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#1
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I’ve ordered both CHRAs with forged billet wheels. I started another thread with questions about those (longevity because of lp egr).
I’ve got the intake gaskets and vcg along with crush washers and o rings for injectors. I’ve got an injector because I think #6 isn’t pulling its weight (replaced #5 a few years ago) I’ve got the full turbo install kit (gaskets & oil drain pipe, etc…) New exhaust manifold studs and nuts along with gaskets Will order 3 new oil feed lines (should I go with whitebread or factory?) Might order 6 glow plugs. Controller was done but plugs haven’t been. (I’m worried about them breaking in there… This is getting expensive…. Still need to figure out how to clean the dpf or where to take it. Still need to figure out if the lp egr will damage my new billet turbo wheel. Anything else you guys see that I should take care of while I’ve got her tore down? This is getting to be a very big job for a long weekend in my driveway so even if you just have “emotional support” to offer, please do. It’s looking like I’m gonna need all the help I can get. At the very least keep your fingers and toes crossed that no exhaust studs or glow plugs break and the CHRAs aren’t problematic getting the housings seated and clocked. Ugh… this is gonna suck…
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- Tom ‘10 E70 diesel, hud, hot/cold weather, 3rd row. |
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#2
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Very cogent dialogue, we are of the same opinion. I love mine and very much enjoy it. I do not have HUD, nor hw/cw pkg. Couldn't be more pleased with its smooth, unrelenting torque either.
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#3
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Holy crap nuggets that sucked, Batman…
So I took off work between Christmas and new years to tear this down. Engine supported, subframe down, lp egr cooler removed, dpf out, large (lp) turbo out. Out the top went the vacuum “spider” of doom, small (hp) turbo, etc.. The soot was horrendous. A thick layer of it everywhere. Lucky my vcg isn’t leaking oil out or it would have been too much mess to ever get cleaned up. As I disassembled, I left the soot alone to try to work out exactly where it’s come from. I still can’t tell for certain. I see evidence of the changeover valve leaking which is terrible because a new CHRA won’t fix that. Nothing will. So I ordered a new lower turbo from fcp euro. The compressor side of everything was caked with soot so I suspect it’s mostly coming from the manifold to head gasket. I still have the exhaust manifold to remove and since I’m back to work already, I figured I’d soak the manifold studs with aerokroil every day till the weekend. It can’t hurt, right? So I broke a few bolts during the removal process. Bracket bolt and lp egr cooler bolt are broke off in the dpf. I’ll send it out to be cleaned and evaluated anyway. I’ll be putting a new dpf in so I just have to buy the bolts I broke and I’m all set there. I also broke the def metering valve trying to unhook the disconnect on the line. It was just old and brittle. And the most fun part I broke is one of the bolts for the small turbo (yes, in the exhaust manifold). This won’t be fun. So I’ve ordered another $4000 worth of parts for this job and it’ll be here next Friday. I am seriously considering just buying a new exhaust manifold for 2 reasons. 1) I don’t want to have to drill out that already broken bolt. 2) it’s been leaking exhaust from the gasket to aluminum head connection. I’m fearful that trying to reuse the old manifold will just cause me to have to do all this work over again. I’m sure those of you who’ve done this job or do it for a living are laughing at me calling it a lot of work but in a driveway with no lift and having to massage every bolt so the remainder don’t snap, is a lot of work. Especially when your hands aren’t meant to be where they need to be to do it. So what say you? New manifold is ~$800. If I sell the CHRAs for a small loss, I’ll recoup half the $ for a new manifold. I’m tempted to take it to the machine shop and have them tank it and spec the mating surface, but idk if it’s worth the risk. Just the gasket set for both turbos is ~$600. Seems like the potential to spend 1400 (manifold and gaskets again) instead of 800 is too much to risk. Advice?
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- Tom ‘10 E70 diesel, hud, hot/cold weather, 3rd row. |
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#4
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I’m all for fixing things but I just looked and found several e70 diesels selling for around 6k. Personally I would have sold the car for parts and bought another e70.
