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  #101  
Old 11-16-2006, 03:15 AM
aus aus is offline
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Brad, check out the JL thread in the GB section. It's a free for all now.
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2003 4.6is, Saphire Black on Black with Aluminum trim, Comfot Seats, Loading floor, Nav, TVonNav, Focal Utopia's in front, with Rainbow's in back, Helix 5 channel amp. ACS pedals, Aluminum steering wheel trim, X-pipe
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  #102  
Old 11-16-2006, 02:28 PM
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Any updates on the brackets?
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2001 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Current 2017-
Aftermarket: Dinan Tunes/Camber Plates/Strutbar, KW coilovers, 22" ACS wheels, Eibach F+R swaybars, Thayer Camber+Toe bars, Stoptech F+R BBK, Audison/JL Audio/Critical Mass Audio, Eisenmann Exhaust
OEM: LCI Conversion, Running Boards, Euro Headlights, Lemans flares, 4.8IS F+R bumpers w/ flares, 20" Style 214 wheels, Imola Red interior retrofit, LCI Heated Wheel

2002 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Retired 2002-2010
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  #103  
Old 11-16-2006, 02:53 PM
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Stealthbox Group buy Close (I hope)

Guys,

I originally assigned 25 forms within 24 hours. Since yesterday, I reassigned additional 8 forms. I hope enough forms will be processed to complete all 25 group buy orders. That is why at this time, I will not issue any more forms and disappoint anyone who does not make it.

I hope this is the last time you hear from me on this matter.

Ivan.
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  #104  
Old 11-18-2006, 03:01 AM
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Sub w/ Bracket shipping

I spoke with JL today. I was number four and sent my order in within two days. They said that mine was shipping today with the additional bracket. Since I live in San Diego I guess it will be a week, but will update everyone once I get it installed. Thanks Ivan!!

-CTM
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  #105  
Old 11-18-2006, 03:12 AM
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That's great to hear, hopefully I'll get mine soon as well.
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2001 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Current 2017-
Aftermarket: Dinan Tunes/Camber Plates/Strutbar, KW coilovers, 22" ACS wheels, Eibach F+R swaybars, Thayer Camber+Toe bars, Stoptech F+R BBK, Audison/JL Audio/Critical Mass Audio, Eisenmann Exhaust
OEM: LCI Conversion, Running Boards, Euro Headlights, Lemans flares, 4.8IS F+R bumpers w/ flares, 20" Style 214 wheels, Imola Red interior retrofit, LCI Heated Wheel

2002 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Retired 2002-2010
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  #106  
Old 11-20-2006, 01:13 PM
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One thing to keep in mind. Once you modify the factory panel in order to install the sub. IT WILL RATTLE. I am going to send a message to JL today about it in hopes that they will provide a solution with their next batch.
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  #107  
Old 11-20-2006, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpatzer
One thing to keep in mind. Once you modify the factory panel in order to install the sub. IT WILL RATTLE. I am going to send a message to JL today about it in hopes that they will provide a solution with their next batch.
Did you happen to get an installation guide, and what's needed to do the install? Just curious if I'll be able to do it myself, I'm just worried about tapping into the OEM headunit.
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2001 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Current 2017-
Aftermarket: Dinan Tunes/Camber Plates/Strutbar, KW coilovers, 22" ACS wheels, Eibach F+R swaybars, Thayer Camber+Toe bars, Stoptech F+R BBK, Audison/JL Audio/Critical Mass Audio, Eisenmann Exhaust
OEM: LCI Conversion, Running Boards, Euro Headlights, Lemans flares, 4.8IS F+R bumpers w/ flares, 20" Style 214 wheels, Imola Red interior retrofit, LCI Heated Wheel

2002 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Retired 2002-2010
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  #108  
Old 11-20-2006, 02:19 PM
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Yes, it did come with a guide, very easy to follow, though for the most part I did not need it.

You don't have to tap into the oem head unit. You can get your sound source at the subwoofer, by tapping into the wires that feed the factory sub. If you didn't have a factory sub you will need to go to the factory amp. They all should have one. There are quite a few articles on this site as to where to get the proper wires you will need. All you need for the install of the sub is included with the sub. For the amp you will need to buy an amp install kit.

If you are nervous still, I highly recommend paying an MECP certified installer a couple of bucks to put it in ($100.00) should cover box and amp if not less.
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  #109  
Old 11-20-2006, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpatzer
Yes, it did come with a guide, very easy to follow, though for the most part I did not need it.

You don't have to tap into the oem head unit. You can get your sound source at the subwoofer, by tapping into the wires that feed the factory sub. If you didn't have a factory sub you will need to go to the factory amp. They all should have one. There are quite a few articles on this site as to where to get the proper wires you will need. All you need for the install of the sub is included with the sub. For the amp you will need to buy an amp install kit.

If you are nervous still, I highly recommend paying an MECP certified installer a couple of bucks to put it in ($100.00) should cover box and amp if not less.
My local audio shops have said it could range from $185 - $400 with parts/install/labor. When I get the JL stuff, I'll show them the guide, and hopefully save some loot.

Oh, and I don't have the DSP system.

Thanks for your help.
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2001 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Current 2017-
Aftermarket: Dinan Tunes/Camber Plates/Strutbar, KW coilovers, 22" ACS wheels, Eibach F+R swaybars, Thayer Camber+Toe bars, Stoptech F+R BBK, Audison/JL Audio/Critical Mass Audio, Eisenmann Exhaust
OEM: LCI Conversion, Running Boards, Euro Headlights, Lemans flares, 4.8IS F+R bumpers w/ flares, 20" Style 214 wheels, Imola Red interior retrofit, LCI Heated Wheel

2002 Topaz Blue X5 3.0i Retired 2002-2010
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  #110  
Old 11-20-2006, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpatzer
One thing to keep in mind. Once you modify the factory panel in order to install the sub. IT WILL RATTLE. I am going to send a message to JL today about it in hopes that they will provide a solution with their next batch.
So what did you do? Mine also rattled. I only assume due to too much air movement. I figured the only way to rid this problem without modifing the panel was to find a way to block the air movement or allow it to pass through. This is part of the reason why I cut a hole in the panel and installed a grille. No rattling as well as the sub firing into the cabin all adds up to making this sound so much better than keeping the panel one solid piece blocking the sub and separating the cabin area from where the sub is. Keeping the panel solid restricts less than subs being in a trunk of a car having to push through a back seat, but more than needs to be in this set up. Opening this up does make a lot of difference, naturally. Normally you won't be able to see through the grille but I had the flash on when I snapped this picture.


Last edited by chusteveb; 11-20-2006 at 02:54 PM.
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