off) and inserting a terminal socket to see what all the way in is like.

Because I did not use the green grommets, I superglued the ends, and I put some grease on the outside to prevent water from seeping in.

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Now you should have the adaptor ready to reattach to the car. What I did was strip the original wire and the new wire, connect them by twisting the wires onto one another (https://www.maxbotix.com/Tutorials/133.htm), solder them together. I tried fitting a heat shrink in there to waterproof it, but there was no room. Because the wires no longer fit in the plastic housing, I wrapped the wires in Heavy Duty electrical tape (3M) from HomeDept, hoping to make it more water resistant. After wrapping the wires individually, and together in electrical tape, I wrapped the plastic housing of the original wires to the newly wrapped wire connection. I also wrapped the super glued part in water resistant electrical tape too.

After all that, I just plugged the blue adaptor into the new CPS, and wrapped it in a layer of electrical tape (not really necessary but whatever), and started the car. Though the 4x4 light was still on (turns off when you drive 100m or so), all the transmission messages were gone, so I knew the problem was fixed. I put the panels back on and test drove the car and it was good.

Later that day I also took it to a car wash with an under panel wash, and nothing was wrong, so I guess my water resistant electrical tape was working.

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Hope this all helps, sorry I didn't take any photos, and thanks to user: ard for giving me tips.

Overall, if I did it again, it will take 2-3 hours max, but when I did it the first time, it took me around 6-8 hours because I had to figure many things out myself, and I messed up numerous times with the metal terminal sockets.

Good Luck!



Useful links:
https://zerolagperformance.com/bmw-n...arness-repair/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1094462
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2020, 10:00 PM
ard ard is offline
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Location: Sierra Foothills, California
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Edit...wrong thread...


nice work

Last edited by ard; 01-15-2020 at 01:42 AM.
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