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  #1  
Old 06-04-2020, 02:51 PM
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No start after injectors removal 2012 35D

Problem was resolved by manually pulling the vacuum from each line. Thank you for all the help.

Last edited by 3BEP6; 07-22-2020 at 09:56 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-04-2020, 10:49 PM
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You need to bleed the system completely of air. I had to replace my rail pressure sensor prior to my x5 being sold, and the car wouldn't start after. The injectors just won't fire if there is no fuel pressure.


follow the instructions for bleeding the fuel system and you should be good
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  #3  
Old 06-05-2020, 12:23 AM
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Thank you, is anybody has the picture of it, can you post it please?
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Old 06-05-2020, 04:19 AM
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May wanna check out this thread, just went through this myself. Ended up bleeding with a vacuum pump then running through the ista test. I also hadnt fully seated my crank position sensor so may want to also double check all connections.


https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1712938
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  #5  
Old 06-06-2020, 04:25 AM
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Thank you, I’ll take a look at that.
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:24 PM
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Took 2 battery charges to get it primed. You have to crank for a long time. 10 seconds with 15 minutes in between. Took a couple of hours- if you can watch rail pressure you can get a feel how successful you are.
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Old 06-19-2020, 03:40 PM
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Thank you for the e90 thread. Downloaded Ista+, performed the bleeding procedure twice, cranked it once for 30 seconds-had a little sputter(we are moving somewhere), on the second time it fired up very roughly, ran for 10 seconds and died. After that crank and no start again. The only code is the same one from before for the fuel rail pressure on start. I bled the system again through the system-nothing(every time I hear the pump activating in the back).

I removed the supply line to check the fuel-pouring at crank, removed the return line and pouring too at crank. Cracked the first injector fuel line as the manifold is on and it’s the only one I can get to and the was some bubbling and fuel coming out the first time, but after that first rough idle I cracked it open again a few times and while the bleeding system is going I don’t really see fuel pouring.

Again, no start just cracking and the same code. Could it be the fuel pressure sensor or valve? As I get the fuel supply as stated above just not into the rail or combustion chamber for some reason?
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Old 06-19-2020, 07:08 PM
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Did anybody have to deal with failed/failing hpfp? It seems like I have fuel everywhere before the hpfp and nothing in the rail after as I described above. Tested the actual values while crancking and I get consistent 1300-1400psi actual value with required 6500 psi...
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  #9  
Old 06-20-2020, 01:33 PM
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Could be wrong, but my suspicion is that you still have air in the system. When I removed my fuel injectors as part of valve cover gasket replacement, I loosened the connection between the high pressure fuel pump and the high pressure accumulator. It is labeled 14 in this realoem link. So I loosened that nut and cranked the engine until I had fuel bubbling up around the threads. At this point you should have eliminated all the air up to the accumulator. Then I tightened that nut down to the proper torque with a fuel line socket. Even with the accumulator filled, there will still be air in the individual hard lines leading to the individual injectors. So it still took me roughly 20 seconds of cranking after I had filled the high pressure accumulator before the car started.


Another thing to consider is that you might have overtightened one or more of the lines going to the individual injectors. I have read elsewhere that if overtightened then fuel flow is essentially cut off. Did you use a fuel line socket that allowed you to torque it properly? If you are using a line box wrench and not checking torque it would be easy to make a mistake. With 2 connections for each fuel line going to each injector - 2 times the 6 injectors is twelve connections, plus the connection number 14 noted above makes 13 possible problem points. Any one of them if overtightened might be causing the problem.


Good luck - hope that helps.


Stephen
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Last edited by sgrice; 06-20-2020 at 01:42 PM.
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2020, 01:56 PM
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Thank you, I did remove the rail line #14 when removing the valve cover, I’ll try to crank the car with it loosened, thank you for the suggestion. I’ve never had this much trouble getting the air out of the system, it shouldn’t be that hard to do it. Attached is the fuel rail reading on start up.

https://imgur.com/a/hz28Gpj
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