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Old 09-09-2014, 07:35 AM
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First Diesel, 35d, Questions...

Never owned a diesel vehicle before. If I'm doing my own oil changes what do I need to know about the urea etc? I do know I can't just pee in the tank... Anyone have a source other than BMW?

Adding Urea To Clean Diesel Cars: Can I Just Pee In The Tank?
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Last edited by Lambeau; 09-09-2014 at 08:14 PM. Reason: No longer need original post
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Old 09-24-2014, 02:05 PM
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I just spent some time researching this as well, just picked up a 2011 X5d. The UREA is standardized per the EPA so ANY urea will work. The stuff at BMW seems to be a BMW style ripoff. I found 2.5 gallon jugs at autozone for $11.99. The tank seems to hold 6 gallons and will let you know when you have 1000 miles left basically. It should last a LONG time (oil change interval long). You can fill the tank yourself, get a good long funnel or even better get a cap/hose combo that'll screw into the jug. I found one that has a long clear hose and the ability to turn the flow on/off. I haven't tried to fill it yet but I think it will need it soon as the car only has 15,000 miles on it and has had 3 oil changes (one a year) but nothing shows them filling the tank...
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:33 PM
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i buy the 2.5 gal blue def jug from autozone which comes with a hose. depending on use, it will last a long time. Just don't forget that there are two fill points. Yes, i spill but i also just carry a bottle of water with me to rinse it off so no big deal.

As for my oil changes, I found that surprisingly, a dealer close to me sells the oil change kit (oil, filter, o-rings) for the same price as I could source online. Don't forget.. there IS a dip stick.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:21 AM
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Thanks for the help guys. I just bought a container of the DEF and will try to find the fill system you describe Proflyer. I see the one fill point near the oil filter housing but can't find the other fill point. Do both points need to be filled? Yeah, it took me a while to find the dipstick. My M6 doesn't have a dipstick and I didn't think this had it either. Thanks again!
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Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming: "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!"

2007 M6
2018 Chevy 2500HD Diesel Alaskan Edition
2011 X5 35d
1972 Chevy K20 4X4
1972 Ford F-600
1959 Chevy Viking 60 Dump Truck
2015 CanAm Outlander XT 1000

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Old 09-25-2014, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambeau View Post
I see the one fill point near the oil filter housing but can't find the other fill point. Do both points need to be filled?!
Here are some pics and diagrams

DEF system


The nossle near oil filter is for the passive tank. As shown in diagram above, the tank itself is pretty far down in the middle of the vehicle.


Here's the opening for active tank:


Experienced DYIers (lcapital, or zetatre) recommend never opening the Active tank to avoid debree and oxidation getting to it. Instead, always keep the Passive tank full (not wait for the 999 mile warning). That way, he passive tank never gets empty and thus sensor has no chance to get exposed to air. A few people have big problems with sensor getting encrusted with DEF after exposure to air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lpcapital View Post
After discovering that the only serviceable filter in the SCR system is between the passive and the active tank, I decided to leave the active tank sealed and closed and only refill the passive tank and let the transfer pump move the fluid. That way the active tank only gets fluid that has gone through a filter...

Last edited by seattle; 09-25-2014 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:13 PM
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^^ Good info.

Although I am skeptical of the 'dont fill the passive tank' advice. Filling it with fluid quickly; immersing it in fluid; ensuring it isnt partially covered then exposed would be the strategy to prevent crystalization. IMO. Once the tank is filled and closed the open space in the system will very quickly reach saturation. Be it one liter of space of 6 liters. No?
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:48 PM
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The problem is,once the transfer pump goes bad(and it does)the active tank will go under half mark before the "No start" warning comes on the dash.Mu pump went bad and now i fill the active tank every 1500-2000 miles and learn to live with the CEL.There is also a code for active tank temp sensor,so to get rid of the CEL it will be $750 for parts alone,that is wholesale price for the active tank and transfer pump.
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