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  #1  
Old 11-22-2014, 07:17 PM
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07 3,0d diesel with bad injector

Hi there,

I have a 07 X5 E70 which I just bought a few weeks ago, unfortunately without warranty
Now the car will stop the engine about 3-20 seconds after it was started. With the DIS i can see that it reports codes:
4450 - Injector Cylinder 5- Activation
4453 - Injector Cylinder 5- Activation

If I turn off the engine myself faster than the ecu can do it then it won't report this error code. Only when the car shuts down itself it will display this error code. So I assume this is the problem.

I assume I need a new injector for cylinder 5? However would this cause the ecu to stop the engine? No limp mode or anything?

Anyone with experiences like this?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-22-2014, 08:20 PM
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Known issue caused by bad cowl design causing water to short injector number 5 harness

Error code 4B99 and 483D - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
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  #3  
Old 11-24-2014, 03:56 AM
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Thanks for the reply.
My car is the old type with the old M57 engine. So it's a Little different from the cars in the thread you linked.
However i measured the resistance of injector no. 5 and it was only 2,5 kOhm. All the others are 180kOhm, like DIS specifies. So I will replace the injector and hopefully everything will be ok. The injector didn't look to be corroded or anything like that, no signs of Water dammage. I just didn't think 1 bad injector would cause the engine to stop completely.
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  #4  
Old 11-24-2014, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerixen View Post
Thanks for the reply.
My car is the old type with the old M57 engine. So it's a Little different from the cars in the thread you linked.
However i measured the resistance of injector no. 5 and it was only 2,5 kOhm. All the others are 180kOhm, like DIS specifies. So I will replace the injector and hopefully everything will be ok. The injector didn't look to be corroded or anything like that, no signs of Water dammage. I just didn't think 1 bad injector would cause the engine to stop completely.
You have DIS so you're probably aware of this, but there is some sort of coding needed when replacing injectors... I've never done it, just read about it, but I think there is a code stamped on the injector that identify the flow and it has to be registered with the ECU.
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  #5  
Old 11-24-2014, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZetaTre View Post
You have DIS so you're probably aware of this, but there is some sort of coding needed when replacing injectors... I've never done it, just read about it, but I think there is a code stamped on the injector that identify the flow and it has to be registered with the ECU.
+1
Correct.
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2014, 04:19 AM
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Yeah I'm aware of this. It can be coded with both inpa and DIS. DIS is very user friendly, so I think I will use DIS. I used inpa to look at the injectors before I took the car apart.
I'm still waiting for the new injector to arrive but I will let you know when there is any news.
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2014, 09:51 AM
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Hope you have the mini slide hammer to remove the old injector
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2014, 09:56 AM
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hehe, I already got it out. I used one of the old nuts from the injector pipe and welded my own hammer. Came out after 6 hits
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:30 PM
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Here're some pretty funny videos on YouTube... They can get stuck good

How to NOT remove an injector bmw - YouTube

How to remove Injector BMW 530d - YouTube
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  #10  
Old 11-25-2014, 08:45 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerixen View Post
hehe, I already got it out. I used one of the old nuts from the injector pipe and welded my own hammer. Came out after 6 hits

Good times.

I once needed a special tool- a ~50mm hex 'wrench' that was open in the middle to allow a bolt inside to be turned. Hex holds the crankshaft pulley, loosen nut,,remove pulley. Easy..... Tool was $160. and 2+ weeks out. So I took some flat stock, cut pieces and welded up a hex onto a 3" flat bar. Bar acts as handle, grind hex to fit. Bored the center for the 1/2" drive for the socket. 200ftlbs or so

Put it on the crankshaft pulley, socket on the 24mm nut. Applied force....

the fact that the hex wasnt even, stressed the cast pulley on one of the faces...and fractured the hex shape. Now, even with the proper tool, I was screwed-. no more hex indentation. F F F F!

Well, what now? No going back now.... disconnected the battery, clamped a ground clamp onto the tool AND the pulley, and welded it right onto the pulley. Removed the pulley. $200 for a new pulley

OT for sure, but you guys would appreciate the story. One of those lessons you learn.
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