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#11
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Hi Basora: I hope never to sound harsh with my response. Lets take the easiest part of your recent post. I gather I was not clear e'nuff in my explanation about the taper and the ball joint. I am not suggesting you will be removing the ball end from the thrust arm you have shown in your photo. Removing the old thrust arm will require you pulling the old taper from the control arm on the wheel spindle. Removing the nut will be the easy part. As to the question "New nut or old". This is where I may seem to be harsh. It is not my intention. BMW's repair manual directs their dealerships all over the world to comply with the standards in their instruction manuals. This is for safety, reliability, and from great empirical evidence. In the task I quoted earlier, BMW directs the factory trained mechanics to replace the nut. Period. I simply quoted BMW when I told you you would need a new nut, as did the parts guy. You have decided you want to replace the worn thrust arm yourself. This might be to save money, perhaps you like to work on your own car, or some combination of the two. You need to ask yourself a question. "If I were to hire BMW to do the job, and I later found that they failed to precisely follow the factory workshop and re-used a part that was specified as requiring replacement, would I be satisfied or not?" How you answer that question may help you decide on how to proceed. BMW has perhaps recognized that some components, like this self-locking nut, are a critical component, and should that component fail, loss of life may result. Nuts of the construction used in this case employ a self locking feature in the finger like tangs. Once used, the self locking effect is compromised. So I ask you, "When working on your own vehicle, why should your standards be any less than those of a factory trained mechanic?" Please carefully consider the small savings involved. Be Safe, Dick |
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#12
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Thanks again.
__________________
PAX5 BMW CCA #20645 |
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