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#1
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YOU should not need to put any more effort...
If WE want to see this project pulled forward, maybe one of us will repackage your efforts and make it easier. That's all Im saying. (Been in a similar boat on an item on the E39M5 a few years ago- lining up machining, quotes, commitments, etc, etc. Total PITA.) Re-reading my comments I can see it being interpreted the as a critique of this 'offering' or opportunity. It most certainly is not. BTW, looks like that oil filter bracket could lift the car. ![]() A |
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#2
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Quote:
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#3
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Speaking for myself, I'm not looking for a "package" here. All I want is the plate with the elbow on it. From there I can either follow what was already done or go a slightly different route. If someone has already discussed its construction with a fabricator and they can do it then why wouldn't I take advantage of that? If all that comes from this thread is contact information for the fabricator, I will be happy.
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8/2011 X5 xDrive35d Sport, Black Sapphire Metallic, Black Nevada Leather, Fine Burr Walnut Trim 2/2001 M5, Jet Black, Exclusive Complete Black Walk Nappa Point Heritage Leather, Black Cubic Trim |
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#4
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Very interested. I noticed a gummy, tarry carbon buildup (CBU) on the EGR valve on my 35D when I was doing a thermostat change a few weeks ago. Cleaned it up fairly easily, but it makes me concerned that if my EGR valve has CBU then the intake manifold and valves may not be far behind. In the next few weeks I plan to investigate how much CBU I have. If it's significant then I'd put in a system like this to attempt to prevent further CBU. I know that CBU is thought to be less common on the 35ds as opposed to the 335ds, but I'd still like to do all I can to minimize the problem.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
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#5
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Quote:
To gain access I had to remove the EGR valve and the throttle plate. Fired up the car but without the EGR valve it was way too loud to keep it running at the 2K RPM required and I didn't want to smell all the soot and exhaust. It takes a good 30 minutes to empty out the bottle. I then went ahead and reinstalled the EGR valve, but left the connector unplugged to the valve would stay close. Much better. Anyway... If you ever remove the EGR to clean it you will notice that the intake side is gummy, tarry, oily gunk. The opposite side (before the valve, where it connects to the cooler) it has soot but it's a thin layer that wipes clean with your finger. That's how I got to think that all the CBU you read it is not because the EGR is a crappy system. The crappy system is the CCV that lets all that oil through which then mixes with the soot from the EGR and makes a mess. You may have seen how much oil I collected in the first 2,000 miles when I was draining it. I did recently removed the charge pipe but I couldn't get a clear view of the EGR since the stiffening bar is in the way, but I went in with my finger and it's clean and dry to the touch. Next oil change I plan to grab another bottle of the Liqui Moly and clean it again. The stuff melts the tar away; it did on the EGR when I sprayed it on it, so it probably did something in the intake and valves. And don't pay attention to all the non sense you read about chunks getting loose or clogging up the DPF. I had the DIS running while doing it and the DPF pressure was totally unaffected. 20K miles after my DPF is still totally fine. And as far as chunks coming loose that also is nonesense: the spray comes out very slow (like I said, took me 30 minutes to empty the bottle) it does not penetrating but slowly melts away the tar from the surface down. All those who say this nonesense are people who have never seen the tar in the intake and don't know how stubborn that stuff is. Does that stuff do magic? Probably not. Will this remove tar 1 inch thick? No. Will it melt some off? Perhaps. Did it clean my EGR? Yes. I made it part of my maintenance routine. That's a long preamble, but that's sort of why I got here. |
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