Code 3164 Purge Valve Fuel Tank Vent

[treimche]

The other day my X5 smelled like gas fumes really badly and it stunk up the inside of the cabin and the whole garage after driving for a while. I read the error codes with Pro Tool and there are a few: 3164 fuel tank ventilation system 2nd inlet point malfunction, 2D43 Valvetronic adjustment range fault range check, and 2D44 Valvetronic adjustment range range check deviation to master adaptation.

I replaced the fuel tank vent a couple years ago after purchasing this X5 and it was throwing a code 3163: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...36157#warranty and one of the other hoses along with that. I can't imagine the fuel tank vent already went bad. I will take it apart to inspect and see what I can find. Any other ideas?

I replaced the valve cover and #5/#6 injectors in June of last year to fix a bad oil leak from the gasket, and had hopes of it curing the warm start idle surge I had, but the idle surge is still there. Also looking for some insight or recommendations there. Thanks.

[ajacks8]

Originally Posted by treimche

The other day my X5 smelled like gas fumes really badly and it stunk up the inside of the cabin and the whole garage after driving for a while. I read the error codes with Pro Tool and there are a few: 3164 fuel tank ventilation system 2nd inlet point malfunction, 2D43 Valvetronic adjustment range fault range check, and 2D44 Valvetronic adjustment range range check deviation to master adaptation.

I replaced the fuel tank vent a couple years ago after purchasing this X5 and it was throwing a code 3163: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...36157#warranty and one of the other hoses along with that. I can't imagine the fuel tank vent already went bad. I will take it apart to inspect and see what I can find. Any other ideas?

I replaced the valve cover and #5/#6 injectors in June of last year to fix a bad oil leak from the gasket, and had hopes of it curing the warm start idle surge I had, but the idle surge is still there. Also looking for some insight or recommendations there. Thanks.

Guessing it’s a 35i…my Indy shop notified me of a BMW service bulletin that could resolve it completely. I guess you just unplug the fuel vent valve, run for 15mins, then shut off and plug back in. I had him print the bulletin for me in case I ever needed….ill try to attach it here.





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[treimche]

Originally Posted by ajacks8

Guessing it’s a 35i…my Indy shop notified me of a BMW service bulletin that could resolve it completely. I guess you just unplug the fuel vent valve, run for 15mins, then shut off and plug back in. I had him print the bulletin for me in case I ever needed….ill try to attach it here.

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You are correct, it is a 35i. I did that procedure yesterday, so I'll see how it runs and if it smells this weekend since I'll be doing a decent amount of driving. I also read that when filling with gas, to never add more fuel after the pump stops pumping. I almost always pump slowly a second time to squeeze a bit more gas in the tank. But the weird thing is this problem happened when I had 1/2 tank of gas, not when it was full.

Here's a link to that bulletin you posted too:https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...63029-9999.pdf

[andrewwynn]

Two very separate problems. Unplugging the purge valve is just a shortcut to run in. Driving a distance does the same but the purge valve trick resets the computer and you can clear errors without driving in limp mode.

It sounds like you had/have an actual defect in the purge valve system but i had one that diagnostics pegged to the pump but it was momentary and fixed itself. If you smell gas you might have a faulty vapor canister vent or hose.

The Valvetronic is a very different problem. The sensor is built into the motor. If you are getting limit or other Valvetronic errors, and if you get very rough launches especially when cold, it's usually the Valvetronic motor.

You can unplug the motor and the card will use the backup throttle plate. It'll still be very jerky when cold but barely noticeable when warmed up.

I found a German made VT motor on eBay for about $230. It's quite a procedure to change since it's under 4 of 6 injectors which are under the valve cover.


–awr–

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[treimche]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Two very separate problems. Unplugging the purge valve is just a shortcut to run in. Driving a distance does the same but the purge valve trick resets the computer and you can clear errors without driving in limp mode.

It sounds like you had/have an actual defect in the purge valve system but i had one that diagnostics pegged to the pump but it was momentary and fixed itself. If you smell gas you might have a faulty vapor canister vent or hose.

The Valvetronic is a very different problem. The sensor is built into the motor. If you are getting limit or other Valvetronic errors, and if you get very rough launches especially when cold, it's usually the Valvetronic motor.

You can unplug the motor and the card will use the backup throttle plate. It'll still be very jerky when cold but barely noticeable when warmed up.

I found a German made VT motor on eBay for about $230. It's quite a procedure to change since it's under 4 of 6 injectors which are under the valve cover.


–awr–

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Thanks for the replies. I'll wait a while and see if the gas vapor smell comes back and then go from there.

My idle issue isn't when cold, it only happens when the engine is warm.

[andrewwynn]

Codes?

Idle hiccups very often from cps then dirty injectors.


–awr–

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