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  #31  
Old 06-13-2012, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
FYI- In 2008, 2009 the Sport Package included Adaptive Drive (AD) (which is the active sway bars, etc)

But in 2010 on, you only got AD with AD - in other words a "sport package" car no longer includes this $3500 option.

I've wondered how the used market will price this option with the weird packaging as the years change...
Why's everyone always exclude the 2007? What about the 2007, ard?
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  #32  
Old 05-13-2013, 12:11 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks for the write-up. I replaced my water pump and thermostat on my E70 this past weekend after getting a P0128 CEL. The instructions made things a lot easier and faster (still took me 10 hours though, lol). Things that I noticed was I didn't have a coolant drain plug so I had to detach a radiator hose to drain the coolant. Universal joint sockets and extensions is a must. Going through wheel well is necessary.

Do I need to reset the cel light with a code reader or does it automatically go away?

Thx,

Doug
2008 BMW X5 3.0
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  #33  
Old 05-13-2013, 07:37 PM
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No problem, glad it was helpful.

What's a cel light?

seriously.....I didn't set mine (if I have one).
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  #34  
Old 05-16-2013, 03:59 PM
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I'm talking about the Check Engine Light. I just went to my neighborhood Autozone and had them reset it. Hopefully it will stay off now.

Thanks,

Doug
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  #35  
Old 05-16-2013, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freshwun View Post
Just wanted to say thanks for the write-up. I replaced my water pump and thermostat on my E70 this past weekend after getting a P0128 CEL. The instructions made things a lot easier and faster (still took me 10 hours though, lol). Things that I noticed was I didn't have a coolant drain plug so I had to detach a radiator hose to drain the coolant. Universal joint sockets and extensions is a must. Going through wheel well is necessary.

Do I need to reset the cel light with a code reader or does it automatically go away?

Thx,

Doug
2008 BMW X5 3.0
When a 'fresh code' is set, the CEL illuminates. The code is stored. After a certain number of run cycles, if there is no 'fresh' or 'present' code, the light will go off, but the code remains. The problem many people have is that the next time the CEL illuminates, you get all codes since the last reset, even those that might have been fixed or went away.

This is why you will read advice of "clear the codes see what returns"...unless you are on top of it and know for sure the last time you cleared them.

Nice work.

A

PS Why no 2007 love? You busted me- I didnt know for sure if 2007 had AD and sport, so didnt want to list it
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  #36  
Old 07-18-2013, 06:44 PM
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Is there any way that this can be made an article and then placed in the Article section.Texan did a great job and it would be easier for people to find. when making this repair on a e70 3.0

Thanks
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  #37  
Old 06-13-2016, 11:17 AM
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Just updated the title to make it easier to find
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  #38  
Old 05-20-2017, 06:26 PM
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I have a 2008 X5 3.00si and changed the thermostat today. A PITA!!! I took me 5 hours.

Here is how I did it:

I put the car on ramps and remove everything underneath. I also remove the wall in the passenger side wheel. I didn't remove the wheel.

The fan is different than the one described here.It doesn't have any screws but tabs at both sides that clip into the radiator housing. This was very hard to figured out and I wasted a lot of time here.

At this point I could see everything, the hoses (two) with clamps, very easy to remove. The other two a PITA. The radiator does;t have a drain plug so removing the houses the system got drained.

The thermostat went out from the top.

Put everything back in reverse. The space to work is tiny but now I can celebrate. $1,500 from one pocket to the other one.

Cheers.
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  #39  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:16 PM
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With a stuck-close t-stat, would the method described by killcrap in post #6 still work in terms of confirming a failed WP?
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  #40  
Old 08-12-2017, 07:59 PM
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About 10 days ago the coolant reservoir on my wife's girlfriend's 2008 X5 3,0 si had a crack about 5 inches long. I replaced the reservoir a week ago. Now the engine overheats. I applied the failed-WP-confirmation procedure that killcrap had outlined in post #6. In my case, the flow of coolant to the reservoir is pulsed, not a constant-flow, and I can hear the pulsed coolant movement in hoses with noise of "air bubble sputtering."

What does this pulsed coolant flow back to the reservoir mean? Is the WP working or not? If the WP is working, then the overheating is caused by a stuck-close t-stat, right?
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