I commend you for going forward with the repairs, some pictures would be very beneficial. I have a used dpf on standby for the day I would ever need it. |
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#5
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I’m very much in agreement with you and had I thought at the start that this was possible, I’d have parted it and replaced it as well. I really didn’t suspect that it would go this far and at some point, it’s time to cut my losses. However, what’s done is done. Once I’d gone through the expense of doing the front steering and suspension (including a new rack & Bilsteins), new radiator, shudder valve, and many other parts, I thought I’d be good for a bit. Turns out, new turbos were in order and with all the sunk $ already, I might as well freshen up everything. At that point the decision was 4-5k$ on turbos and a refresh or 6-10k$ for a new great big set of “what ifs”. I couldn’t get what I have for the new $ I would spend (in this market) so I chose to ignore the already sunk costs and push on with what I already have and already know. If I could go back in time to before the steering rack and suspension, it wouldn’t make any sense to do what I did if I could’ve know all this would transpire as it did.
Both Borg-Warner turbos are here from fcp (lifetime warranty) but as we’re in the middle of a winter storm this weekend, I’ll have to wait to remove the manifold till next weekend. Then I can start reassembling. Has anyone gotten new turbos from Borg-Warner? Holy crap the castings are horrible… grind marks, lots of casting defects, etc. nothing that would effect performance but man are they ugly. Also got new oil feed and return lines, new o2 sensor, 2 temp sensors, new def dosing valve and a bunch more stuff. I don’t want any more surprises. Wish me luck. I’ll keep updating.
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- Tom ‘10 E70 diesel, hud, hot/cold weather, 3rd row. |
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#6
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Wishing you luck!
Good man. Mine has 199k miles. Wife driven, Seat leather pristine. I mean it has been babied from mile 1. (I dont think she has ever pressed the skinny pedal enogh to downshift) So if i was faced with 5k, 10k to get another 100k miles, it would be worth it (for me). Heck, even give the car to one of the kids when she got tired of driving a dated car.... I tore down a Q45 engine in my unheated garage during xmas break many years ago...so feel your pain. (And that was in the brutal califonia cold! )Keep us posted! |
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#7
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Quick update;
I was able to get the exhaust manifold off last weekend and only broke one stud. The machine shop (IDM cylinder heads) magnafluxed it and it’s not cracked anywhere. It does have a slight bend in the flange (.035) that they’re going to machine flat. I also broke a turbo bolt off on the manifold which they’re going to fix. I should have it back by tonight. This weekend is gonna be hectic to get this all put back. Does anyone have torque values for all this stuff in one place? I don’t want to spend half the weekend searching for correct torque specs…
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- Tom ‘10 E70 diesel, hud, hot/cold weather, 3rd row. |
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#8
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Oh, and I definitely found my exhaust leak. Cylinder #1 exhaust manifold gasket was blown out forward. The middle layers of gasket were gone. Thank god. After tearing everything down, I was concerned the leak in the turbo housing wasn’t large enough to create the scale of soot I was finding. Most said it’s the turbos, you’d be surprised how much leaks out of the changeover bushing hole when it fails. Good thing I went the extra mile and pulled the manifold anyway. That’s a lot of work to do twice and the gasket kit to R&R turbos to pull it is expensive. Leaving the exhaust manifold on and assuming the leak I found was the only leak, would’ve been a costly and very time consuming mistake. Sometimes it pays to be hyper vigilant, especially “while you’re in there”.
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- Tom ‘10 E70 diesel, hud, hot/cold weather, 3rd row. |
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#9
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So I’ve got a few exhaust manifold studs that are still in the head. I tried those external bolt extractors tonight without success. I’ll try a collet type tomorrow. If that doesn’t work, I guess I’m getting out the welder and buying a handful of carbon steel nuts.
Will update tomorrow with progress.
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- Tom ‘10 E70 diesel, hud, hot/cold weather, 3rd row. |
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#10
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Gotta find a new picture hosting service because I have some things to share.
Got the manifold back and it’s nice. They did an excellent job and actually blasted the whole thing for me. I cleaned it up and rattlecanned it white (almost ceramic haha). I’d like to cure it but the wife threatened divorce if I put it in her oven. Tempting offer… So I’m just gonna start reassembling and “cure it on the car”. Anyone know the torque speck of all this stuff? I was supposed to find a good reference before I started reassembly but haven’t found one yet. Cleaning up the block now. Will update and eventually post some pics.
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- Tom ‘10 E70 diesel, hud, hot/cold weather, 3rd row. |
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