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#11
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#12
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My mechanic replaced the Fuel Injection Pressure Sensor on the top drivers side of the intake manifold. Part # 13627792260. It fixed my condition. It's a $50 part and now that I know it's easily accessible for DIY.
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#13
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So you had all those codes come up and changing this sensor fixed it all? If thats the case i would be willing to try it for $50 versus a new MAF, which is one of my codes.
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2011 35d |
#14
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Yes, that fixed my issue. My mechanic actually started with installing a new MAF but we still had problems so that's what led him to change the pressure sensor.
He returned the MAF. |
#15
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I replaced the sensor, $77, but the light is back, grrr! Ill reset the light and give it another day.
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2011 35d |
#16
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What code shows for you?
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#17
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Take out the maf and give it a good cleaning with MAF Cleaner. If that helps, replace the MAF.
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#18
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Check the female MAF terminals and make sure they are tight.
I have also seen problems where the connection breaks right in the MAF connector for one common wire as well. OBDII tool with Live/Realtime data, watch Intake Air Temp and/or MAF reading and wiggle the wiring and see if the signals drop out at all. In the I6 engines also sometimes see the MAF wiring break near the throttle body junction box. Rarely is this type of problem going to be the MAF. |
#19
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MAF has been cleaned few times already and the connections look good but i havent traced the wires to the TB, i should do that. So far i replaced the air intake temp sensor and the fuel injection pressure sensor and still getting the same codes after driving 10 miles or so.
Here is what im getting: 4BC2 - Air mass sensor 4BC6 - Intake frequency too low 4831 - Intake air temp sensor
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2011 35d |
#20
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Lets start with basic facts. Confirm year, model and engine. I see something in your signature line, however, I never want to assume anything as often people have multiple cars or have an outdated signature. You are using some sort of BMW tool to gather codes. What tool are you using? Do you have Freeze Frame info? What about Live/Realtime data? HIGHLY suggest you get an OBDII smart phone App and interface, these are FAR more suited for driveability troubleshooting. Get an OBDII smart phone/tablet App and interface, typically $30 or less. These Apps are usually best for drivability issues and they support Emission Readiness Monitor Status, Freeze Frame and Live/Realtime data. They are also great for Logging data for review after the car has been driven and can really help find unusual problems. Android - Touch Scan for $5.00 and ELM327 OBDII to Bluetooth interface. iProduct - OBD Fusion for $9.99 and ELM327 OBDII to Wifi interface. Some people prefer to have an extension cable to keep the interface away from their feet. Something like these cables are often of interested: Amazon.com: ASSEM® OBD-II OBD2 16-Pin Male to Female Diagnostic Extension Cable 100cm: Automotive Amazon.com: Diageng OBDII Extension Cable, 5ft (144201): Automotive I usually suggest getting the OBDII interfaces from Amazon if you are located in the US/North America. Make sure you choose an interface that indicates that the order will be "Fulfilled by Amazon" otherwise you may be waiting for WEEKS for an interface to arrive from Asia. Ebay is another option, but pay attention where the interface will be shipped from, again weeks for an interface from Asia, so if you can wait and want to try to save some money, go for it, but if you need an interface soon, choose wisely. |
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