Looking at 2011 35i with 180K km - advice?

[RhythmMachine]

Our DD/tow vehicle (ML320 Bluetec) was totalled not long ago and I've been hunting for a replacement. Came across a well-priced 2011 35i in town. It's high mileage (works out to around 110K miles?) and has a "rebuilt" status due to an accident a number of years ago that damaged the front passenger side fender and bumper, but no structural damage and the current owner has been driving it for several years so it will reduce resale value (good while I'm buying) but shouldn't result in any further gremlins in the system.

I have an E46 M3 (2003) and I've done a ton of coding on that, so I'm somewhat familiar with BMW stuff, but it's been a few years since I've done any of that and I'm new to the E70.


Along with a visual inspection and test drive I'll take along my Foxwell N510 Elite to see what codes are popping up. If I like what I see, I think I'll still get a trusted BMW indy to do an inspection, but don't want to sink the time and money into that if there are things I should spot beforehand. Here are the things I've noted to watch for... anything else I should keep in mind?

• Start it up cold when I arrive (ask him not to warm it for me) and see how it starts/any odd noises
• Check for oil leaks, especially filter housing gasket and drips under from pan gasket
• If it has air suspension, check rear bags.
• Listen for clicking at idle (plugs, coils, or VANOS)
• It has a hitch, but I'll see if it has wiring in place for trailer connection outside and brake controller inside
• Electronic functions (seats, stereo, locking/unlocking, rear liftgate)

If I do end up getting it, sounds like these are the things I can plan on doing in the near future if there aren't adequate service records or if there are records but they haven't been done:

• New transmission fluid, pan, and filter
• Oil filter housing gasket (preemptive) and oil pan gasket (when needed)
• Belt and belt tensioner
• Water pump and thermostat
• Maybe coolant hoses

Anything else I should be watching out for? I expect to be doing some maintenance on it, but the price is low enough to make that worthwhile.

[Daytonawim]

Check for water leaks, at the Floor of the bonnet, left en right compartiments. Check if the Floor under the front and rear Seats are dry.

Check if the valve cover is leaking, at the rear left, there is an small ridge, from there oil will drip on the catalysator.

Check te State of the multi belt, if there is a leak from the OFH it will destroy the belt.

The oilpan gasket is a serios DIY PIA to replace, in the shop a very expensive job.

[RhythmMachine]

Update - passed on that one (it had a few too many questionable characteristics) but checked out a 2012 with only 140K km. Seemed to be in much better shape, but when I pulled the codes there were a couple that concerned me:


2E10 - valvetronic system; disabled, warning threshold value, feedback control deviations exceeded too often (seems like may be resolved by resetting adaptations, DME update, or may require replacement of valvetronic motor and eccentric cam shaft). Error snapshot details say that the target current supply VVT engin is 45.28A and actual value, eccentric angle VVT is 77.70.


A82E - gear selector switch GWS interlock E faulty (which may make it inconsistent or impossible to go from sport to normal or manual, but can also prevent car from getting into/out of park or forward or reverse gear)


It looks like each of those only occurred once, and when I did the test drive there were no issues with rough idle, pulsing/rpm fluctuations, or anything like that... the car drove very cleanly. Almost no repairs have been needed for the current owner (who bought it at about 25K km and have driven it to 130K, with mostly highway miles) apart from oil changes every 8K km.



Any red flags there?

[Daytonawim]

There was an recall for the valvetronic, in the past, look for Google a repair is not cheap.

You have a shortlist of possible problems, check if some stuf is already, otherwise keep in kind that those repairs will find there way to you (and your wallet) in time.

My 2 cents. If the car looks clean and Well treated, bring it to the BMW dealer for a check (cost a few quit) and make a decision. They also can read out the key, and see if the car was at the dealer.
Make up your mind after inspection, so you can Bargain the price.

Also there is a recall for the 2 front airbags ( free of charge) replacement.

When I purchased my car I made a soort of plan an kept some reserve money tho take car of some thinks, some of them preventive.


And every car you look at will have some issues.

[RhythmMachine]

Originally Posted by Daytonawim

There was an recall for the valvetronic, in the past, look for Google a repair is not cheap.

You have a shortlist of possible problems, check if some stuf is already, otherwise keep in kind that those repairs will find there way to you (and your wallet) in time.

My 2 cents. If the car looks clean and Well treated, bring it to the BMW dealer for a check (cost a few quit) and make a decision. They also can read out the key, and see if the car was at the dealer.
Make up your mind after inspection, so you can Bargain the price.

Also there is a recall for the 2 front airbags ( free of charge) replacement.

When I purchased my car I made a soort of plan an kept some reserve money tho take car of some thinks, some of them preventive.


And every car you look at will have some issues.

Thanks - absolutely agree that when I'm buying a 10-year old vehicle there will be issues either at purchase or shortly down the road, and I expect that, whether they are things I can resolve myself or whether I need to take it to my indy specialist. I'll try to find out more about the valvetronic recall, to see if it's been done, if it's still available if it hasn't been done, and what the impact may be if it hasn't been done and is no longer available.



The car I tested last night seemed very well-maintained and cared for, and it was just surprising for me (after my E46 M3 and 2009 MB ML320) for it to not have an extensive repair history... I thought all cars did! This one seems to have just been working reliably with regular maintenance. Only real issue for me is that it doesn't have a hitch/brake controller wiring, which is easy enough to rectify but will add another $1K CAD to the end cost.


UPDATE - made an offer that would allow for the additional cost for the hitch and the seller accepted, so as of this afternoon I'll be the proud owner of a 2012 X5 335i. Looking forward to getting it and enjoying it!