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  #1  
Old 02-19-2022, 08:29 PM
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Cleaned vanos, now it runs WORSE! Where did I go wrong?!?

2010 X5 N62 4.8 90k miles

I understand that I should probably just replace them, but figured I'd try to clean them first. i THOUGHT, that worst case, it made no improvement.

I was dealing with a minor misfire issue. By minor, I mean you noticed a slight loss in power and it would come and go. CEL is on and my scanner said I have a misfire in cylinder 4.

Thought process...
clean and check vanos
clean and check PCV
rules those two out and continue troubleshooting if necessary

PCV system had several cracks in the hoses that were taped together with electrical tape. It had run decent before, but I pulled one of the hoses out of the tape (not realizing it was taped together under the foam). So I cut all the tape off and re-taped. I'll replace, but this is to get me by until I can replace this week. I will have to order the parts.

I removed, cleaned and re-installed the solenoids and now it the engine runs horrible. Misfires, studders, barely runs.

Now I have these errors codes
P0300
P030...all the cylinders

Now I have these error codes too
P0011
P0014
P0017
P0018
P0019
P0024

Potential issues with my install:

I ran into a similar issue as posted here:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...stall-n62.html

You could see the green o-rings, so I took the advice from this post and put the o-rings in the bore first and then carefully put the vanos in so that it would not push the o-ring into the engine.

I also don't think they are seated properly.



All the photos I see have the clips facing this way (above - not my photo, but same idea). I pushed hard on the vanos until I thought I was going to break something and they won't go in any further. But the clips only fit facing the other way (from the photo). Flat surface against vanos and then the legs curl away from the solenoid rather than toward it holding it in. Of all the times to forget to take a photo before I started a project - I did it this time. Or, didn't do it (take a photo). I'd have to get them to seat another 1/8-1/4" into the engine to have the clips work facing the other way. Do you really have to push THAT hard to seat them? Even if what I did wasn't correct, would that be causing the horrible misfires? (yes, it needs to be fixed if I did it wrong, but just didn't know if it would be the cause of the issue)

Are the wire harnesses on the right intake/exhaust solenoid? I've read this is a common mistake. But I'm pretty sure I have this right. The wire splits and I used the wire that splits off for the top solenoid and the other wire for the lower. Based on the wire length and angle they are run, this seems to make sense and also matches what I see here.

And matches the diagram here:
https://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/7_s...n62)/page_872/
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2022, 08:35 PM
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Also I cleaned the harness with electrical connector cleaner - although they didn't really look that dirty.
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Old 02-19-2022, 09:02 PM
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You need to oil the o-ring to install and find a YouTube video showing tip of on solenoid or in engine first.

They won't work probably not in all the way.
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Old 02-19-2022, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
You need to oil the o-ring to install and find a YouTube video showing tip of on solenoid or in engine first.

They won't work probably not in all the way.
I've watched a few youtube videos and most people seem to agree they "are hard to push in"...but dang, I feel like I'm going to break something if I push on them any harder.

It's hard to see where they would bottom out if pushed in further, but it does look like they could go in a little further. I'll try to rig up something to push against them and try again.
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Old 02-20-2022, 12:21 AM
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I cleaned client e92 n52 and I seem to recall using a literal crowbar to push them in


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Old 02-20-2022, 01:15 AM
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Don't just push…. Try and wiggle/twist while pushing, ideally this will allow the seals to seat first, while allowing it to then advance.

(Ive not worked on this motor, only the S62 which has 4 per bank AND mounted on a PCB. You’re trying to wiggle a bit but NOT break wires…. Talk about a clencher...)
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  #7  
Old 02-20-2022, 01:51 AM
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I had the same issue when trying to use new o-rings. Using a mallet was the only solution and that was after a gave up on the new o-rings


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Old 02-20-2022, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E53Envyy View Post
I had the same issue when trying to use new o-rings. Using a mallet was the only solution and that was after a gave up on the new o-rings


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I finally got to that point to (pounding) but I was afraid I would go over board and break something if I used a mallet. haha
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Old 02-20-2022, 07:39 PM
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So I finally got them seated like they should be. Just finished up and headed out shortly to clear the codes and test drive. I ran it in the driveway for a few minutes and it sounded much better.

I decided to "pry" rather than "pound" and literally used a hockey stick against the aluminum beam above the radiator as a fulcrum. The taped handle of the hockey stick is softer than the blunt end of a crow bar - so in my mind it was less likely to damage the end of the solenoid. It seemed to work and they popped in. God help me when I need to get those bastards back out.

I also used some assembly lubricant like this product
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-81950

Its the same stuff you use on rod bearings so it can obviously come in contact with engine oil without issues. I figured the solenoid was already covered in oil and that wasn't enough, so this might help it slide in. (that's what she said)

Anyway...it worked. Now back to fixing the original issue that started be down this rabbit hole!
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2022, 11:09 PM
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I passed the crow bar. That's great news though.
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