Transmission Flush - Do or DON'T??

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by mejim707

Im using INPA now. At IDLE it’s at 14v exact. When I rev the gas the voltage remains the same. When I let off the gas the voltage dips to 13.7 or so then settles on 14 exactly.

The battery on his laptop is shot so unfortunately I can’t drive around with it I can only do this at home. Do those numbers sound like a bad battery? There is another 95 amp hour battery down the street I can just go pick up for 200 bucks. Since the age of the battery is five years plus maybe it would be a good idea to just do that today. I can use ISTA to register the new battery.

Good, sounds like your alternator is okay. Though driving around and monitoring it would be better confirmation, what you have looks good.

Definitely pick up a battery just as a matter of preventative maintenance. Cooler weather is coming anyway and if that battery is border line, it won't be for long. Was going to ask you if temperatures were falling there when you said the performance tanked after being mostly normal.

[mejim707]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

Good, sounds like your alternator is okay. Though driving around and monitoring it would be better confirmation, what you have looks good.

Definitely pick up a battery just as a matter of preventative maintenance. Cooler weather is coming anyway and if that battery is border line, it won't be for long. Was going to ask you if temperatures were falling there when you said the performance tanked after being mostly normal.

Ok The new battery is installed and I’m going to register it using ISTA. It’s a 95 amp hour battery, I had a 95 hour battery in there already. But the original OEM battery was 90. I don’t think it matters that much to register as a 90. If I have to program it I’ll have to take it to the dealer or get ISTA P which is like 80 GB.

We’ll see how it goes

[mejim707]

Sadly the new battery didn’t correct the issue. At least I have a new battery though so for the sake of preventative maintenance that’s done.

At this rate I should just replace my valve Tronic motor for the heck of it lol

[Toothbrush]

Did you get the battery registered to the car?

[mejim707]

Originally Posted by Toothbrush

Did you get the battery registered to the car?

Hey, thanks for the comment! Yeah, I used ISTA to register the battery. Took about two minutes to get it done!

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by mejim707

Sadly the new battery didn’t correct the issue. At least I have a new battery though so for the sake of preventative maintenance that’s done.

At this rate I should just replace my valve Tronic motor for the heck of it lol

I wasn't overly hopeful on the battery and wouldn't have recommended it except you said your batt was 5+ years old. That's about the usable life span of a battery in a modern BMW from my experience.

@ 250k I guess the valve tronic could be getting sluggish, but with the codes you have it wouldn't be my first salvo in the parts cannon.

[mejim707]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

I wasn't overly hopeful on the battery and wouldn't have recommended it except you said your batt was 5+ years old. That's about the usable life span of a battery in a modern BMW from my experience.

@ 250k I guess the valve tronic could be getting sluggish, but with the codes you have it wouldn't be my first salvo in the parts cannon.

It’s all good man you gave me the inspiration I needed to replace it anyway. It was going to go bad at some point who knows maybe even this winter.

After the full system reset, and resetting all of the modules, that O2 sensor code came back as pending. There’s definitely something going on there I need to go look at the O2 sensor tomorrow. I read that a bad O2 sensor could cause shuttering and shaking during acceleration. I hope that’s what’s up!