Electrical issues following jump start

[willyworm*]

2011 35d, fully deleted with JR Tune.

So I messed up the other day and left my parking lights on. Came out at the end of the day to head home and she had some juice left but not quite enough to start her up. Pulled out my cables and texted a buddy for a jump, eventually got her started but not without some drama.

Since then some things are jacked up and I can't seem to pinpoint the root cause. The car thinks the driver's door is open, so it doesn't want to let me drive with the safety feature that's built in. I also do not have controls of the driver's and passenger front windows. Indication points to the driver's door cluster not having power somehow. Power windows are dead as well. I assume the windows, mirrors and door contact are all tied to that cluster.

Furthermore, hazard lights and door lock button are also not functioning. Car is telling me to get service and that there is lighting malfunction. No kidding...

First natural thought was to check fuses... I cannot find a single fuse that's blown. I'm stumped boiz and was hoping the brain trust might have some expert insight to point me in the right direction.

[andrewwynn]

You can't just jump and drive the battery needs a charge. I would charge the battery then clear the dozen or so codes set due to the low battery situation and go from there

[willyworm*]

I've done it in the past with no issue, doesn't make it right of course.

Figured I'd try to do a "hard reset" by disconnecting the battery completely. Reconnected after a couple days of sitting (I'm at home recovering from a surgery, so I'm not driving her every day) and issue did not go away.

Been dragging my feet on getting a reader. Looks like it's time to get the Bimmergeeks Protool and a harness.

[andrewwynn]

You got away with a jump on the past becusse battery wasn't very dead. You may have damaged some modules but you won't know until the battery has a working state of charge.

I use foxwell nt710 and bimmerlink for code reading.

[ard]

give this a read... https://mca.electricmura.ro/en/blog-...-module-issue/


FRM, JBE are on my short list....

[josiahg52]

FRM. Mine got toasted due to a voltage excursion. Eventually, I was reimbursed under the extended warranty. First step is definitely charge the battery fully, though.

[ard]

If you search 'BMW FRM e70' you will find a TON of hits: companies (ie people) that will test or fix them...descriptions of what issues you typically see...etc etc.


From a low of 100 for a used one to $300 to repair one. One place charges 99 to test, I think if it is bad 250 to fix- with the 99 covered in there....

[willyworm*]

Thanks for the replies gents. Since I'm running a JR Tune, fully deleted, I started by asking the fine folks at AA Rodriguez that I got everything from what code reader they recommended. Said to go with ProTools so that's what I did. App is downloaded, but I always prefer a wired connection when possible so I ordered the BimmerGeeks pro cable or whatever it's called. Ships from AL today, should be here by the weekend.

Hopefully the rain continues to hold off until then since I can't roll my front 2 windows up.

Leaning towards some damaged electronics since all fuses are good. Full expecting to replace a component somewhere.

Was watching a YouTube vid of the ProTools and looks like it can provide status reports of all the control modules on board (like I'm sure most others do as well). Hopefully it should lead me right to the culprit.

[Zulu95]

Cannot go wrong with BimmerGeeks. They provide outstanding producr support! About 1 million times better than Foxwell I might add.

[andrewwynn]

TapeManBlue Crash Wrap, 36 inch x 200 feet, Clear Collision Wrap for Damaged Vehicles & Car Windows, Removes Cleanly, Made in America https://a.co/d/7YwIKU6

Protool looks like the android version of bimmerlink/bimmercode. With any luck the expert mode is translated from German.