Subwoofer Install

[TheTallMan]

Hello- first post. I just purchased a 2004 4.4i that I am very happy with. It has NAV and premium sound. I want to upgrade the audio with a subwoofer.

I spent part of the weekend reading things on this site- there is a very good article from alpac that helps with my plans. Also started to look around in the vehicle rear to see where everything is. I just have a few more or less basic questions, as a novice installer- please bear with:

- Instructions I have seen say that you should tap into the 15 pin connector wires (for DSP systems). I am wondering what exactly I am tapping into (what are those wires)? Are those the balanced output lines from the head unit, or outputs to a speaker, or what? I assume they are speaker outputs since you can take them directly to speaker inputs on an amp, but won't the level be too high, because they'd already be coming from the BMW amp? The wires on that connector look pretty thick compared to normal speaker wires.

- Can I use any aftermarket amp that has "speaker level inputs", or must it be a JL Audio or Zapco that is claiming to support balanced inputs? I guess I can also use a line converter (LOC), any ones recommended? Is that the better approach, going to RCA via LOC?

- I've seen comments that say there is a good place to tap power, in a green box down where the spare is. I didn't see that, only a blue box- I assume that is it, I opened it and it has taps labeled 75, 100, 50, etc. Lots of heavy guage red wire in and out...one of the taps labeled 50 is open, so I guess I can use that + a fuse in-line matched to my amps rating (probably 30-40 amps)?

- Is there a line from the head unit for turning the amp on only when the head unit is on? Or must I use a random switch 12v line (I think I found one in the compartment where the DVD player is)?

- in front of where the battery sits, there is a silver box somewhat off to the left. Many wires to it. Is this related to the audio, an amp of some kind? Or is the black unit in the rear left compartment both the "DSP" and the "Amp"?

I already have an amp and sub from my old car, just need to wire it.

Also wondering where I can get those neat wire taps. I found them on line, but wanted to just go to a store to get them.

Thanks!
TTM

[GiRARDsays]

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/s...ctory-amp.html

[TheTallMan]

Hi- I've read the install link several times, my questions are little more specific/not answered there. The questions come after reading it- unless I missed something.

Thanks!
TTM

[x5GuyInLA]

:xoutpost:

I believe that you can use any amp that has speaker level inputs w/o a LOC. For the 15 pin connector, 4 of those wires are for your speaker level out to get the signal to your amp. If your amp has these outs, it should be able to handle the input from those wires. Not sure if there is a remote wire coming from the head unit, but some amps have a signal detection circuit that detects when there is signal going to your speaker level inputs, so you might not need a remote. I didn't do the install myself, but I'll check to see where they tapped the remote wire (even though they probably didn't need to do that). That box with all the red wires coming out is where I would recommend tapping for power. Don't know what the silver box is, but your dsp amp is in the left compartment under the nav and changer location. I think you should be able to get the taps at radio shack, but not sure.

[GiRARDsays]

This is pulled from that same DIY regarding the subwoofer install. Specifically, where the guy tapped for a remote turn on lead. I tapped the same wire and mine works just fine.

Picture 2 shows the (+12v) remote 'turn-on' source connector where I got the remote on/off +12v. I found the connector (shown on the picture) somewhere under the CD changer. I tested all the wires with a voltmeter and found one which worked with the ignition. Not sure if you will have a similar connector in yours. Use a voltmeter to check which of the wires is a +12v connected to the ignition. To prevent any damage you should always use a voltmeter and ohmmeter to double check all wirings before making the connections.


picture 2

As far as not needing a remote turn on while using the speaker level input on your amp, I'm not quite sure. Some amps don't require a remote turn on when using speaker level inputs. Some do. The best thing to do is double-check with the tech-line for the brand of amp you have and they can probably tell you for sure if you'll need a remote turn on for your amp or not while using the speaker level input route.

[TheTallMan]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I spent part of Monday to install my subs, pretty much following the "how to add a subwoofer" directions. The only issue I had was that I needed a metric nut (for connecting power to the distribution block), and had to go to a couple of stores to find that. Else everything went pretty smooth, which is saying a lot for an amateur installer (those afraid to try- there is hope, if I can do it LOL).

BTW- Peripheral Electronics has a new LOC (SVENR) that integrates an auto turn on wire. So I didn't have to tap a 12 volt switched line. You do have to supply it with 12v. I needed a LOC anyway (my amp doesn't have speaker level inputs), and the turn on line was a nice to have bonus . It appears to only come on when there is audio present, but I need to look at it's operation a little more. It was like $20.

Had to toy with the LOC gain settings, my amplifier gain setting, and equalizer settings (both the in dash unit and the mp3 player I have attached to it via the aux input). Basically had to turn the gains pretty low, and set the equalizer/tone setting to the lower bass settings, since the subs, with about 70 W RMS powering each of two 8"ers, dominated the sound. But now the sound "fits" together and I can "control" the subs to some degree with the bass tone control. I may invest in an amp with a remote bass level control, I strongly suggest getting one of these if you are buying a new amp for a similar project.

I wonder if I might have had more control had I tapped some other lines that are influenced by the fader (fading doesn't seem to effect the bass level, that was the setup I had in my previous vehicle, which was quite nice). But probably the other lines are crossed over such that they don't contain the needed frequencies. It anyway sounds quite good!

I mounted the amp vertically right on the outside of the cover panel where the nav, etc are located (my amp has a footprint about the size of a sheet of paper, so it fits on there pretty well). The subs are both sitting to the back of the cargo area (not a stealth install at all), so I still have a much of my cargo room. I can re-arrange later, or even move to a more 'tailored/stelath' sub box. That will be easy with all the wiring already done. Thanks again

[alpac]

Originally Posted by TheTallMan

Thanks for the suggestions.

I spent part of Monday to install my subs, pretty much following the "how to add a subwoofer" directions. The only issue I had was that I needed a metric nut (for connecting power to the distribution block), and had to go to a couple of stores to find that. Else everything went pretty smooth, which is saying a lot for an amateur installer (those afraid to try- there is hope, if I can do it LOL).

BTW- Peripheral Electronics has a new LOC (SVENR) that integrates an auto turn on wire. So I didn't have to tap a 12 volt switched line. You do have to supply it with 12v. I needed a LOC anyway (my amp doesn't have speaker level inputs), and the turn on line was a nice to have bonus . It appears to only come on when there is audio present, but I need to look at it's operation a little more. It was like $20.

Had to toy with the LOC gain settings, my amplifier gain setting, and equalizer settings (both the in dash unit and the mp3 player I have attached to it via the aux input). Basically had to turn the gains pretty low, and set the equalizer/tone setting to the lower bass settings, since the subs, with about 70 W RMS powering each of two 8"ers, dominated the sound. But now the sound "fits" together and I can "control" the subs to some degree with the bass tone control. I may invest in an amp with a remote bass level control, I strongly suggest getting one of these if you are buying a new amp for a similar project.

I wonder if I might have had more control had I tapped some other lines that are influenced by the fader (fading doesn't seem to effect the bass level, that was the setup I had in my previous vehicle, which was quite nice). But probably the other lines are crossed over such that they don't contain the needed frequencies. It anyway sounds quite good!

I mounted the amp vertically right on the outside of the cover panel where the nav, etc are located (my amp has a footprint about the size of a sheet of paper, so it fits on there pretty well). The subs are both sitting to the back of the cargo area (not a stealth install at all), so I still have a much of my cargo room. I can re-arrange later, or even move to a more 'tailored/stelath' sub box. That will be easy with all the wiring already done. Thanks again

Great job