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#1
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Question about lug nut removal / reinstall tool
Is there (1) tool that I can buy that handles both 1) removing the lug nuts and 2) re-installing them with to the proper torque specs (I looked up the specs) ...or, do the two above tasks require (2) separate tools? Thanks Tom '12 xDrive50i Dinan Stages 1-4 514 h.p. |
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#2
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Get a breaker bar to take them off, and you'll need a torque wrench if you want to put them back to the exact torque specs.
If you are ok not being at the exact torque, you can get a cordless (or air powered) impact wrench that will do the job for on & off. All of them can be found for not too much $$ |
#3
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For taking them off the use whatever you like - breaker bar and deep socket will be the easiest (loosen them while the car is on ground) but my recommendation is to not guess the tightening torque - use the same breaker bar to do them up 'tight' but not overly so, but then always fully tighten them with a torque wrench - and check again after 100 miles.
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#4
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Painting brake calipers on the car, not removing, just paint the whole deal?!?!
Might as well leave the wheels on too, just spray though The spaces..... |
#5
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I’ve painted rims while they were in the car just stuffed the space is full of plastic grocery bags.
On the serious side if you’re going to work on a car used to have a battery operated impact tool in the mid torque Milwaukee M 18 is probably the most useful one. To install are use torque sticks with the impact gun it gets it within about 5 ft·lb Which is enough to give me within the 0.5% Club of people that are within 4% of the torque spec. When I’m doing a full service job and have my torque adapter out I will also talk to them to exact value. If you don’t have a torque wrench get a digital torque adapter instead.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#6
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I've always gone by the notion that 1/3 of a grunt is about 80 ft-lbs of torque with a 1/2 in ratchet... with gloves on.
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#7
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Never used a torque wrench for wheels in my life..... I should probably do a grunt to Nm test soon :-) [Having said that, I learned a lot of the basics from a skilled mechanic]
OP, if you have never done this, note that the force required to remove the wheel bolts is unrelated to the correct force to reinstall them. All the "pros" install them dry and seemingly use an air wrench set to "space shuttle transport " spec.
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2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner (kid's runabout) 2014 535d X-drive, M package, silver/black interior Sold but not forgotten: 2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (sold 2021) 2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD in 2012 sadly... Other hardware: 2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm) 2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler 2005 Tundra crew cab, weekend hauler. Sold after 150k very happy miles. |
#8
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3rd of a grunt on a 20" breaker bar is significantly more torque than on the wrench supplied with the car.
I guess at the end of the day, as long as they are tight enough to not come off, then lets not over engineer this but I stand the only true way of knowing they have met minimum spec is with a Torque wrench. |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Negative. You need high enough torque they work fine. You need at least twice the rated torque for proper operation of a torque stick.
Both my 760 ft·lb high torque and my 250 ft·lb M12 Milwaukeee will work fine with torque sticks. I watch the pin hole on the socket to watch it stop that's how I know it's done (though with the high torque no need it's done by 3-4 taps off or on)
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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