JL audio stealthbox

buschy · #1 11-17-2006, 07:02 PM

Ok I put in my stealthbox today, and since I dont feel lik putting in the amp yet, cause I dont feel like splicing RCA's and buying converters or whatever I got to do. I throw the wires in from the old connector to see how the sub will sound. holy crap, WHat they hell did I buy an amp for. ITs absoulutly not needed, anyone want to buy a jl amp brand new?

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ncx · #2 11-17-2006, 07:45 PM

Are you serious? You got sufficient, loud sub bass with the OEM amp? How? That is very surprising since the JL sub is not efficient (84dB) and the amp, at max volume, is below the minimum RMS for that driver. And it's a sealed box which doesn't help higher dB.

cue03 · #3 11-17-2006, 07:52 PM

Oh do tell more. Interesting. I was thinking the same thing as NCX.

Curtis

buschy · #4 11-17-2006, 07:59 PM

well I dont know sh^^ sounded good to me. I believe that with the amp it will be much better sound clarity etc, but for adding bass it sound great. imagine your staock system with real lows instead of the crap stuff.
and by the way I have the dsp with the crappy 5 inch speakers. or had.
I am going to put the amp in tomorrow and see what the soudn difference is will update after.

buschy · #5 11-17-2006, 08:03 PM

another comment, I said the amp is not needed in the first post and what I am saying is that the bass prduced at this point without the amp is definatly sufficient for the rest of the stock system. I am not a expert or anything but I like my mustic to sound good. I am thinking with the amp the bass will be gheto. but with adjustments sound quality may be inproved but not sure if it will be enough to jsutify having the amp. we will see.
oh I cranked it up and my son was down the street and he was like DAd that sounds great, I could here the entire sond and the bass, its was not like the boom chang chang etc that you hear at the red lights. he was impressed. I thought it was pretty funny that he recognized clarity vs gheto

cue03 · #6 11-17-2006, 08:12 PM

I am very interested to hear what you think after you connect up the amp.

Curtis

ncx · #7 11-17-2006, 08:39 PM

Keep in mind your factory amp is configured for an 8ohm load for the subs. You are connecting a single 4ohm driver to the factory amp. Depending on the amp's design, cutting the impedance in half by connecting a 4ohm sub is essentially causing the OEM amp to attempt to put out twice the current. You will have to listen and decide if there is noticeable distortion when you crank it, or if heat becomes an issue with the factory amp. I'll have to bypass my big amp tomorrow and connect it to the OEM amp just to hear what you are hearing.

Honestly, I am surprised the factory amp can even move the cone on that JL.

buschy · #8 11-17-2006, 08:58 PM

ncx let me know what you think when you bypass, its actually pumping out some bass believe it or not, let us know what you find out, and when I hook the amp I will compare.

ncx · #9 11-17-2006, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buschy

ncx let me know what you think when you bypass, its actually pumping out some bass believe it or not, let us know what you find out, and when I hook the amp I will compare.

Will do

alpac · #10 11-18-2006, 12:52 AM

As NCX said the factory amp is designed for 8ohm speakers. The lower the impedance of the speaker, the closer to a short circuit it is for your amplifier. Also it is important to know that the impedance of a speaker changes with frequency. All of that to say that the speaker may says 4ohm (which is only an average rating) but it may drop half of this for low frequencyand you may end up blowing your amp.

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