what options do I have?

[obiparis]

Hi,
I have a 02 X5 4.4i with NO NAV, NO DSP, NO CD CHANGER. Production date is 08/2002. I have a Ipod Nano. It seems like I need to upgrade the radio unit to 03+ if I want to use Aux input. After some research here, it seems like Icelink is the way to go.

We also have a 99 540i with DSP. I also want to play IPOD on this car sometimes. I like to flexibility of using the FM transmitter so that I can use the Ipod on any car. but sound quality sucks.

Here are my questions:

1. I don't like the sound quality on the X5 and may eventually upgrade. Should I still go for Icelink now or wait after the upgrade?

2. If I want to use the Ipod on both cars without the FM module, I'll need two Icelinks? Do I have any other options in terms of flexibility?

3. I drove the new 530xi last week. I like its sound quality. I'm not an audiophile. What do you guys suggest for the audio upgrade on my X5?

Thanks in advance.

[Wagner]

1) If you plan on upgrading the stereo system, don't bother with the Icelink on the X5 IMO.

2) Pretty sure you need two.

3) Not sure why you're mentioning the 530xi, but anyway, depends on what you want out of the stereo (highs/lows/mids) what are you looking for in the sound system?

[el_duderino]

OK, here's my professional recommendations:

1) You can get great sound in the X5 while keeping the OEM HU. The Icelink works with the OEM HU.

2) Get two Icelinks and one DSP kit for the E39. It's worth it. Nothing else even comes close for BMWs.

3) I am pretty darned good at invisible X5 audio upgrades.

Level one is to upgrade the front speakers and get a 2-channel amp for the front only, retaining the OEM speakers in the rear doors. For something worth doing, you are looking at about $500-850-1250 in gear (depending on gear - that's DLS in the middle and Dynaudio at the top) and about $250-300 in installation by a shop that OUGHT to be taking your car apart.

Level two a is the above plus a 3 or 4-channel amp, and an 8" or 10" sub hidden in the passenger rear side compartment. That bumps you to $800-1200-2000 in gear (similar progression) and $750-1000 installation and fiberglass fab charges from a pro shop (hidden everything).

Level two b is a four channel amp and new front and rear door speakers. $750 in gear for good stuff worth upgrading to, $300-400 installation.

Level three is front, rear, sub. Hard to do for less than $2K with stuff that's worth buying, figure somewhere between $2500 and $5500 installed depending on the level of gear you select.

The best sound for the money is 2A. 3 doesn't sound better than 2A, but it sounds louder (depending).

[Mindfull]

That's an awsome post! Must be why they call ya... El DUderino. Really Tho, very good susmmary of options for folks like me just starting to look into an audio upgrade, but not wanting to overhaul the whole ride.
Thx. Mindfull

[obiparis]

thanks a lot, guys.

el_duderino, if I go with option 2a, what brand/kind of amp/speaker/sub would you suggest?

[el_duderino]

I put the tweeters in the dash where the mids were, the 6.5 in the bottom of the door, and I don't even remove the door tweets - just disconnect them at the amp end.

We use a lot of DLS amps and speakers, Zapco amps, and avincar speakers (our house drivers we source from various Euro and Asian OEM makers - we don't own a factory : ) For rear speakers we are now doing Morel point source coaxials...

The basic speakers in the estimate were our avincar 6.5 and tweeter - a set that was well reviewed by a forum member some time ago - and an avincar 8" sub that works in 0.3 cf and is very shallow. We would use a DLS Classic 50w x 4 amp.

My favorite component speakers for the money right now are the DLS UP6. Retail on these is around $450 a set. They have a long-throw 6.5 midbass with a 2" voice coil and a neodymium magnet that keeps the overall midbass driver small enough to fit anywhere. The tweeter plays way low, has a very low mechanical resonance frequency, and elevates the vocals into the windshield very well. These were in the middle quote with a DLS Magnesium 10" sub or an Image Dynamics IDQ sub, and a DLS or Zapco Reference amp (they both have a Reference line...)



For an amp, right now the best fitting amps between the bottom of the load floor and the top of the spare cover are the DLS Reference and the Zapco Reference or Digital Reference. The DLS Classics will fit but the tops will rub the underside of the load floor and will mark it up - but I did use them in my lowest-cost quote.

The top quote was probably Dynaudio System 240 GT components up front and a DLS Magnesium, Morel, or ID 10" (depth is an issue or I'd use Iridium or IDMAX) and Zapco Digital Reference or DLS A-series amps.

Looking back, not sure how clear that is, but that's the general idea.

obiparis, where are you geographically?

[lbeats2001]

Question Is MB Quart a good speaker ? i am looking to upgrade By oem

[obiparis]

I'm in Pasadena, CA.

[lbeats2001]

Ok My B

[el_duderino]

Originally Posted by lbeats2001

Question Is MB Quart a good speaker ? i am looking to upgrade By oem

OK, but their metal tweeters are fatiguing at times and they usually have high xover points which don't elevate the image the way I described above.

But if you want to upgrade that way BSW has kits... and they're an authorized vendor